Modeling of nonlinear surface gravity waves in shallow water with regard to dispersion
This report considers the problem of the propagation of nonlinear surface gravity waves over shallow waters with regard to dispersion. By means of the semigraphical method proposed, the transformation of the profile of nonlinear surface gravity waves is described. The profiles of surface gravity wav...
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Veröffentlicht in: | Doklady earth sciences 2009-12, Vol.429 (2), p.1605-1607 |
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Format: | Artikel |
Sprache: | eng |
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Online-Zugang: | Volltext |
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Zusammenfassung: | This report considers the problem of the propagation of nonlinear surface gravity waves over shallow waters with regard to dispersion. By means of the semigraphical method proposed, the transformation of the profile of nonlinear surface gravity waves is described. The profiles of surface gravity waves are presented for the stages of crest sharpening and front steepening, as well as the wave train disintegration caused by dispersion. |
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ISSN: | 1028-334X 1531-8354 |
DOI: | 10.1134/S1028334X09090414 |