El Mantón de Manila. Examen morfológico, iconográfico y material, en pro de su conservación y restauración. Criterios y metodología de intervención para su consolidación

[EN] As it happens with any wearable accessory, Manila embroidered silk shawls usually evidence pathologies that have mainly to do with mechanical weakness and failure. This research emerged after studying several Manila shawls that needed treatment. Having to consolidate and reinforce them to re-establish their functionality, an auxiliary textile had to be chosen. Consolidation is one of the most delicate and decisive process to preserve any fabric. The addition of new sewed fabrics to the original textiles is a common practice nowadays to consolidate, reinforce and compensate losses in historic textiles. Results obtained from this research focus on the physic-chemical characterization of consolidation textile. Data from specimens subjected to artificial accelerated ageing (dry and wet heat and UV radiation) are also shown. A multimethod approach is proposed combining microscopy (LM and SEM/EDX) and spectroscopy (reflectance, FTIR) techniques and traction tensile tests in order to characterize the overall behavior of their before/after ageing processes. Tensile tests were run in weft and warp directions. Comparison of IR spectra obtained in ATR mode from different areas of the textile has evidenced that the yellowness and oxidation. About LM and SEM examination enabled the identification of empty fiber and micro fissures in different areas on the surface. Other purpose of this study is to establish an optimum method for the consolidation of 'Manila shawls'. Transparency and strength are common requirements for any consolidation process. This research will show results obtained with Chinese crepe as base fabric and two types of techniques: couching and basting. Specimens were prepared with different fabrics in both weft and warp directions and were sowed uniformly in order to minimize differences among samples. Specimens were subjected to tensile tests with a dynamometer. Results obtained allowed to establish the suitability of each consolidation method in this specific case. [ES] Los mantones de Manila tienen como material constituyente la seda presentando las patologías de deterioro de esta, como son debilidad mecánica y degradación natural y debido al uso. Esta investigación surgió después de estudiar varios mantones de Manila que necesitaban tratamiento de consolidación, tener que consolidar y restablecer su funcionalidad, fue lo que llevo al estudio de soluciones y métodos de actuación. La consolidación es uno de los procesos más delicados y decisivos