Povijesni atlas gradova 5 Varaždin

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1. Verfasser:	Slukan Altić, Mirela 1969- (VerfasserIn)
Format:	Buch
Sprache:	Croatian
Veröffentlicht:	Bjelovar Državni Arhiv [u.a.] 2009
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Datensatz im Suchindex

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adam_text	Sadržaj: Povijesni atlas gradova 5 Historical Towns Atlas 5 Predgovor 7 L PRIRODNOGEOGRAFSKI UVJETI RAZVOJA GRADA VARAŽDINA 9 Položaj 9 Osobine reljefa 10 Hidrografski odnosi 11 Obilježja klime 23 Tlo 24 Osobine krajobraza 25 Mineralne sirovine 27 IL VARAŽDINSKI KRAJ OD NAJSTARIJIH TRAGOVA NASELJAVANJA DO PRVOG SPOMENA GRADA VARAŽDINA: ARHEOLOŠKA TOPOGRAFIJA (Marina Šimek) 29 Dokazi najstarije naseljenosti 29 Život tijekom bakrenog i ranog brončanog doba 33 Srednje brončano doba 35 Arheološki nalazi kasnog brončanog doba 36 Starije željezno doba varaždinskog kraja 37 Tragovi mlađeg željeznog doba 39 Antičko naslijede 40 Srednji vijek na varaždinskom području 43 III. URBANI RAZVOJ I PROSTORNA ORGANIZACIJA SREDNJOVJEKOVNOG VARAŽDINA 47 Povijesni kontekst nastanka grada Varaždina 47 Prve vijesti о gradu - Varaždin u važnijim srednjovjekovnim ispravama 48 Razvoj centralnih funkcija grada 50 Topografija srednjovjekovnog Varaždina 54 IV RAZVOJ I IZGRADNJA VARAŽDINA OD 16. STOLJEĆA DO DANAŠNJIH DANA 61 Varaždin u borbi za povijesnu opstojnost Hrvatskog Kraljevstva 61 Modernizacija varaždinske utvrde - Varaždin kao vrata Štajerske na planu Daniela Specklina iz 1578. 63 Varaždin nakon Zitvanskog mira na veduti Johannesa Ledentua iz 1639. godine 70 Stanje varaždinskih utvrda na planovima Martina Stiera iz 1657. godine 74 Urbanistički i kulturni procvat grada Varaždina na Donatovom planu iz 1672. 78 Feudalna utvrda i njezini odnosi s gradom na planu nepoznatog autora nastalom oko 1715. godine - Varaždin u ozračju priprema za novi habsburško-osmanski rat 84 Varaždin i njegovi zvonici na vedutama Antuna Weissa (1729) i Sigismunda Koppa (1732) 86 Slobodni i kraljevski Varaždin kao glavni grad Hrvatske u kartografskim djelima A. L. Kneidingera iz 1765./1766. godine 89 Susret urbanog i ruralnog na Kneidingerovoj karti gradskog teritorija iz 1765. godine 90 Zemljišno-vlasnički odnosi u gradu i oko njega na Kneidingerovom planu nastalom oko 1766. 94 Zlatno doba baroknog Varaždina na planu Leopolda Kneidingera iz 1766. godine 98 Vojni posjedi i raskošne varaždinske palače na Storckovom planu iz 1767. godine - posljednja slika Varaždina prije katastrofalnog požara 104 Razgraničenje feudalnog i gradskog zemljišta oko utvrde na planu Johanna Vottera iz 1770. godine 109 Katastrofalni požar 1776. godine i njegove teške posljedice 111 Obnova grada nakon požara i gradnja prvog mosta preko Drave na jozefmskoj topografskoj karti iz 1784. godine 113 Pripreme za početak planskog rušenja bedema u projektu Ignáca Beyschlaga (1802-1807) 118 Varaždin uoči rušenja stoljetnih bedema na planu Ignáca Beyschlaga iz 1807. godine 119 Grad Varaždin u napoleonsko doba na topografskoj karti iz 1813. godine 124 Parcelacija grabišta u projektima Josipa Erdélyija (1812-1818) 125 Početak urbanizacije nekadašnjih grabišta na planu Josepha Podhradczkog iz 1823. 129 Varaždin u vrijeme ilirskog preporoda - urbanistička i komunalna preobrazba grada na planu Franje Karbe nastalom oko 1840. godine 131 U vrtlogu revolucionarnih događanja 1848/49. - Varaždin na planu Franje Plochela iz 1851. godine 135 Nerealizirani prijedlog parcelacije zemljanih bedema Starog grada iz 1857. godine 140 Prema konačnom srastanju unutrašnjeg i vanjskog grada 141 U sklopu Austro-Ugarske Monarhije - Varaždin na vojnom planu iz 1894. godine 148 Početak industrijalizacije grada - nove smjernice urbanističkog razvoja Varaždina u Građevnom redu (1900) i Građevnom statutu grada (1902) 158 Prva regulatorna osnova grada Varaždina i njezina dopuna (1904,1909) 160 Mađuratno razdoblje - Varaždin kao industrijsko središte na katastarskom planu iz 1937. godine 164 Pokušaj donošenja nove regulatorne osnove grada (1940-1941) i projektiranje radničkog naselja (1941) 179 Varaždin u Drugom svjetskom ratu na planu Narodne zaštite iz 1943. godine 182 Poslijeratna obnova Varaždina i nove smjernice razvoja u Direktivnoj regulatornoj osnovi iz 1948. godine 186 Razvoj grada tijekom 50-ih i donošenje Generalnog urbanističkog plana 1959. godine 193 Prijelomne 60-e i 70-e godine - početak regulacije Drave i daljnja prostorna ekspanzija grada 199 Stagnantne osamdesete - Varaždin i okolica u procesima suburbanizacije na planu iz 1987. 