Raman comparison of skin dermis of different ages: focus on spectral markers of collagen hydration

Skin aging is the most visible sign of aging of the body. This complex process involves molecular and structural alterations of the main skin constituents. The major cutaneous constituent is type I collagen that gives strength and resilience to the skin. This macromolecule possesses a particular triple helix structure and is arranged in the form of a fibrous network. Water plays a crucial role for maintaining this molecular assembly which is altered during intrinsic chronological aging. To investigate some of these structural alterations, Raman microspectroscopy was employed since this biophotonic approach permits to probe the biomolecular composition of the skin in a non‐destructive manner. In addition, type I collagen gives specific Raman vibrations; some of which being sensitive to the molecule conformation and to the water environment. In this purpose, Raman spectra of four skin samples of different ages (two samples of 40 year old and two samples of 70 year old) were collected by varying the relative environmental humidity. Our experiments highlighted spectral differences between the four samples. The analysis of the Raman data permitted to suggest a model for the interactions between collagen and water molecules and a decrease in collagen fibers compactness with chronological aging. Our study demonstrates that Raman spectroscopy can be a useful tool to investigate skin aging, with innovative applications in dermatology as well as in cosmetics. Copyright © 2013 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd. Raman vibrations specific of collagen/water interactions were identified as potential photonic markers of skin collagen chronological aging.