Elastogenic potential and antisagging properties of a novel Murraya koenigii extract

Background The process by which functional elastic fibers are produced, namely elastogenesis, is complex and difficult to assess in vitro. Identifying efficient elasticity‐boosting ingredients thus represents a challenge. Aims The elasticity‐boosting properties of a novel extract of Murraya koenigii leafy stems were assessed in vitro in 3D culture models before being evaluated in human female volunteers. Methods Synthesis of elastic fiber related proteins was evaluated in a skin‐equivalent model. Using multiphoton microscopy, the structural organization of elastin deposits was studied within a scaffold‐free dermal microtissue. Biomechanical properties of the 3D microtissue were also measured by atomic force microscopy. In vivo, fringe‐projection and image analysis were used to evaluate nasogenian fold severity in a panel of Caucasian female volunteers. The impact of gravity on visible signs of facial aging was assessed by clinical scoring carried out alternatively in the supine and sitting positions. Results We showed the Murraya koenigii extract increased protein expressions of elastin and fibrillin‐1 in a 3D skin equivalent model. Using scaffold‐free dermal microtissue, we confirmed that Murraya koenigii extract allowed a proper and ordered network of elastin deposits and consequently improved tissue elasticity. Clinical data showed that a twice‐daily application for 98 days of the extract formulated at 1% allowed to visibly reduce nasogenian fold severity, jowl severity and to mitigate the impact of gravity on the facial signs of aging. Conclusion The newly discovered extract of Murraya koenigii leafy stems represents an innovative antiaging ingredient suited for elasticity‐boosting and antisagging claims.