Differential scanning calorimetry studies of sebum models

Human sebum is a mixture of triglycerides, fatty acids, wax esters, squalene, cholesterol, and cholesterol esters. P. acnes, a bacterium that is normally found on the skin, hydrolyzes certain triglycerides to fatty acids, thereby changing the sebum composition. The objective of this study was to exa...

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Veröffentlicht in:Journal of cosmetic science 2001-07, Vol.52 (4), p.211-224
Hauptverfasser: MOTWANI, Monica R, RHEIN, Linda D, ZATZ, Joel L
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Sprache:eng
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Zusammenfassung:Human sebum is a mixture of triglycerides, fatty acids, wax esters, squalene, cholesterol, and cholesterol esters. P. acnes, a bacterium that is normally found on the skin, hydrolyzes certain triglycerides to fatty acids, thereby changing the sebum composition. The objective of this study was to examine the physical state of a model sebum and the effect of variations in its composition on its physical properties including (a) the carbon chain length of the components, (b) the ratio of unsaturated to saturated components, and (c) the ratio of triglycerides to fatty acids. A model sebum mixture was prepared based on a composition reported in the literature and evaluated by differential scanning calorimetry (DSC). Since cholesterol and cholesterol esters contribute insignificantly to sebum composition, they were not included. Squalene was kept constant (13%), while the concentration of the rest of the components was varied. Variations of sebum were prepared by dissolving all components in a 3:1 chloroform-methanol mixture for uniformity. Subsequently the solvent was evaporated at room temperature. The samples were then analyzed using DSC. Four distinct endotherms (namely, Mp-1, Mp-2, Mp-3, and Mp-4) were observed between -50 degrees C and 100 degrees C. Mp-1 and Mp-2 occurred below 0 degrees C and were contributed by unsaturated components. Mp-3 and Mp-4, which represent the saturated components, occurred above 30 degrees C. Thus, at normal skin temperature (skin surface temperature is 32 degrees C), sebum contains both a solid and a liquid phase. All the transition temperatures increased with an increase in carbon chain length for the same ratio of unsaturation to saturation. A replacement of unsaturated components with corresponding saturated components led to a decrease in the transition temperatures for the former (Mp-1 and Mp-2) and an increase in the transition temperatures for the latter (Mp-3 and Mp-4). Replacement of triglycerides with corresponding fatty acids (mimicking the action of anaerobic bacteria) caused an increase in Mp-2 and a decrease in Mp-4. In all cases, the final melting temperature (Mp-4) was greater than the temperature of the human skin surface (32 degrees C); thus components contributing to these endotherms are still solids at skin temperature. All variations in the sebum model led to mixtures of solids and liquids at skin temperature. Considering a reduction in Mp-3 and/or Mp-4 to represent sebum "fluidization," it was achieved b
ISSN:1525-7886
2689-5153