Laboratory study of non-linear wave–wave interactions of extreme focused waves in the nearshore zone

Extreme waves play a crucial role in marine inundation hazards and coastal erosion. Prediction of non-linear wave–wave interactions is crucial in assessing the propagation of shallow water extreme waves in coastal regions. In this article, we experimentally study non-linear wave–wave interactions of...

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Veröffentlicht in:Natural hazards and earth system sciences 2020-12, Vol.20 (12), p.3279-3291
Hauptverfasser: Abroug, Iskander, Abcha, Nizar, Jarno, Armelle, Marin, François
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Sprache:eng
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Zusammenfassung:Extreme waves play a crucial role in marine inundation hazards and coastal erosion. Prediction of non-linear wave–wave interactions is crucial in assessing the propagation of shallow water extreme waves in coastal regions. In this article, we experimentally study non-linear wave–wave interactions of large-amplitude focused wave groups propagating in a two-dimensional wave flume over a mild slope (β=1:25). The influence of the frequency spectrum and the steepness on the non-linear interactions of focused waves are examined. The generated wave trains correspond to Pierson–Moskowitz and JONSWAP (γ=3.3 or γ=7) spectra. Subsequently, we experimentally approach this problem by the use of a bispectral analysis applied on short time series, via the wavelet-based bicoherence parameter, which identifies and quantifies the phase coupling resulting from non-resonant or bound triad interactions with the peak frequency. The bispectral analysis shows that the phase coupling increases gradually and approaches 1 just prior to breaking, accordingly with the spectrum broadening and the energy increase in high-frequency components. Downstream breaking, the values of phase coupling between the peak frequency and its higher harmonics decrease drastically, and the bicoherence spectrum becomes less structured.
ISSN:1684-9981
1561-8633
1684-9981
DOI:10.5194/nhess-20-3279-2020