Piese de podoabă şi vestimentaţie din Moldova şi Ţara Românească în contextul relaţiilor cultural-istorice (secolele XIV - XVII)
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2014
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| 245 | 1 | 0 | |a Piese de podoabă şi vestimentaţie din Moldova şi Ţara Românească în contextul relaţiilor cultural-istorice |b (secolele XIV - XVII) |c Svetlana Reabţeva |
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| 546 | |a Zsfassung in engl. Sprache u.d.T.: Jewelry and costume decorations from the Moldavian and Wallachian principalities in the context of the cultural and historical contacts (XIV - XVII centuries) | ||
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Datensatz im Suchindex
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| adam_text | Summary
Jewelry and costume decorations from the Moldavian and
Wallachian principalities in the context of the cultural and
historical contacts (XIV—XVII centuries)
The book is dedicated to the problem of the formation of jewelry dress of
the population of South-Eastern and Eastern Europe. The main purpose of the
study is to examine the materials originating from the territories of medieval
Moldavian and Walachian principalities. At the same time the jewelry from the
Carpathian-Danube region, are analyzed on a broad background of antiquities,
characteristic to the monuments of South-Eastern and Eastern Europe. In the
book the materials originating in the territories of modem Republic of Moldova
and Romania are comparing with the antiquities known from Bulgaria, Hungary,
Serbia, Macedonia, Croatia, Ukraine and Russia.
The investigation of the set of jewelry decorations was made in
accordance with their distribution in the jewelry dresses and suits. The main
product groups are distinguished by the head and headdress decorations (crown,
tiaras, earrings, temple-decorations, hat and head pins), neck jewelry (pendants,
necklaces); hands decorations (bracelets and rings), the things directly associated
with the decoration of clothes (belts, plaques, a variety of buckles and buttons).
Using in ceremonial and full dress of precious diadems dates back to the
Byzantine tradition. Among such decorations are the diadem from Preslav
(Bulgaria, X c.), the Hungarian crowns of Constantine Monomach and Geze (XI
c.), diadems from Kiev and Sahnovka (Ukraine, XII c), diadem from Macovi^te
(Romania, XIII-XIV c.). In addition, it is known that similar products as the
crown of Comad II (Austria), some diadems from Goranu, Cotnari (Romania)
and Kamennii Brod (Ukraine) were made under Western European influence.
Specific types of diadems made up of flexible links and small plaques and often
equipped with multiple chains and pendants are in archeological sites of the
Carpathian-Balkan region of XIV-XV centuries. These precious items presented
in the main cases in treasures have basic analogues in the antiquities of the
Balkan region. Also there are the several types of more simple diadems,
founding as a rule in the funerary complexes. As for jewelry dress of the
population of Walachian principality there are the diadems with plaque
decorated with embossed hemispheres, or lily as most characteristic ones there.
At the historical territory of the Principality of Moldova prevail diadems with
zoomorphic, vegetal, or vegetable-geometric decoration.
255
It is also under the Byzantine influence some temple-decorations became
widespread ones. Similar pendants consisted of hollow cone and numerous
chains are known in the archeological monuments of Serbia, Bulgaria, Romania,
Hungary, Ukraine and Russia. With the community of forms and purpose, these
jewelry decorations in different regions have variable decor. Ornaments
originating in the Carpathian-Balkan region date back to XIII-XIV c., Old-
Russian ones do to XII-XIII c. Based on these decorations there was formed the
derived ornaments, dated before the XVI century. They are represented in the
suit of such dignitaries as the queen Anastasia Romanovna (the first wife of
Russian Tsar Ivan the Terrible) or doamna Rucsanda (daughter of the king of
Wallachia Neagoe Basarab).
Another type of temple-decorations which has appeared in the dress of the
population of the Carpathian-Danube region under the Byzantine influence were
kolts. It is known some finds of kolts of XI-XII centuries, the decorations comes
from Păcăul lui Soare perhaps were made by Byzantine masters. In the XIII
century the kolts are more common ones, some of them are typologically close
to the Old Russian productions. In XIV֊XVI centuries the kolts have the closest
analogy in the jewelry adornments of the Balkan peoples. As for the later
versions the kolts had typical rich decor with granulation, filigree, wire sockets,
multi-colored inserts.