207 Varaždin danas - grad za novo tisućljeće 213 V. OSOBINE ARHITEKTURE I ZAŠTIĆENA GRADITELJSKA BAŠTINA VARAŽDINA (Spomenka Težak, Miroslav Klemm) 221 Graditeljstvo srednjovjekovnog Varaždina - tragovima varaždinskog urbaniteta u razdoblju romanike i gotike 221 Gotičko-renesansna feudalna utvrda 222 Renesansni sjaj 16. stoljeća 223 Graditeljska baština 17. stoljeća 224 Naslijeđe 18. stoljeća 229 Graditeljstvo historicizma, moderne i suvremenog doba 236 Svetački kipovi u Varaždinu 245 VI. KARTOGRAFSKI IZVORI GRADA VARAŽDINA (reprodukcije karata i planova) 253 VIL BIBLIOGRAFSKI PODACI О KARTOGRAFSKIM IZVORIMA 301 VIIL BIBLIOGRAFIJA: arhivski izvori (fondovi i zbirke), objavljeni izvori, literatura 305 IX. SUMMARY 319 X. MJESNO KAZALO 335 IX. Summary The city of Varaždin, after Zagreb, is the largest city in northern Croatia and represents the regional centre of the wide Varaždin region which encompasses the whole Međimurje, upper (western) Podravina and northern part of Hrvatsko zagorje i.e. Varaždin and Međimurje counties. It is settled along the right (southern) riverbank of the River Drava on 16°20 eastern longitude and 46°18 northern latitude. During its development Varaždin had always used its favourable river crossing location and its favourable transport position in fact became one of the basic factors in its development. Its specific geographic position within the contact zone of the Pannonia and Alpine areas, during history assured the city the function of a natural connection between Styria, Međimurje and Podravina with the Adriatic. Thus it is often and with a reason called the northern gate of Croatia. Varaždin represents meeting points of various geographical units also in a micro-regional sense - as here the valley of the Drava and Varaždinsko-topličko gorje (hills) and Macelj hills meet, which gives the city competitive advantages provided by the fertile river terraces of the Drava and north-facing Tertiary hills of the surrounding peaks. Besides the geographical and transport position, the key factor of Varaždins development has always been its geo-political position. The vicinity of the border, in the past with Styria and Hungary and today with Slovenia and Hungary, along with its transport predisposition have had an important role in its development. Today the city of Varaždin over a surface of 59.45 km2 is composed of ten settlements - Črnec Biškupečki, Donji Kućan, Gojanec, Gornji Kućan, Hrašćica, Jalkovec, Kućan Marof, Poljana Biškupečka, Varaždin and Zbelava, In 2001 there lived 49,075 inhabitants in this area of whom 41,434 lived in Varaždin. The Varaždin region, with 151 inhabitants/ km2, is the most densely populated region in Croatia. Today the city of Varaždin is the centre of Varaždin County which in a nodal-functional sense forms the northern part of Zagreb s macro- region. Its powerful central functions significantly pass the borders of the county, which turns it into an economic, cultural and educational centre over the wider region. In 1965, due to its exceptional cultural-historical and environmental values, Varaždins Baroque city nucleus was protected as an important historical-urban complex and recently the procedure for candidacy for placing Varaždin on UNESCO s register of world heritage was initiated. The city of Varaždin was founded in the Middle Ages at the point where former Roman roads crossed (see map on page 47). The first mention of the city was noted in 1181 in the charter of King Bela III where it was mentioned as the seat of the mayor of Varaždin County who resided in a fortified castle - a castrum. This means that even by that time Varaždin was a significant settlement whose roots could be found at the beginning of the 12th century or even earlier. Along with its function as the centre of the county which was a royal property, a special boost was given to the development of the medieval Varaždin by the charter of Andrew II of Hungary in 1209 when Varaždin received the status of a free royal