Enhanced delivery of cosmeceuticals by microdermabrasion

Summary Background Microdermabrasion (MDA) is one of the top five nonsurgical cosmetic procedures performed. It is a well‐established technology with widespread applications in the cosmetic industry. Aims To investigate the effects of MDA on skin and delivery of cosmeceuticals. Methods The alternation of skin structure post‐MDA was examined by histological sectioning and transepidermal water loss measurements. The effect of MDA treatment on skin permeation profiles of hydrophilic and lipophilic molecules was investigated by laser scanning confocal microscopy and in vitro permeation studies. Results Confocal images indicated different absorption profiles and permeation depths for hydrophilic and lipophilic molecules. Microdermabrasion enhanced the transdermal delivery of nicotinamide, the model hydrophilic compound employed. On the other hand, permeation of retinol, the model lipophilic compound, did not improve after treatment with MDA. When treated with 20 passes, the skin recovered from MDA induced changes in 4 days. Conclusion Permeation of cosmeceuticals into skin was found to be affected by their lipophilicity. Application of skin care products post‐MDA therapy may be promising to improve their dermal uptake.