The birth of cool style narratives of the African diaspora
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| 1. Verfasser: | |
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| Format: | Buch |
| Sprache: | English |
| Veröffentlicht: |
London [u.a.]
Bloomsbury
2016
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| Schlagworte: | |
| Online-Zugang: | Inhaltsverzeichnis Klappentext |
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Datensatz im Suchindex
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| adam_text |
CONTENTS
R
List of Illustrations viii
List of Plates xi
Acknowledgments xii
Preface xiv
Introduction 1
1 Angel in the Market Place: The African-Jamaican Higgler,
1880-1907 9
2 “We Also Should Walk in the Newness of Life”:
Individualized Harlem Styles of the 1930s 59
3 “All of Me”: Billie Holiday 87
4 “My Man, Let Me Pull Your Coat to Something”:
Malcolm X 127
5 You Should Understand, It’s A Freedom Thing: The Stoned
Cherrie-Steve Biko T-shirt 151
6 Here: The Haunting Joy of Being in England 171
Coda 199
Notes 203
Bibliography 223
Index 249
“The Birth of Cool makes a unique contribution to studies of dress and culture, as well
as to black studies and diaspora studies. Tulloch deconstructs and reconstructs black
aesthetics to open new pathways for understanding the lives and social histories of
figures like Billie Holiday and Malcolm X. It is one of the most impressive works I have
read in years.”
D. SOYINI MADISON, NORTHWESTERN UNIVERSITY, USA
“71he Birth of Cool offers a passionate reflexive analysis of transnational black glamour as
an expression of undeniable presence, knowledge, and agency. As a foundational text,
this book offers readers a deeper and more historical understanding of contemporary
‘cool response’ activism perhaps most famously practiced by Barack Obama, but visibly
evident across the entire African diaspora.”
ANNETTE LYNCH, UNIVERSITY OF NORTHERN IOWA, USA
It is broadly recognized that black style had a clear and profound influence on the history
of dress in the twentieth century, with black culture and fashion having long been defined
as “cool”. Yet despite this high profile, in-depth explorations of the culture and history of
style and dress in the African diaspora are a relatively recent area of enquiry. The Birth of
Cool asserts that “cool” is seen as an arbiter of presence, and relates how both iconic and
“ordinary” black individuals and groups have marked out their lives through the styling of
their bodies.
Focusing on counter- and sub-cultural contexts, this book investigates the role of dress
in the creation and assertion of black identity. From the gardenia corsage worn by Billie
Holiday, to the workwear of female African-Jamaican market traders, through to the
home-dressmaking of black Britons in the 1960s, and the meaning of a polo neck jumper
as depicted in a 1934 self-portrait by African-American artist Malvin Gray Johnson, this
study looks at the ways in which the diaspora experience is expressed through self-image.
Spanning the late nineteenth century to the modern day, the book draws on ready-made
and homemade fashion, photographs, paintings and films, published and unpublished
biographies, and letters from Britain, Jamaica, South Africa, and the United States to
consider how personal style statements reflect issues of racial and cultural difference. The
Birth of Cool is a powerful exploration of how style and dress both initiate and confirm
change, and the ways in which they express identity and resistance in black culture.
CAROL TULLOCH is Professor of Dress, Diaspora and Transnationalism at Chelsea College
of Arts, University of the Arts London, UK. She is also the Chelsea College of Arts/Victoria
and Albert Museum Fellow in Black British Visual and Material Culture.
