Freak waves in random oceanic sea states

Freak waves are very large, rare events in a random ocean wave train. Here we study their generation in a random sea state characterized by the Joint North Sea Wave Project spectrum. We assume, to cubic order in nonlinearity, that the wave dynamics are governed by the nonlinear Schrödinger (NLS) equ...

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Veröffentlicht in:Physical review letters 2001-06, Vol.86 (25), p.5831-5834
Hauptverfasser: Onorato, M, Osborne, A R, Serio, M, Bertone, S
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Sprache:eng
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Zusammenfassung:Freak waves are very large, rare events in a random ocean wave train. Here we study their generation in a random sea state characterized by the Joint North Sea Wave Project spectrum. We assume, to cubic order in nonlinearity, that the wave dynamics are governed by the nonlinear Schrödinger (NLS) equation. We show from extensive numerical simulations of the NLS equation how freak waves in a random sea state are more likely to occur for large values of the Phillips parameter alpha and the enhancement coefficient gamma. Comparison with linear simulations is also reported.
ISSN:0031-9007
1079-7114
DOI:10.1103/PhysRevLett.86.5831