town (33 years before Zagreb!)563 This charter excluded Varaždin from the government of the royal county mayor and made к an autonomous town with its own territory which was especially stimulating for the development of trade and crafts. Thus, by the 13th century, Varaždin had become the centre of significant local trade which attracted numerous foreign colonisers (hospites). Hence from 1209 onwards (all the way to 1848), Varaždin was composed of two juridical areas distinguished in legal and physical senses. The first one was the fort (castrum) under the command of the royal county mayor564 and the second - the free royal town with its own territory and town administration (see map on page 52). 63 Monumenta historica liberae ас regiae civitatis Varasdini, Libri 1, 1, ρ 1-3. 564 An important turning point in the status of the castrum came in 1397 when Varaždins castrum was given to Herman of Celje by King Sigismund. The castrum then became a feudal manor. Ibis was the situation until 1848 when feudalism was abolished and the two jurisdictions were unified. Compare with CD, XVIII, document 168, p. 244-247. POVIJESNI ATLAS GRADOVA V. svezak - VARAŽDIN The castrum with its function as the seat or the county mayor was the administrative and political centre of Varaždin County as well as an important fortified building also represented central defensive point for a significant part of Slavonia over the centuries. The castrum also had properties inhabited by its soldiers of the castrum (iobagiones castri) and castrum serfs (castrenses). Thus in this sense the castrum was also the economic seat of the estate56 . At the same time, in the Middle Ages, the main central functions of the free royal town of Varaždin came from its privilege from 1209 which enabled its inhabitants freedom from feudal duties and in this way especially stimulated the development of trade and crafts. The development of trade and crafts was additionally stimulated by the good transport position of the city and by especially river transport. The city port on the River Drava had already been mentioned in the charter from 1209 and it had a key role in the development of the city from its early beginning566. Alongside this, not later than the 14th century, the free royal town of Varaždin had a strong church function as the centre of the parish567 and archdeacon568 and church centrality was additional stimulated by the presence of Franciscan Brothers who came to the town between 1238 and 1281 and built a monastery there (Budak, 1994; 72). Thanks to the mentioned central functions, during the developing Middle Ages and especially during the Late Middle Ages, Varaždin had outstandingly strong urban functions which assured its position or the second most important town in medieval Slavonia, immediately after Zagreb. The microlocation, as well as the inner structure of medieval Varaždin were conditioned by its transport position. Namely, the position of Varaždin s medieval urban nucleus was determined by three roads which connected Styria and Hungary i.e. Hungary and the Adriatic and which met in the town. The routes of these three roads are also clearly visible in the spatial spread of Varaždin s streets today. From the north¬ western side alongside the Drava towards Varaždin came the road which connected Styria and Slavonia (Via magna per quam itur ad TÌKOthoniam) . The route of the communication road dating from Antiquity in the area of Varaždin overlapped with today s Optujska Road, Davorin Trstenjak Street and Baron Trenk Street. From this main road, in the area or the crossroads of today s Davorin Trstenjak Street and Optujska Road the road split southwards (Via magna) which followed the route or today s Stanko Vraz Street and led towards Zagreb and further towards the Adriatic. The third road came from the west following the route of today s Radić Brothers Street (Via exercitualis) and spreading diagonally towards the northeast intersecting the first two roads. The route of this diagonal road is today preserved only at its starting point in today s Radić Brothers Street i.e. the exiting part of the route of Ivan Kukuljević Street while in the central part of the nucleus it was erased due to later urbanisation. The area bordered by the three mentioned