American Seams: An Exploration of Hybrid Fast Fashion and Domestic Manufacturing Models in Relocalised Apparel Production

As recently as 1997, over 40% of all apparel purchased in the US was produced domestically. Today, that figure is less than 3%. Given high labour costs, can the US find opportunities in the global apparel market to increase domestic production while simultaneously improving environmental and social performance? This paper explores a potential hybrid solution combining knowledge of the ‘sustainable apparel’ marketplace with a fast-fashion model that relies on a supply chain that matches shorter-cycle, flexible production with higher product differentiation. Compared with today's dominant model of offshore production in low-cost-labour countries, onshoring more of the supply chain to the US would facilitate quicker response to actual customer demand while manufacturing in a less pollution-intensive manner owing to proximity and tougher domestic environmental rules and enforcement. An environmental review captures differences between the hybrid sustainable apparel/fast fashion-based system and the offshore alternative. A first-trial gross operating profitability assessment indicates that the hybrid system can be more profitable than the offshoring model under conditions that already exist for European-based retailers. This paper shows how, taken together, alternative production methods could support relocalisation of apparel manufacturing in the US, thereby increasing local jobs, resource productivity and brand security.