Investigation of natural dyes occurring in historical Coptic textiles by high-performance liquid chromatography with UV–Vis and mass spectrometric detection

Liquid chromatography (LC) combined with ultraviolet–visible (UV–Vis) and mass spectrometric (MS) detection was utilized to study the chemical components present in extracts of natural dyes originating from fiber samples obtained from Coptic textiles from Early Christian Art Collection of National Museum in Warsaw. Chromatographic retention, ionization, UV–Vis and mass spectra of twenty selected dye compounds of flavanoid-, anthraquinone- and indigo-types were studied. Most of the investigated compounds could be ionized by positive and negative ion electrospray ionization. Difficulties with the ionization by electrospray were experienced for indigotin and brominated indigotins, but these were ionized by atmospheric pressure chemical ionization. Mass spectrometric detection, utilizing different scanning modes of a triple quadrupole mass spectrometer, combined with the UV–Vis detection was demonstrated to be a powerful approach to detection and identification of dyes in the extracts of archeological textiles. Using this approach the following compounds were identified in the extracts of Coptic textiles: luteolin, apigenin, rhamnetin, kaempferol, alizarin, purpurin, xanthopurpurin, monochloroalizarin, indirubin, and so the type of dye that was utilized to dye the textiles could be identified. Detection capabilities for several dye-type analytes were compared for the UV–Vis and mass spectrometric detection. The signal-to-noise ratios obtained for luteolin, apigenin, and rhamnetin were higher for the MS detection for most of the examined sample extracts. Purpurin, alizarin, and indirubin showed similar signal-to-noise ratios for UV–Vis and mass spectrometric detection.