Hair removal and bioavailability of chemicals: Effect of physicochemical properties of drugs and surfactants on skin permeation ex vivo

[Display omitted] Cosmetic hair removal procedures are everyday routines in our society. However, it is unclear if such routines lead to increased uptake of applied substances such as drugs or formulation compounds, potentially resulting in skin irritation or sensitization. The aim of this study was to elucidate the effect of common depilation and epilation methods on skin penetration of two surfactants and four model drugs of different physicochemical properties using the porcine ear model. It should be elucidated whether the substances’ skin penetration behavior would be affected by hair removal procedures and if potential effects would be related to their polarity. Confocal Raman spectroscopy revealed no effect of hair removal on total penetration depths of SDS and sulfathiazole. Significantly higher relative penetrated amounts within 0–6 µm of stratum corneum depth were found for SDS after dry shaving, depilatory cream and waxing and for sulfathiazole after all depilation methods and partly after epilation. ATR-FTIR spectroscopy revealed no effect of hair removal on the penetration depth of lecithin LPC80, but higher relative amounts at the skin surface after wet shaving and electric epilation. Diffusion cell experiments using a lecithin-based microemulsion as carrier system for fluconazole, fludrocortisone acetate and flufenamic acid showed higher cumulative amounts, higher drug fluxes and shorter lag times for the more lipophilic drugs for some of the methods, but only shorter lag times in some cases for fluconazole. In summary, the observed effects appeared to depend on drug polarity and experimental setup.