Method and sewing machine for drawing the free end of a needle thread from the upper surface of a piece of fabric to its lower surface

A sewing machine mechanism to draw the free end (83) of the upper thread (62) through the upper surface of the fabric workpiece (74,75) to the under surface on the first stitch of a stitched seam, has a needle (11) to carry the thread from its bobbin. The looper (12) forms the upper thread loop under the fabric, while the upper thread is clamped between the needle and the upper thread lever (64). At a sewing machine, the mechanism to draw the free end (83) of the upper thread (62) through the upper surface of the fabric workpiece (74,75) to the under surface on the first stitch of a stitched seam, has a needle (11) to carry the thread from its bobbin. The looper (12) forms the upper thread loop under the fabric, while the upper thread is clamped between the needle and the upper thread lever (64). While the upper thread is clamped, the presser foot (25) is at least partially relaxed for a duration which is extended on an increasing fabric thickness (s).