Impacts of an Artificial Sandbar on Wave Transformation and Runup over a Nourished Beach

Due to increasing coastal flooding and erosion in changing climate and rising sea level, there is a growing need for coastal protection and ecological restoration. Artificial sandbars have become popular green coastal infrastructure to protect coasts from these natural hazards. To assess the effect of an artificial sandbar on wave transformation over a beach under normal and storm wave conditions, a high-resolution non-hydrostatic model based on XBeach is established at the laboratory scale. Under normal wave conditions, wave energy is mainly concentrated in short wave frequency bands. The wave setup is negligible on the shoreface but becomes more significant over the beach face, and wave nonlinearity increases with decreasing water depth. The artificial sandbar reduces the wave setup by 22% and causes considerable changes in wave skewness, wave asymmetry, and flow velocity. Under storm wave conditions, as the incident wave height increases, the wave energy in the long wave frequency bands rises, while it decreases in the short wave frequency bands. The wave dissipation coefficient of an artificial sandbar increases first and then decreases with increasing incident wave height, and the opposite is true with the transmission coefficient. It features that the effect of an artificial sandbar on wave energy dissipation strengthens first and then weakens with increasing incident wave height. Additionally, an empirical formula for the wave runup was proposed based on the model results of the wave runup for storm wave conditions. The study reveals the complex processes of wave–structure–coast interactions and provides scientific evidence for the design of an artificial sandbar in beach nourishment projects.