Solid phase microextraction/gas chromatographic and olfactory analysis of the scent and fixative properties of the essential oil of Rosa damascena L. from China

The composition of the essential oil and the SPME‐headspace volatiles of Rosa damascena L. (Rosaceae) from China were investigated by gas chromatographic–spectroscopic (GC–FID and GC–MS) and olfactoric methods to identify those compounds responsible for the characteristic, pleasant floral odour of these valuable, high‐priced flower oils. Monoterpenes especially were found to be fragrance target compounds, while additionally some aliphatic hydrocarbons will have fixative effects and therefore are responsible for a longer‐lasting odour impression (tested by olfactory evaluation after application to human skin) of this rose oil. The main compounds [concentration higher than 3.0%; calculated as %‐peak area of GC–FID analyses using a polar (carbowax) column] of the 71 totally identified constituents of the two rose samples are as follows: Chinese rose oil: citronellol (30.71%), nonadecane (16.95%), geraniol (16.11%), nerol (7.57%), heneicosane (7.04%) and 9‐eicosene (4.71%); and SPME‐headspace of the Chinese rose oil: citronellol (37.05%), geraniol (18.62%), nerol (9.91%) and methyl eugenol (3.56%). A correlation of the identified constituents of the two rose oil samples with their single odour impressions is also given and the significant change of the composition of the SPME‐headspace samples after rose oil application on human skin discussed. Copyright © 2004 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.