ISBN 978-1-85973-470-4 |
| any_adam_object | 1 |
| author | Tulloch, Carol |
| author_GND | (DE-588)18847532X |
| author_facet | Tulloch, Carol |
| author_role | aut |
| author_sort | Tulloch, Carol |
| author_variant | c t ct |
| building | Verbundindex |
| bvnumber | BV042769675 |
| classification_rvk | LH 79062 |
| ctrlnum | (OCoLC)633080112 (DE-599)BVBBV042769675 |
| dewey-full | 391.00896073 |
| dewey-hundreds | 300 - Social sciences |
| dewey-ones | 391 - Costume and personal appearance |
| dewey-raw | 391.00896073 |
| dewey-search | 391.00896073 |
| dewey-sort | 3391.00896073 |
| dewey-tens | 390 - Customs, etiquette, folklore |
| discipline | Kunstgeschichte Sozial-/Kulturanthropologie / Empirische Kulturwissenschaft |
| format | Book |
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| language | English |
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| spelling | Tulloch, Carol Verfasser (DE-588)18847532X aut The birth of cool style narratives of the African diaspora Carol Tulloch London [u.a.] Bloomsbury 2016 xiii, 254 Seiten, 4 ungezählte Blätter farbige Bildtafeln. - Illustrationen txt rdacontent n rdamedia nc rdacarrier Includes index - Bibliography Kulturvermittlung (DE-588)4165992-2 gnd rswk-swf Stil (DE-588)4124256-7 gnd rswk-swf Kleidung (DE-588)4031011-5 gnd rswk-swf Identität (DE-588)4026482-8 gnd rswk-swf Diaspora Religion, Motiv (DE-588)4619771-0 gnd rswk-swf Mode (DE-588)4039792-0 gnd rswk-swf Schwarze (DE-588)4116433-7 gnd rswk-swf Afrika (DE-588)4000695-5 gnd rswk-swf Schwarze (DE-588)4116433-7 s Diaspora Religion, Motiv (DE-588)4619771-0 s Kleidung (DE-588)4031011-5 s Stil (DE-588)4124256-7 s Identität (DE-588)4026482-8 s DE-604 Afrika (DE-588)4000695-5 g Kulturvermittlung (DE-588)4165992-2 s Mode (DE-588)4039792-0 s Erscheint auch als Online-Ausgabe, EPUB 978-1-4742-6287-3 Erscheint auch als Online-Ausgabe, PDF 978-1-4742-6286-6 Digitalisierung UB Bayreuth - ADAM Catalogue Enrichment application/pdf http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=028200014&sequence=000003&line_number=0001&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA Inhaltsverzeichnis Digitalisierung UB Bayreuth - ADAM Catalogue Enrichment application/pdf http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=028200014&sequence=000004&line_number=0002&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA Klappentext |
| spellingShingle | Tulloch, Carol The birth of cool style narratives of the African diaspora Kulturvermittlung (DE-588)4165992-2 gnd Stil (DE-588)4124256-7 gnd Kleidung (DE-588)4031011-5 gnd Identität (DE-588)4026482-8 gnd Diaspora Religion, Motiv (DE-588)4619771-0 gnd Mode (DE-588)4039792-0 gnd Schwarze (DE-588)4116433-7 gnd |
| subject_GND | (DE-588)4165992-2 (DE-588)4124256-7 (DE-588)4031011-5 (DE-588)4026482-8 (DE-588)4619771-0 (DE-588)4039792-0 (DE-588)4116433-7 (DE-588)4000695-5 |
| title | The birth of cool style narratives of the African diaspora |
| title_auth | The birth of cool style narratives of the African diaspora |
| title_exact_search | The birth of cool style narratives of the African diaspora |
| title_full | The birth of cool style narratives of the African diaspora Carol Tulloch |
| title_fullStr | The birth of cool style narratives of the African diaspora Carol Tulloch |
| title_full_unstemmed | The birth of cool style narratives of the African diaspora Carol Tulloch |
| title_short | The birth of cool |
| title_sort | the birth of cool style narratives of the african diaspora |
| title_sub | style narratives of the African diaspora |
| topic | Kulturvermittlung (DE-588)4165992-2 gnd Stil (DE-588)4124256-7 gnd Kleidung (DE-588)4031011-5 gnd Identität (DE-588)4026482-8 gnd Diaspora Religion, Motiv (DE-588)4619771-0 gnd Mode (DE-588)4039792-0 gnd Schwarze (DE-588)4116433-7 gnd |
| topic_facet | Kulturvermittlung Stil Kleidung Identität Diaspora Religion, Motiv Mode Schwarze Afrika |
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