Under the influence of the Byzantine school of metalwork the bead
temple-rings and earrings came in fashion in the Southeastern, Central and
Eastern Europe. The beginning of production of such decorations in the
Carpathian-Danube region’s dated back to the XII century. Also there are some
isolated finds of bead temple-rings of ancient Rus’ appearance (Brăneşti,
Oţeleni). For this type of jewelry decorations such features as different size and
shape of the lateral and central beads, the entwined of the upper part of the are
characterized bow for Carpathian-Balkan region. These decorations are known
until the beginning of the XVII century. The decor of the late items includes
caps, granular pyramid, metal tube, color inserts. A number of ornaments can be
worn as earrings connected with chins (Sahama, Desging, Orhei).
Presence in the Carpathian-Danube region (in the archaeological sites,
dated to XIV—XV centuries) of annular ear-rings and temple-rings (Suceava,
Trifeşti, Hudum, Voloveţ, Păcuiul lui Soare, Cocoş, Tumu Severin) are
connected with the Slavic jewelry tradition. Some earrings with teardrop
pendant, earrings in the form of a question mark and rings in the form of a snake
biting its own tail (Orhei Vehi, Hudum, Izvoare, Schinetea) were made
according to the Horde tradition. Perhaps, the fashion tradition of head dress
pins with the figures of birds was coming from the east (the Volga region) in the
XIV century. Typical female costume type pins with the ends in the form of
rosettes develops in the Carpathian-Danube region for the XV-XVII centuries.
256
Precious heat brooches spread in the men’s suit under the influence of the
Turkish fashion.
As for the neck metal jewelry, in the period under the consideration, they
are not typical ones. The exception is the late chains, sometimes with some
pendants. Most probably under an influence of the Balkan school of metal work
feminine necklace, braided from the flexible weaving of fine wire appear in
XVKXVII centuries.
In contrast to the neck ornaments, hands decorations were very popular
and diverse ones. There were some bracelets of Golden Horde types with the
images of lions’ masks such as Dinogetia, Päcuilui Soare, Ofeleni. If in the
Carpathian-Balkan region the phenomenon of similar bracelets was sporadic, not
beyond the scope of the XIV centur, the twisted or intertwined bracelets with
some shields, filigree and granulation were in fashion for very long time. In the
Carpathian-Balkan area these decorations existed until the 16th century, in the
south of Ancient Russia they were spread during a short period of time
beginning from the end of the 12th to the first third of the 13th century. During
the period of XV-XVI centuries there was a trend toward consolidation of some
shields, woven patterns almost completely disappeared but twisted exemplars
begun to prevail there. The wire becomes thicker, firmly implanted; filigree is
replaced by ribbed wire. These bracelets are characteristic mainly for the Danube
area, the Balkans and Central Europe. Probably, these bracelets were more
typical ones to the population of Wallachia, than Moldova. Finger-rings are very
numerous and diverse ones in Moldova and in Wallachia too. Apparently, they
were the most popular ones, and, in some cases, accessible objects of jewelry.
Among plaques intended for decorating cloths and hats, mark out the
ornaments made by Golden Horde (Coste§ti, Suceava) and the Western tradition
(Sibiu, Curtea de Arges, Buda). For the female costume of the population
Carpathian-Balkan region there is very common buckle-pafty rooted in a suit
under the influence of the Turkish fashion in XIV-XX centuries. Precious belts
made in the Turkish tradition were common to the men s ceremonial costume
from XVI to the beginning of the XVII century.
The research of the process of changing jewelry dresses typical to the
population of medieval Moldavian and Wallachian principalities for the long
time interval (from XIV to the beginning of XVII century) allows us to trace the
dynamics of formation such dress. At the same time there is the unmistakable
continuity in the development of different types of jewelry, some of which has
roots in antiquities of an earlier time. For the XII-XIII centuries - the time
preceding the main period of study in the Carpathian-Danube region jewelry
decorations were made in the Byzantine and Balkan traditions, also they were
known as some separate things of nomadic range. At the same time it was
known a number of ornaments made in the tradition of European art of the
Gothic style (diadems, belts).
257
In the XIV-XV centuries the full dress of the nobles of Carpathian-
Danube region continues to be under the Byzantine influence. In the jewelry
dress is still widely found ornaments, having the Byzantine origins and
prototypes. The period of XIV-XVII centuries is the time of active formation
and establishment of local school of color metal work in the Carpathian and
Balkan regions as well as the specific jewelry dresses. In the condition of fall of
Byzantium, in these workshops continues to be manufactured a series of
products of Byzantine stile (diadems, kolts, bead temple-rings and earrings,
headdress pendants with numerous chains, some types of bracelets and inger-
rings). However, these products become specific to the dress of the population
Carpathian-Danube region, often they are quite different from Byzantine
prototypes.
