A note on wave-induced set-up by obliquely incident waves
Water level variations due to obliquely incident, shoaling and breaking waves on a plane sloping beach were discussed recently by Hsu et al. (Coastal Engineering, 53, 865–877, 2006). An inconsistency in this work with respect to the set-down, and its implications to circulation offshore of the break...
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| Veröffentlicht in: | Coastal engineering (Amsterdam) 2011-08, Vol.58 (8), p.812-814 |
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| container_title | Coastal engineering (Amsterdam) |
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| creator | Janssen, T.T. Jones, I.S. |
| description | Water level variations due to obliquely incident, shoaling and breaking waves on a plane sloping beach were discussed recently by Hsu et al. (Coastal Engineering, 53, 865–877, 2006). An inconsistency in this work with respect to the set-down, and its implications to circulation offshore of the breakpoint, was pointed out by Shi and Kirby (Coastal Engineering, 55, 1246 – 1249, 2008). Here we extend that discussion to include the surfzone momentum balance and wave-induced set-up. We discuss some remaining inconsistencies in the approximation of the surfzone momentum balance, derive and present a consistent approximation, and validate the new approximation through numerical comparison to a more exact model. |
| doi_str_mv | 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2011.04.004 |
| format | Article |
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| ispartof | Coastal engineering (Amsterdam), 2011-08, Vol.58 (8), p.812-814 |
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| language | eng |
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| source | Access via ScienceDirect (Elsevier) |
| subjects | Approximation Circulation Coastal engineering Earth sciences Earth, ocean, space Exact sciences and technology Geomorphology, landform evolution Incident waves Marine and continental quaternary Mathematical analysis Mathematical models Oblique incidence Offshore Offshore structures Radiation stress Surficial geology Wave-induced set-up |
| title | A note on wave-induced set-up by obliquely incident waves |
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