Enhanced retinoid response by a combination of the vitamin A ester retinyl propionate with niacinamide and a flavonoid containing Ceratonia siliqua extract in retinoid responsive in vitro models

Objectives Retinoids have been used for decades as efficacious topical agents to treat photoaged skin. The purpose of our present research is to evaluate whether the activity of the vitamin A ester retinyl propionate (RP) can be enhanced by niacinamide (Nam) and a flavonoid containing Ceratonia sili...

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Veröffentlicht in:International journal of cosmetic science 2021-02, Vol.43 (1), p.102-106
Hauptverfasser: Lam, E.C.S., Li, R., Rodrigues, M.R., Vires, L., Adams, R.L., Sherrill, J.D., Oblong, J.E.
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Sprache:eng
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Zusammenfassung:Objectives Retinoids have been used for decades as efficacious topical agents to treat photoaged skin. The purpose of our present research is to evaluate whether the activity of the vitamin A ester retinyl propionate (RP) can be enhanced by niacinamide (Nam) and a flavonoid containing Ceratonia siliqua (CS) fruit extract in retinoid responsive in vitro models. Methods Retinyl propionate was tested alone and in combination with Nam and CS in an RARα reporter cell line for promoter activation and compared to trans‐retinoic acid (tRA) activation. These treatments were also tested in keratinocytes for gene expression profiling by qPCR using a panel of 40 retinoid responsive genes. Results tRA or RP elicited RARα reporter activation in a dose‐dependent manner. The combination of 0.5 μM or 2 μM RP with 10 mM Nam had a 56% and 95% signal increase compared to RP, respectively. The addition of 1% CS to 0.5 μM or 2 μM RP with 10 mM Nam elicited a further increase of 114% and 156%, respectively, over RP and Nam combinations. All retinoids elicited an increase in expression of 40 retinoid sensitive genes over control levels. Of the 40 genes, 27 were enhanced by either 0.1 μM RP or 0.5 μM RP with 10 mM Nam and 1% CS. Nam or CS had very modest activity in both models. Conclusion The combination of RP with Nam and CS showed a higher retinoid response than RP in two separate retinoid responsive in vitro models. We hypothesize Nam and CS enhances RP activity by modulating metabolism to tRA via increasing NAD+ pools and inhibiting reduction of retinal (RAL) back to retinol, respectively. The findings provide evidence that this combination may have enhanced efficacy for treating the appearance of photoaged skin. Abstrait Objectifs Les rétinoïdes sont utilisés depuis des décennies comme agents topiques efficaces pour traiter la peau photo‐âgée. Le but de notre recherche actuelle est d’évaluer si l’activité du propionate rétinyl ester de vitamine A (RP) peut être augmentée par le niacinamide (Nam) et un flavonoïde contenant un extrait de fruit de Ceratonia Siliqua (CS) dans les modèles in vitro sensibles aux rétinoïdes. Méthodes RP a été testé seul et en combinaison avec Nam et CS dans une ligne de cellule rapporteur de RARα pour l’activation du promoteur et par rapport à l’activation de l’acide transrétinoïque(tRA). Ces traitements ont également été testés dans les kératinocytes pour le profilage d’expression génique par qPCR à l’aide d’un panel de 40 gènes rétinoïdes sensibl
ISSN:0142-5463
1468-2494
DOI:10.1111/ics.12669