ASSESSING THE FREQUENCY DISPERSION INFLUENCE ON THE SOLITARY-WAVE INTERACTION WITH A CONSTANT SLOPING BEACH

This article focuses on the effect of frequency dispersion on the wave run-up height and the characteristics of the surface waves reflected from a coastal slope. Calculations are performed within the framework of nonlinear dispersive and nondispersive shallow water models using the original boundary conditions on a moving shoreline. A case study of the problem of solitary wave run-up on flat coastal slopes with parameters close to the characteristics of one of the Kamchatka bays shows that the nondispersive model overestimates the maximum run-up and amplitudes of the reflected waves by 10–20%.