A unified two-parameter wave spectral model for a general sea state

Based on theoretical analysis and laboratory data, we proposed a unified two-parameter wave spectral model as $\phi(n) = \frac{\beta g^2}{n^m n_0^{5-m}} {\rm exp} \left\{-\frac{m}{4}\left(\frac{n_0}{n}\right)^4\right\}$ with β and m as functions of the internal parameter, the significant slope η of...

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Veröffentlicht in:Journal of fluid mechanics 1981-11, Vol.112 (1), p.203-224
Hauptverfasser: Huang, Norden E., Long, Steven R., Tung, Chi-Chao, Yuen, Yeli, Bliven, Larry F.
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Sprache:eng
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Zusammenfassung:Based on theoretical analysis and laboratory data, we proposed a unified two-parameter wave spectral model as $\phi(n) = \frac{\beta g^2}{n^m n_0^{5-m}} {\rm exp} \left\{-\frac{m}{4}\left(\frac{n_0}{n}\right)^4\right\}$ with β and m as functions of the internal parameter, the significant slope η of the wave field which is defined as $\sect = \frac{(\overline{\zeta^2})^{\frac{}1{2}}}{\lambda_0},$ where $\overline{\zeta^2}$ is the mean squared surface elevation, and λ0, n0 are the wavelength and frequency of the waves at the spectral peak. This spectral model is independent of local wind. Because the spectral model depends only on internal parameters, it contains information about fluid-dynamical processes. For example, it maintains a variable bandwidth as a function of the significant slope which measures the nonlinearity of the wave field. And it also contains the exact total energy of the true spectrum. Comparisons of this spectral model with the JONSWAP model and field data show excellent agreements. Thus we established an alternative approach for spectral models. Future research efforts should concentrate on relating the internal parameters to the external environmental variables.
ISSN:0022-1120
1469-7645
DOI:10.1017/S0022112081000360