Cultivation of human skin cells under physiological oxygen concentration modulates expression of skin significant genes and response to hydroxy acids

Physiological oxygen concentration (physioxia) ranges from 1 to 8% in human tissues while many researchers cultivate mammalian cells under an atmospheric concentration of 21% (hyperoxia). Oxygen is one of the significant gases which functions in human cells including energy production in mitochondria, metabolism in peroxidase, and transcription of various genes in company with HIF (Hypoxia-inducible factors) in the nucleus. Thus, mammalian cell culture should be deliberated on the oxygen concentration to mimic in vivo physiology. Here, we studied if the cultivation of human skin cells under physiological conditions could affect skin significant genes in barrier functions and dermal matrix formation. We further examined that some representative active ingredients in dermatology such as glycolic acid, gluconolactone, and salicylic acid work in different ways depending on the oxygen concentration. Taken together, we present the importance of oxygen concentration in skin cell culture for proper screening of novel ingredients as well as the mechanistic study of skin cell regulation. •Physiological oxygen concentration (physioxia) ranges from 1 to 8% in human tissues.•Cultivation of human skin cells in 2% O2 modulates skin significant genes.•The effect of hydroxy acids on skin cells depends on O2 concentration.