roads was the area of the development of medieval Varaždin as a suburb of Varaždin s castrum. Taking into consideration the position of the mentioned roads and localities of the oldest public buildings of medieval Varaždin from the period of the 13th and 14th centuries, the diagonal road - Via exercitualis most probably had the function of the main street and that east of the crossroads with Via magna the suburb of Varaždin s castrum were created. Medieval Varaždin in its early years had a form of vicus — a settlement developed along an extended street-square system in a south-west - south-east direction following the route of Via exercitualis (see map on page 254). Such emergence of a primary settlement can be confirmed by the position of the oldest buildings which had central functions. One of the oldest sacral buildings in Varaždin, the Church of St. John and a cemetery, was mentioned in 1238569 in the place of todays Franciscan church. The Franciscan monastery was built alongside this church very soon after and later here was built xenodochium (domus hospitalis)570 and all were built right alongside the Via exercitualis, more precisely along the northern side of the concave square. Here it is important to mention the significant diversion in direction of the parcel division of today s Franciscan complex. Namely, today s church and monastery which were built on the basis of the medieval monastery today are positioned diagonally from the axis of the street which explicitly indicates traces of the diagonal direction of the medieval Via exercitualis. The central place of the Via exercitualis in the urban development of medieval Varaždin was also confirmed by the location of the parish church built on the southern part of the funnel- shaped square (alongside the church was the cemetery). Although in the written sources of the Parish Church of St. Wenceslas was mentioned in 1334 for the first time (about 1454 the name of the church was changed in St. Nicolas), its oldest archaeological layers originate from the 12th century and most probably represent Varaždin s oldest church. North from the funnel-shaped square the medieval castrum was built in the 12th-13th centuries with its entrance door facing north i.e. the River Drava. The bases of this castrum were founded below a quadrangle gothic tower which represents the oldest preserved part of the Varaždin fort today (see pictures on page 58). Monumenta historica liberai· ас regiae civitatis Varasdini, Libri I, 6, ρ 6. г * In 1209 Varaždin had in its territory at least two city ports, one called its main {portum Drave fluvii magni) which was near today s Svibovac (later called tmiectus Szvibozensis) and the second which was along the village Ivank, until now undetected but definitely east of the city, most certainly near Zabnik. 567 Varaždin was mentioned as the centre of the parish tor the first time in 1334 {Butimn; 1984; 103) 568 Varaždin was mentioned as the centre of the archdeacon tor the first time in 1322. Compare with CD, vol. IX, document 62, ρ 75. 569 There are some disputes about the ownership of this church either to the Brothers of St. John or Franciscan Brothers in the time before the Franciscan monastery was built 570 Monumenta historica liberae ас regiae civitatis Varasdini, Libri I, 42, ρ 46. IX. Summary Due to the strong development of trade, crafts and financial economy in general, Varaždin reached its peak during the 15th century. The rise of the town influenced its urban building as well as an important change of its inner structure. This was no more unfortified suburbs gathered around a street square. It became a well organised town with organised forts, a central square and a network of streets with defined hierarchy and functional specialisations. The most dynamic medieval period in the development of Varaždin started during the Counts of Celje who owned Varaždin s castrum from 1397 until 1456 when main urban changes happened. It was right in the time of the Counts of Celje that Varaždin received the physiognomy and function of a developed medieval town. During the 15th century Varaždin s castrum grew from a standalone fort with palisades to a complex fortified system of four square towers connected by earthen bulwarks. Namely, north from the old