Ceramide NPs derived from natural oils of Korean traditional plants enhance skin barrier functions and stimulate expressions of genes for epidermal homeostasis

Background New ceramide (CER) NPs were prepared by linking fatty acids derived from oils of Korean traditional plants to phytosphingosine (PHS). The oils of Korean traditional plants were extracted from the seeds of Panax ginseng, Camellia sinensis, Glycine max napjakong, Glycine max seoritae, and Camellia japonica as sources of diverse fatty acids. Aims The aim of this study was to investigate signaling bioactivities of HP‐C. sinensis ceramide NP that was column purified to remove any residual PHS and to evaluate the skin barrier functions of the HP‐C. sinensis ceramide NP in human skin. Methods The expressions of genes related to epidermal differentiation were analyzed in vitro by qPCR. Human studies were also performed to determine the skin barrier functions with respect to TEWL and SC cohesion. Results The HP‐C. sinensis CER NP significantly enhanced the expressions of FLG, CASP14, and INV indicates that the signaling biological activities of oil‐derived ceramide NPs could be different depend on the natural oils. The control ceramide, C18‐CER NP, had no effect on the expression of the three genes. HP‐C. sinensis CER NP was selected for the in vivo human studies. Application of 0.5% HP‐C. sinensis CER NP cream stimulated significantly faster recovery of a disrupted skin barrier than that of the control C18‐CER NP. A significant enhancement of SC cohesion of the skin treated with 0.5% HP‐C. sinensis CER NP was also observed. Conclusion Taken all together, our results clearly demonstrate that HP‐C. sinensis CER NP, P. ginseng CER NP, and other oil‐derived CER NP could be a better choice for developing moisturizers to improve skin barrier function as they more closely mimic the endogenous CER composition of the actual human skin barrier.