Antioxidant and anti-photoaging properties of red marine macroalgae: Screening of bioactive molecules for cosmeceutical applications

Oxidative stress generated by UV exposition plays an important role on photoaging. Understanding the cell physiological responses due to the action of oxidative molecules process helps to develop approaches to reduce its impact on skin cells. In this context, algae can be source of biomolecules with antioxidant, inhibition of metalloproteinases and photoprotective capacities, such as mycosporine-like amino acids and phenolic compounds. This study focuses on the characterization of aqueous and hydroethanolic extracts of six red marine macroalgae: Phycocalidia acanthophora, Porphyra linearis, Condracanthus teedei, Gracilaria cornea, Osmundea pinnatifida and Plocamium cartilagineum (from two different sites). Besides their biochemical characterization, we also evaluated antioxidant capacity, potential to collagenase inhibition, and photoprotective capacity by different biological effective protection factors (BEPFs). Results evidenced a better correlation among the compounds of interest and bioactivity when using water as solvent rather than hydroethanolic solution. P. acanthophora and P. linearis aqueous extracts were highlighted in all analyses. Considering this fact, these two extracts were incorporate onto a cosmeceutical formulation. BEPFs evidenced that the incorporation of the extracts increased the photoprotection factors when compared to the control without physical filters. According to the findings herein described, the potential of red macroalgae as source of bioactive compounds with antiaging potential is reinforced. •UV radiation triggers photoaging by increasing oxidative stress and changing compounds of the extracellular matrix.•Red macroalgae can be considered source of pigments, polysaccharides, mycosporine-like amino acids and antioxidant enzymes.•Porphyra linearis and Phycocalidia acanthophora were highlighted as potential sources of bioactive compounds.•Water has a higher potential on extraction of antioxidant compounds than hydroethanolic solution.•Polyphenols and mycosporine-like amino acids reduce collagenase activity.