A note on wave-induced set-up by obliquely incident waves
Water level variations due to obliquely incident, shoaling and breaking waves on a plane sloping beach were discussed recently by Hsu et al. (Coastal Engineering, 53, 865–877, 2006). An inconsistency in this work with respect to the set-down, and its implications to circulation offshore of the break...
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Veröffentlicht in: | Coastal engineering (Amsterdam) 2011-08, Vol.58 (8), p.812-814 |
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Hauptverfasser: | , |
Format: | Artikel |
Sprache: | eng |
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Online-Zugang: | Volltext |
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Zusammenfassung: | Water level variations due to obliquely incident, shoaling and breaking waves on a plane sloping beach were discussed recently by Hsu et al. (Coastal Engineering, 53, 865–877, 2006). An inconsistency in this work with respect to the set-down, and its implications to circulation offshore of the breakpoint, was pointed out by Shi and Kirby (Coastal Engineering, 55, 1246 – 1249, 2008). Here we extend that discussion to include the surfzone momentum balance and wave-induced set-up. We discuss some remaining inconsistencies in the approximation of the surfzone momentum balance, derive and present a consistent approximation, and validate the new approximation through numerical comparison to a more exact model. |
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ISSN: | 0378-3839 1872-7379 |
DOI: | 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2011.04.004 |