Promotion of glyoxylic acid penetration into human hair by glycolic acid

Objective Glyoxylic acid (GA) is widely used as a straight perming agent for hair care products, however, advanced GA penetration‐enhancing agents are desired due to the peculiar odour and hair colour fading caused by the continuous use of GA products. Hence, it is important to develop a penetration...

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Veröffentlicht in:International journal of cosmetic science 2023-04, Vol.45 (2), p.246-254
Hauptverfasser: Uyama, Makoto, Okabe, Shinya, Kurashima, Takumi, Kurinobu, Rie, Takechi, Miwa, Yoshiba, Ryo, Miyoshi, Rina, Noda, Seigi, Kaneko, Mio, Ikemoto, Yuka, Takahara, Atsushi, Higaki, Yuji, Hama, Tetsuya
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Sprache:eng
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Zusammenfassung:Objective Glyoxylic acid (GA) is widely used as a straight perming agent for hair care products, however, advanced GA penetration‐enhancing agents are desired due to the peculiar odour and hair colour fading caused by the continuous use of GA products. Hence, it is important to develop a penetration‐enhancing agent that helps minimize the GA concentration. We have found that the combined use of GA and glycolic acid (GCA) has a strong hair straightening effect. Methods Straightening hair test was carried out to the evaluation of the effect of additives. Liquid chromatography‐mass spectrometry (LC/MS) was performed to quantify the GA penetration amount into human hair. Attenuated total reflection (ATR) Fourier transform‐infrared spectroscopy (FT‐IR) and FT‐IR microscope were implemented to estimate the localization of GA in the hair. Results Straightening hair tests indicated that the hair straightening effect by GA was enhanced by the presence of GCA. LC/MS results showed that the addition of GCA enhanced the amount of GA that penetrated human hair by about four times. ATR FT‐IR and FT‐IR microscope measurements indicated that GA was localized more in the innermost region of hair (medulla) than the cortex and cuticle. The GA accumulated in the medulla disappeared after a hair straightener treatment at 180°C due to the chemical reaction. Conclusions The GA penetration‐enhancing effect of GCA is worth investigating to reduce the GA concentration in products for more comfortable use. Résumé Objectif L’acide glyoxylique (AG) est largement utilisé en tant qu’agent de lissage pour les produits de soins capillaires. Cependant, des agents avancés améliorant la pénétration de l’AG sont souhaités en raison de l’odeur particulière et de la décoloration des cheveux causées par l’utilisation continue de produits à base d’AG. Il est donc important de mettre au point un agent améliorant la pénétration qui contribue à minimiser la concentration d’AG. Nous avons constaté que l’utilisation combinée de l’AG et de l’acide glycolique (AGC) a un fort effet lissant sur les cheveux. Méthodes Un test de lissage des cheveux a été effectué pour évaluer l’effet des additifs. Une chromatographie en phase liquide avec spectrométrie de masse (liquid chromatography‐mass spectrometry, LC/MS) a été réalisée pour quantifier le volume de pénétration de l’AG dans les cheveux humains. Une spectroscopie infrarouge à transformée de Fourier (Fourier transform‐infrared spectroscopy, FT‐IR) à réflex
ISSN:0142-5463
1468-2494
DOI:10.1111/ics.12838