Sand suspension, storage, advection, and settling in surf and swash zones

A time‐dependent cross‐shore sediment transport model in the surf and swash zones on beaches is developed to predict both beach accretion and erosion under the assumptions of alongshore uniformity and normally incident waves. The model is based on the depth‐integrated sediment continuity equation, which includes sediment suspension by turbulence generated by wave breaking and bottom friction, sediment storage in the entire water column, sediment advection by waves and wave‐induced return current, and sediment settling on the movable bottom. The hydrodynamic input required for this sediment transport model is predicted using the finite‐amplitude shallow‐water equations including bottom friction. The developed model is compared with three large‐scale laboratory tests with accretional, neutral (little), and erosional beach profile changes under regular waves. The model predicts sediment suspension under the steep front of breaking waves and due to bottom friction in the swash zone. The computed depth‐averaged sediment concentration does not respond to local sediment suspension instantaneously because of the sediment storage and advection. The mean sediment concentration becomes large in comparison to the oscillatory concentration with the decrease of the normalized sediment fall velocity. The net cross‐shore sediment transport rate is shown to be the small difference between the onshore transport rate due to the positively correlated oscillatory components of the suspended sediment volume per unit area and the horizontal sediment velocity and the offshore transport rate due to the product of the mean suspended sediment volume and the mean horizontal sediment velocity. Relatedly, the net accretion or erosion rate of the movable bottom is determined by the small difference between the mean sediment settling rate and the mean suspension rate caused by wave breaking and bottom friction. The present computation is limited to the initial beach profile change, but the numerical model is capable of predicting the accretional, erosional, and neutral profile changes.