Two Methods for the Computation of the Motion of Long Water Waves - A Review and Applications

The continuing evolution in speed and capacity of digital computers has encouraged the development of many computationally oriented methods for analysis of the movement of waves over the ocean surface and onto the shore. The paper describes two numerical models for the shoaling of water waves where nonlinear effects are significant, but breaking has not occurred. The first model provides an approximate and quasi-three-dimensional simulation (two horizontal space dimensions with vertical effects represented in once integrated equations) of the motion of waves over arbitrary bottom topography. The second model gives an exact simulation of the dynamics of water waves in two-space dimensions. (Author) Preprint for Symposium on Naval Hydrodynamics (8th) Pasadena, Calif. Aug 70. Prepared in cooperation with IBM Research Lab., San Jose, Calif.