Revisiting the hydrodynamic modulation of short surface waves by longer waves
Hydrodynamic modulation of short ocean surface waves by longer ambient waves is a well-known ocean surface process that affects remote sensing, the interpretation of in situ wave measurements, and numerical wave forecasting. In this paper, we revisit the linear wave theory and derive higher-order st...
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Zusammenfassung: | Hydrodynamic modulation of short ocean surface waves by longer ambient waves
is a well-known ocean surface process that affects remote sensing, the
interpretation of in situ wave measurements, and numerical wave forecasting. In
this paper, we revisit the linear wave theory and derive higher-order steady
solutions for the change of short-wave wavenumber, action density, and
gravitational acceleration due to the presence of longer waves. We validate the
analytical solutions with numerical simulations of the full wave crest and
action conservation equations. The nonlinear analytical solutions of short-wave
wavenumber, amplitude, and steepness modulation significantly deviate from the
linear analytical solutions of Longuet-Higgins & Stewart (1960), and are
similar to the nonlinear numerical solutions by Longuet-Higgins (1987) and
Zhang & Melville (1990). The short-wave steepness modulation is attributed to
be 5/8 due to the wavenumber, 1/4 due to the wave action, and 1/8 due to the
effective gravity. We further examine the result of Peureux et al. (2021) who
found through numerical simulations that the short-wave modulation grows
unsteadily with each long-wave passage. We show that this unsteady growth only
occurs only for homogeneous initial conditions as a special case and does not
generally occur, for example in more realistic long-wave groups. The proposed
steady solutions are a good approximation of the fully nonlinear numerical
solutions in long-wave steepness up to ~0.2. Except for a subset of initial
conditions, the solutions to the fully nonlinear crest-action conservation
equations are mostly steady in the reference frame of the long waves. |
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DOI: | 10.48550/arxiv.2410.12960 |