Depth-induced wave breaking in a non-hydrostatic, near-shore wave model
The energy dissipation in the surf-zone due to wave breaking is inherently accounted for in shock-capturing non-hydrostatic wave models, but this requires high vertical resolutions. To allow coarse vertical resolutions a hydrostatic front approximation is suggested. It assumes a hydrostatic pressure...
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Veröffentlicht in: | Coastal engineering (Amsterdam) 2013-06, Vol.76, p.1-16 |
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Format: | Artikel |
Sprache: | eng |
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Zusammenfassung: | The energy dissipation in the surf-zone due to wave breaking is inherently accounted for in shock-capturing non-hydrostatic wave models, but this requires high vertical resolutions. To allow coarse vertical resolutions a hydrostatic front approximation is suggested. It assumes a hydrostatic pressure distribution at the front of a breaking wave which ensures that the wave front develops a vertical face. Based on the analogy between a hydraulic jump and a turbulent bore, energy dissipation is accounted for by ensuring conservation of mass and momentum. Results are compared with observations of random, uni-directional waves in wave flumes, and to observations of short-crested waves in a wave basin. These demonstrate that the resulting model can resolve the relevant near-shore wave processes in a short-crested wave-field, including wave breaking and wave-driven horizontal circulations.
► Non-hydrostatic models require high vertical resolutions in the surf zone. ► To ameliorate this the hydrostatic front approximation is suggested. ► This permits low vertical resolutions in the entire domain, including the surf zone. ► Wave processes in a short-crested wave-field are adequately resolved. |
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ISSN: | 0378-3839 1872-7379 |
DOI: | 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2013.01.008 |