Postcard: Naples

I can see by the traffic passing Celiento that a 2000 helmet law for riders of those ubiquitous mopeds, while obeyed by Italians from all points north, is still treated in Naples as optional. Entire families of four whiz by, squeezed on a scooter built for two, often with young, helmetless kids. It is a disquieting sight for even a Milanese or a Florentine, let alone a Northern European or an American, who wonders if this southern pocket of Europe somehow got left behind. Adding to the unease are picturesque streets in the historic center littered with trash as well as warnings from locals not to go out at night when purse snatchers and gang members reign. [Alfonso Celiento] does not believe that either the city's habitual skirting of the law or the Camorra culture of death is rooted in the economic hardship. "A culture of civility comes before any economic question," says Celiento. "It must start in families. The first time I find my son without a helmet, I'll simply take his mopedawav."