Along with these features of community a number of specific features can
be traced there. For example, the types of head decorations, characteristic for a
girl s and women s dress of a population of Wallachian principality have the
closest analogy, among the monuments from the territories of modem Serbia and
Croatia. Diadems, typical for the jewelry set of inhabitants of Moldavia, are
closest ones to the findings originating from Eastern Europe.
In addition to the Byzantine tradition, the formation of costume jewelry
and dress of the population Carpathian-Danube region, of course, was strongly
influenced by Western European fashion. The prevailing influence in Europe for
the XIV-XV centuries was Italian one. To the XVI century it was supplemented
by the Spanish influence. In the distribution of expensive fabrics and jewelry
decorations in Moldova and Wallachia there were important the communication
with the markets of Hungary, Germany, the Czech and Poland. Among the
ornaments have already represented in the archeological monuments of the XIII
century and the most revealing ones were the long gothic belts. During the
study of the Lord s necropolis of the first capital of Wallachia - Argeş one of the
most luxurious buckles of this style was found in Europe. From the same
cemetery as well as from several other archaeological sites in the territory under
review, there’re known some finger-rings of Western European appearance.
Some decorations as brooches, plaques, buttons were received from Western
Europe (or in such traditions they were manufactured in the Carpathian-Danube
region).
In the XIV century the population Carpathian-Danube region was
influenced by the culture of the Golden Horde. Actually some things made in the
Golden tradition (plate bracelet with lion heads on the ends, with drop-shaped
pendants earrings with dragon head, belt sets, birdlike plates) are used for a
short time. However, at least two types of ornament of Mongolian types as some
earrings in a form of question mark and plates, decorated with granulation and
filigree were formed as the basis of decorations typical of dress of the medieval
258
period in Moldova, Others ornaments were represented by isolated finds at sites
associated with the culture of the Golden Horde.
Perhaps the emergence of women s headgear in the XIV century pins with
scalloped endings in the form of figures of birds can be connected with the
Eastern tradition. In the XV-XVII centuries have spread the pins with the ends
in form of rosettes, the specific ones to the populations of the Carpathian-
Danube region. A new feature for complexes of XVI-XVII centuries is the
appearance of the flexible braided fine wire jewelry: bracelets, torques, chains
and chains with pendants. According to the numerous analogies originated from
the territory of Bulgaria the emergence of such ornaments probably is connected
with the influence of the Balkan school of metalwork.
A characteristic feature of complexes of XIV-XVII centuries is a frequent
presence of such a category of jewelry decorations, as the finger-rings. The order
of that day those rings were made in cast or soldered ones making from the
several parts. There are signet rings, cameos, colorful accents, filigree, engraved
geometric, floral, anthropomorphic and zoomorphic images. Among the
collection of these decorations there are some samples from the Lord’s burial of
Rădăuţi and Curtea de Argeş. Rings emphasized the social status of the owners,
some time they have an inscription with his name and regalia, auspicious signs.
Among items related to the brim of clothes are most common buttons of
spherical or teardrop-shaped forms. Known openwork filigree samples and
embossed ones, richly decorated with filigree, granulation, engraving, color
inserts, and the cast, including enriched with complex floral decoration. In
addition, there are buttons and flat Western European sample (Curtea de Argeş).
In addition to buttons for fastening clothing often used the clothes hooks and
loops, sometimes with additional decoration (Suceava, Orheiul Vehi, Târgu
Trotuş).
Beginning from the XVI century the Turkish influence was increasing in
costume jewelry and adornment of the population of the Moldavian and
Wallachian principalities. It’s evident, including in the appearance of specific
types of rings, buttons and chains. In the women s suit there are belts with
buckles-pafta. In the men cloves there are the characteristic metallic furniture
with agrafs, luxurious belts, chains, swords, daggers and parts for their
suspension.
Thus, the changes in jewelry dresses compositions clearly reflect historic
fate and cultural contacts, as well as the changing of some priorities of the
population of the Moldavian and Wallachian principalities.
259
CUPRINS
Introducere...................................................................... 9
Capitolul I. Podoabe pentru cap şi acoperământul capului................... 19
1.1. Diademe şi coroane .................................................. 19
1.1.1. Istoria evoluţiei acestui tip de podoabe................... 19
1.1.2. Diademe şi coroane din siturile arheologice din Europa
centrală şi de vest, executate de către meşteri bizantini sau de tradiţie
bizantină.................................................................. 21
1.1.3. Diademe şi coroniţe din siturile arheologice din regiunea 22
balcanică..................................................................
1.1.3.1. Diademe................................................... 22
1.1.3.2. Coroniţe.................................................. 25
1.1.4. Diademe şi coroniţe din siturile arheologice din regiunea 26
carpato-danubiană..........................................................
