Current regulatory and market frameworks in green cosmetics: The role of certification

In recent years, Green Chemistry has been consolidated as a means of preventing pollution and preserving the environment as it acts on the molecular level and considers the entire life cycle of products. Green Chemistry is, therefore, closely connected to environmental, economic and social sustainability. Moreover, consumers in the cosmetics field have become more aware of environmental concerns, and have thus pushed the industry to evolve towards “greener” products. This review compares the main cosmetic certifications (COSMOS, NATRUE, ICEA, VEGANOK and EU ECOLABEL) for green cosmetics, which are made up of natural/organic, vegetarian/vegan and ecological products, and contextualises them within the current legislation framework, including ISO 16128. Moreover, other relevant aspects of green cosmetics, including consumer perception and market concerns, have been analysed with an eye to the influence of cosmetic certifications. Although green marketing is correctly being promoted by several cosmetic companies because of increasing public awareness, the phenomenon of Greenwashing, which entails deceptive marketing, can occur when consumers are misled by the existence of different and not-yet-harmonised cosmetic standards. •Green cosmetics are gaining a relevant importance in the market.•Green cosmetics do not have standardised definitions under current legislation.•Within this context, cosmetic certifications are relevant standards for companies and consumers.•Greenwashing can occur when consumers are misled by the existence of different and not-yet-harmonised cosmetic standards.