Computer Prediction of Nearshore and Surf Zone Statistics

For the purpose of aiding in the strategic planning of naval inshore warfare operations, a study has been performed to develop prediction technology for shallow water waves, breakers, and longshore current velocities, using the visually observed deep water wave statistics as input. Computer programs, code-named 'BREAKM' and 'STATBR,' and various nomographs have been developed to permit predictions for both physical magnitude and long-term statistics. Information display formats have been developed with a view to permitting speedy review of various key physical parameters and comparison between adjacent regions. Predicted results compare reasonably well with visually observed nearshore data, provided that a tolerable amount of discrepancy exists due partly to local conditions not accounted for in our prediction, partly to the built-in safety margin in our prediction, and partly to the limitations inherent to the state of the art. (Author)