1.1.4.1. Diademe şi coroane........................................ 26
1.1.4.2. Coroniţe din aşezări şi situri funerare.............. 33
1.1.4.2.1. Coroniţe din aşezările şi siturile funerare din
Banat, Oltenia şi Muntenia şi analogiile balcanice ale acestora............ 33
1.1.4.2.2. Coroniţe din aşezările şi siturile funerare dintre
Carpaţi şi Nistru şi principalele analogii ale acestora......................... 37
1.1.5. Diademe şi coroniţe din siturile arheologice din Europa de est.... 43
1.1.5.1. Diademe................................................... 43
1.1.5.2. Coroniţe din arcuri convexe............................... 47
1.1.5.3. Coroniţe din aplice cu plăcuţe............................ 49
1.2. Pandantive pentru acoperământul capului (inclusiv pentru
diademe şi coroniţe)............................................................ 53
1.2.1. Pandantive-lănţişoare pentru acoperământul capului......... 54
1.2.2. Pandantive pentru acoperământul capului, cu partea
superioară în formă de picătură sau clopot, din siturile arheologice din
regiunea carpato-balcanică................................................. 56
1.2.3. Pandanti ve-reasna,cu partea superioară în formă de
picătură sau clopot, din siturile arheologice din Europa de est............ 58
1.3. Podoabe în formă de lunulă şi colac sau semilunare (inclusiv
kolt-urile) 62
1.3.1. Istoria evoluţiei podoabelor de tip kolt................... 62
1.3.2. Cercei bizantini în formă de lunulă........................ 63
1.3.3. Inele de tâmplă de tip kolt..................................... 66
1.3.4. Pandantive de tip kolt din siturile arheologice din Europa de est.... 67
1.3.5. Pandantive de tip kolt din siturile arheologice din regiunea
carpato-danubiană....................................................... 68
1.4. Cercei şi inele de tâmplă cu mărgele sferice................. 71
1.4.1. Istoria evoluţiei podoabelor cu mărgele................. 72
1.4.2. Podoabe cu mărgele din Europa centrală în secolele X-XIV 72
1.4.3. Podoabe cu mărgele din Europa de est....................... 74
1.4.4. Podoabe cu mărgele din regiunea balcanică.................. 75
1.4.5. Podoabe cu mărgele din regiunea carpato-danubiană...... 77
1.4.6. Variantele tipologice de bază ale cerceilor cu mărgele,
caracteristice regiunii carpato-balcanice............................... 79
1.4.7. Descoperirile cele mai relevante de podoabe cu mărgele din
secolele xm-x VII........................................................... 81
1.4.8. O variantă a acoperământului capului, executat din
podoabe cu mărgele, unite prin lănţişoare............................... 84
1.5. Cercei şi inele de tâmplă de tip verigă...................... 85
I. 6. Cercei în formă de semn de întrebare........................ 86
ƒ. 7. Cercei cu pandantiv în formă de picătură.................... 87
1.8. Cercei din sârmă, decoraţi cu capete de dragoni.............. 89
1.9. Cercei caracteristici portului populaţiei regiunii carpato-
balcanice în secolele XVI-XVII.............................................. 89
1.10. Ace ornamentale pentru acoperământul capului.................... 90
Capitolul II. Podoabe pentru corp şi vestimentaţie...................... 97
II. 1. Podoabe pentru gât. Pandantive şi coliere.................. 97
II.2. Podoabe pentru mâini............................................ 99
11.2.1. Brăţări.................................................... 99
11.2.1.1. Brăţări din plăcuţe decorate cu reprezentări de măşti
de lei...................................................................... 99
11.2.1.2. Brăţări cu capetele decorate cu granule.......... 101
11.2.1.2.1. Istoria apariţiei acestui tip de podoabe.... 101
11.2.1.2.2. Brăţări cu capetele decorate cu granule din
regiunea carpato-balcanică................................................. 102
11.2.1.2.3. Brăţări cu capetele decorate cu granule din Europa
de est..................................................................... 105
IU. Inele............................................................ 107
II. 4. Aplice şi broşe cusute............................... 116
II. 5. încheietori vestimentare. Nasturi şi copci................. 122
II.6. Centuri...................................................... 127
11.6.1. Centuri de tip Hoarda de Aur.............................. 127
11.6.2. Centuri de tradiţie vest-europeană...................... 129
11.6.3. Centuri de tradiţie carpato-balcanică..................... 141
147
Capitolul III. Articole de orfevrărie în ornamentarea costumului
populaţiei regiunii carpato-balcanice din secolele XIV-XVII..........
