Chromium-free and waterless vegetable-aluminium tanning system for sustainable leather manufacture

•An eco-acceptable chrome- free and waterless tanning system was developed using wattle and aluminium.•Distribution of tanning agent was good despite processed without water.•Superior physical strength characteristics than conventional chromium tanned leather.•Pollution load viz., BOD, COD and TDS of the developed tanning process reduced by 88, 89 and 97%. [Display omitted] Intensifying researches in leather sector are focusing on eco-benign tanning chemicals with less environmental impact processing route. The present study aims to design an eco-acceptable shoe upper leather process that could potentially eliminate use of chrome from the leather industry. Possible conversion of Cr3+ to Cr6+ in suitable oxidant environment during leather manufacture is always a threat to the ecosystem. Water load for leather processing is very high, also becoming a precious resource that needs to be reduced for industrial applications. Further without water usage for a process, generation of wastewater could be averted. With this context, a combination tanning using wattle and aluminium has been developed in a pickle-less and waterless medium. The experimental leather possesses a shrinkage temperature of 84 °C with a fully loaded compact fibre structure indicating that tannin penetration is not affected in waterless medium. Experimental leathers exhibit better physical strength and comparable organoleptic characteristics. The process enjoys environmental benefits as it shows significant pollution load reduction in Biological Oxygen Demand (BOD), chemical oxygen demand (COD), Total Dissolved Solids (TDS) by 88, 89, and 97%, respectively. Hence, a viable option is made available to manufacture eco-acceptable leather without water usage and chrome salts in tanning.