Assessment of an ex vivo irritation test performed on human skin explants and comparison of its results with those of a 24-/48-h human patch test for the evaluation of cosmetics

When developing new cosmetics, it is extremely important to consider the safety of consumers. Absence of potential irritancy is generally assessed using an OECD TG439 compliant Reconstructed Human Epidermis (RHE) systems and MTT assays, resulting in an irritant/not irritant classification. To gain insight into the irritancy of molecules/finished cosmetic products and to predict the outcome of irritation tests performed on subjects whatever their nature, we developed a test that uses skin explants and histological analysis. Results showed that this irritation test is sensitive enough to accurately and repeatably detect known irritants. If the diverse origin of the skin explants used led to variability in the histological alterations scored, the overall grading of irritancy is highly reproducible. Finally, when testing 120 non-alcoholic cosmetics of various galenic forms, comparison of data between the ex vivo irritation tests and of a 24-/48-h human patch test revealed a single false negative, very close to the limit, and a 10% false positive rate. It was not possible to calculate the sensitivity of the ex vivo irritation test; however, its specificity was 89.9% and its accuracy was 89.1%. Similar results, with a slightly higher false positive rate, were found when testing 49 alcoholic cosmetics. These values exceed the minimum requirements of OECD TG439. •We developed an irritation test using skin explants and histological analysis.•The test is sensitive enough to accurately and repeatably detect known irritants.•Despite diverse origin of explants, grading of irritancy is highly reproducible.•Comparison to human patch test, shows high specificity and accuracy.