III.l. Despre unele descoperiri arheologice de textile şi elemente
metalice ale decorului vestimentaţiei.................................. 154
Concluzii.............................................................. 157
Anexa 1. Catalogul siturilor arheologice şi tezaurelor din regiunea
carpato-dunăreană, ale căror materiale au fost utilizate în lucrare.... 163
Anexa 2. Catalogul podoabelor din secolele XIV-XVII descoperite în
spaţiul dintre Prut şi Nistru.......................................... 177
Bibliografie........................................................... 215
Abrevieri.............................................................. 253
Summary................................................................ 255
Ilustraţii........................................................... 261
|
| any_adam_object | 1 |
| author | Rjabceva, Svetlana Stanislavovna 1966-2019 |
| author_GND | (DE-588)1057649910 |
| author_facet | Rjabceva, Svetlana Stanislavovna 1966-2019 |
| author_role | aut |
| author_sort | Rjabceva, Svetlana Stanislavovna 1966-2019 |
| author_variant | s s r ss ssr |
| building | Verbundindex |
| bvnumber | BV042632707 |
| ctrlnum | (OCoLC)927105352 (DE-599)BVBBV042632707 |
| era | Geschichte 1300-1800 gnd |
| era_facet | Geschichte 1300-1800 |
| format | Book |
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| geographic | Walachei (DE-588)4118956-5 gnd Moldawien (DE-588)4039967-9 gnd |
| geographic_facet | Walachei Moldawien |
| id | DE-604.BV042632707 |
| illustrated | Illustrated |
| indexdate | 2024-12-24T04:30:02Z |
| institution | BVB |
| isbn | 9786066541039 |
| language | Romanian |
| oai_aleph_id | oai:aleph.bib-bvb.de:BVB01-028065238 |
| oclc_num | 927105352 |
| open_access_boolean | |
| owner | DE-12 |
| owner_facet | DE-12 |
| physical | 375 S. zahlr. Ill., Kt. |
| publishDate | 2014 |
| publishDateSearch | 2014 |
| publishDateSort | 2014 |
| publisher | Muzeul Brăilei [u.a.] |
| record_format | marc |
| spellingShingle | Rjabceva, Svetlana Stanislavovna 1966-2019 Piese de podoabă şi vestimentaţie din Moldova şi Ţara Românească în contextul relaţiilor cultural-istorice (secolele XIV - XVII) Schmuck (DE-588)4052945-9 gnd Kleidung (DE-588)4031011-5 gnd |
| subject_GND | (DE-588)4052945-9 (DE-588)4031011-5 (DE-588)4118956-5 (DE-588)4039967-9 |
| title | Piese de podoabă şi vestimentaţie din Moldova şi Ţara Românească în contextul relaţiilor cultural-istorice (secolele XIV - XVII) |
| title_auth | Piese de podoabă şi vestimentaţie din Moldova şi Ţara Românească în contextul relaţiilor cultural-istorice (secolele XIV - XVII) |
| title_exact_search | Piese de podoabă şi vestimentaţie din Moldova şi Ţara Românească în contextul relaţiilor cultural-istorice (secolele XIV - XVII) |
| title_full | Piese de podoabă şi vestimentaţie din Moldova şi Ţara Românească în contextul relaţiilor cultural-istorice (secolele XIV - XVII) Svetlana Reabţeva |
| title_fullStr | Piese de podoabă şi vestimentaţie din Moldova şi Ţara Românească în contextul relaţiilor cultural-istorice (secolele XIV - XVII) Svetlana Reabţeva |
| title_full_unstemmed | Piese de podoabă şi vestimentaţie din Moldova şi Ţara Românească în contextul relaţiilor cultural-istorice (secolele XIV - XVII) Svetlana Reabţeva |
| title_short | Piese de podoabă şi vestimentaţie din Moldova şi Ţara Românească în contextul relaţiilor cultural-istorice |
| title_sort | piese de podoaba si vestimentatie din moldova si tara romaneasca in contextul relatiilor cultural istorice secolele xiv xvii |
| title_sub | (secolele XIV - XVII) |
| topic | Schmuck (DE-588)4052945-9 gnd Kleidung (DE-588)4031011-5 gnd |
| topic_facet | Schmuck Kleidung Walachei Moldawien |
| url | http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=028065238&sequence=000003&line_number=0001&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=028065238&sequence=000004&line_number=0002&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA |
| work_keys_str_mv | AT rjabcevasvetlanastanislavovna piesedepodoabasivestimentatiedinmoldovasitararomaneascaincontextulrelatiilorculturalistoricesecolelexivxvii |