The use of hydroxy acids on the skin: characteristics of C8-lipohydroxy acid

Summary The hydroxy acids are widely used in skin creams because of their exfoliating and rejuvenating effect on photoaged skin. As a member of this family, the salicylic acid derivative known in the literature as 2‐hydroxy‐5‐octanoyl benzoic acid or β‐lipohydroxy acid has also been proposed as an exfoliant and as a treatment of photoaged skin and acne. This article reviews the effects of the hydroxy acids and compares them to those of the salicylic acid derivative. We propose the name C8‐lipohydroxy acid (C8‐LHA) for this derivative to differentiate it from other related compounds. The lipophilic nature of C8‐LHA and its relatively slow penetration in the skin afford it an exfoliating effect that is efficient at low concentrations. It appears to have antimicrobial, anti‐inflammatory, and anticomedogenic properties, which make it effective against acne. Its antifungal and exfoliating properties are also likely to prove useful in combating dandruff.