Classification of Surf Breaks in Relation to Surfing Skill

Peel angles and wave height are two of the key variables determining the level of skill needed to surf a wave. For artificial surfing reefs, the degree of surfing difficulty needs to be rated numerically in order to accurately specify design criteria. Peel angles were collected and examined in relat...

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Veröffentlicht in:Journal of coastal research 2001-01, p.66-81
Hauptverfasser: Hutt, James A., Black, Kerry P., Mead, Shaw T.
Format: Artikel
Sprache:eng
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Zusammenfassung:Peel angles and wave height are two of the key variables determining the level of skill needed to surf a wave. For artificial surfing reefs, the degree of surfing difficulty needs to be rated numerically in order to accurately specify design criteria. Peel angles were collected and examined in relation to the level of skill required to surf waves of different heights, and a classification scheme was developed which defines the boundaries between waves that can be successfully ridden by beginner to expert surfers. The classification scheme places emphasis on peel angle and considers a wave height range of 0–4 m, making it applicable to artificial surf break development. The data came from previously published values (Mead and Black, 1999) and new measurements from sites worldwide. Highly detailed studies of aerial photographs and bathymetry at Burleigh Heads and Kirra Point (Australia) and five surfing breaks at Raglan (New Zealand) were made. Comparing the rankings of surf breaks to the surfer skill required to successfully surf each break validated the scheme.
ISSN:0749-0208
1551-5036