Comparing touch senses of naïve and expert panels through treated hair swatches: which associated wordings correlate with hair physical properties?

Objectives This study (i) compared the sense of touch between a naïve and expert panels, under visual or blind conditions, using differently treated hair swatches and (ii) explored possible common wordings used by both panels and their possible links with some physical properties of hairs. Methods Two sets of 15 hair swatches of Caucasian and Chinese origins were differently treated (bleached, permed, brushed, etc.) or organized (root–tip vs. tip–root). These were evaluated by tactile assessments by two panels (105 naïve consumers and 10 hair experts) under visual or blind conditions, in two geographical locations. A series of 17 defined antonym adjectives, as descriptors, allowed responses of each panel to being scored and their preference mappings to being defined on a like–dislike scale. Hair swatches were measured and assessed by various instrumental techniques (bending, diameter, cuticle cohesion, alignments of hair). Results Apart from a few overlaps, all 15 hair swatches were well differentiated by both panels which showed a global agreement, making experts reliable assessors. Only three descriptors among 17 correlated with some objective measurements. Tactile‐visual assessments differ from those performed tactile blind in both panels. Agreements between both panels appear, however, closer under tactile‐blind conditions. Conclusion Trained hair experts were confirmed as reliable representatives of a larger and naïve cohort, viewed as consumers. Hair swatches were well differentiated by both panels, with comparable descriptor rankings. Résumé Objectifs La présente étude avait pour buts i) de comparer le sens du toucher entre un panel naïf et des experts capillaires dans des conditions visuelles ou en aveugle, sur différentes mèches de cheveux et ii) d'explorer des attributs verbaux utilisés en commun et leurs liens possibles avec certaines propriétés physiques des cheveux. Méthodes Deux séries de 15 mèches de cheveux, d'origine Caucasienne et Chinoise, ont été différemment traitées (décolorées, permanentées, brossées) ou spécifiquement orientées (racine‐pointe ou pointe‐racine). Elles ont ensuite été évaluées au toucher par deux groupes différents (105 consommateurs ‘naïfs’ et 10 experts), situés dans deux lieux géographiques différents. Une série de 17 descripteurs définis a permis de quantifier les réponses de chaque groupe et de définir leurs profils de préférences via une échelle ‘aime‐n'aime pas’. Les mèches de cheveux ont été analysées par diff