The anti‐ageing effects of a natural peptide discovered by artificial intelligence

Objective As skin ages, impaired extracellular matrix (ECM) protein synthesis and increased action of degradative enzymes manifest as atrophy, wrinkling and laxity. There is mounting evidence for the functional role of exogenous peptides across many areas, including in offsetting the effects of cuta...

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Veröffentlicht in:International journal of cosmetic science 2020-08, Vol.42 (4), p.388-398
Hauptverfasser: Kennedy, K., Cal, R., Casey, R., Lopez, C., Adelfio, A., Molloy, B., Wall, A.M., Holton, T.A., Khaldi, N.
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Sprache:eng
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Zusammenfassung:Objective As skin ages, impaired extracellular matrix (ECM) protein synthesis and increased action of degradative enzymes manifest as atrophy, wrinkling and laxity. There is mounting evidence for the functional role of exogenous peptides across many areas, including in offsetting the effects of cutaneous ageing. Here, using an artificial intelligence (AI) approach, we identified peptide RTE62G (pep_RTE62G), a naturally occurring, unmodified peptide with ECM stimulatory properties. The AI‐predicted anti‐ageing properties of pep_RTE62G were then validated through in vitro, ex vivo and proof of concept clinical testing. Methods A deep learning approach was applied to unlock pep_RTE62G from a plant source, Pisum sativum (pea). Cell culture assays of human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs) and keratinocytes (HaCaTs) were subsequently used to evaluate the in vitro effect of pep_RTE62G. Distinct activities such as cell proliferation and ECM protein production properties were determined by ELISA assays. Cell migration was assessed using a wound healing assay, while ECM protein synthesis and gene expression were analysed, respectively, by immunofluorescence microscopy and PCR. Immunohistochemistry of human skin explants was employed to further investigate the induction of ECM proteins by pep_RTE62G ex vivo. Finally, the clinical effect of pep_RTE626 was evaluated in a proof of concept 28‐day pilot study. Results In vitro testing confirmed that pep_RTE62G is an effective multi‐functional anti‐ageing ingredient. In HaCaTs, pep_RTE62G treatment significantly increases both cellular proliferation and migration. Similarly, in HDFs, pep_RTE62G consistently induced the neosynthesis of ECM protein elastin and collagen, effects that are upheld in human skin explants. Lastly, in our proof of concept clinical study, application of pep_RTE626 over 28 days demonstrated anti‐wrinkle and collagen stimulatory potential. Conclusion pep_RTE62G represents a natural, unmodified peptide with AI‐predicted and experimentally validated anti‐ageing properties. Our results affirm the utility of AI in the discovery of novel, functional topical ingredients. Résumé OBJECTIF À mesure que la peau vieillit, une altération de la synthèse des protéines de la matrice extracellulaire (ECM) et une action accrue des enzymes dégradantes se manifestent par une atrophie, des rides et un laxisme. Il existe de plus en plus de preuves du rôle fonctionnel des peptides exogènes dans de nombreux domaines, y compris pou
ISSN:0142-5463
1468-2494
DOI:10.1111/ics.12635