gothic tower three new towers were built which were completely connected by ramparts. In the time of the Counts of Celje the town (the free royal town) began significant fortification. By 1454 palisades571 were mentioned and in 1462 stone ramparts circled the town572 and two town gates, north and south573. Inside the ramparts the civil settlement was significantly changed (see map on page 255). The building of the ramparts around the civil part of the town which cut the main approaching roads to the town crucially influenced the further development of the inner structure of Varaždin. The central concave square was narrowed by the building of ramparts and gained the characteristics of a street-square (today s Franciscan Square/ Franjevački trg) and on its eastern edge a special square was created - forum publicum (today s King Tomislav s Square) at the end of the Middle Ages. Unlike the characteristically funnel-shaped form of Varaždin s main square, this new square with its rectangular ground plan and central location represents a typical late medieval square. On this square by the 15th century there was a defensive town tower alongside which was the town hall (from 1523) (King Tomislav Square 1). So, in the 16th century King Tomislav Square definitely took over the function of the main towns square and Franciscan Square (former main square) took position as a secondary square. At the same time the construction of the northern and southern town gates directed development of the town towards some of the less important streets which then received a strong development boost. In this sense from the 15rh century onwards today s Ljudevit Gaj Street received special importance which connected the northern gates with the new town s square and which along with the main town square became the most prestigious place for living. Along the northern side of the ramparts the street of craftsmen and butchers (today s Bakačeva Street) was created. In the southern part of the town, by the building of the ramparts, the Parish Church of St. Nicolas was just in front of the town s southern gate which later on conditioned the creation of a small square (today s Liberty Square/Trg slobode) from where two important streets divided - one passed in front of the church leading to the town s gate towards the castrum and which had the key role in the transport of post (todays Janko Draskovic Street) and the second led from the town s gates along the back of the church towards the main square and turned into the main trade street (todays Ivan Gundulić Street). These streets became the new frame of the town s development during the oncoming centuries. The free royal town of Varaždin also spread outside the ramparts and by the 15th century the existence of further Varaždin suburbs was documented. Along the western approach road, the old Via exercitualis (today s Radić Brothers Street) platea Milich later known as Milički konec574 was mentioned. Along the main southern approach road from the direction of Zagreb the settlement oí Longa villa or Lange gasse (today s Zagreb Road) was created575, as an extension of todays Kukuljević Street platea na Draviczi or Dravichky konecz (Drava end) was mentioned and along today s King Krešimir Street as the main road towards east the Poklečane settlement was created576. In the area of today s Optujska Road as the main approach road from the north¬ west direction the suburbs Slopanez and Cigleniza were mentioned and in 1448 it was here that the annual Varaždin fair was held577. All these mentioned suburbs were created as parts of Varaždin s urban tissue and in a functional sense they depended on the town. The turning point in the development of the town happened in the 16th century. Ottoman intrusions who, by 1552, had conquered the whole of Slavonia all the way to the River Čazma, Varaždin found itself very close to the Ottoman Empire s border. During this time the Slavonian Military Border was created from 5 captaincies with their centre in Varaždin, all with the aim of defending the rest of the territory (Kaser, 1997; 1-78) (see map on page 61). In this way in the 16th century Varaždin became the most important military fortress in Croatia and its military and defensive function became the main factor in its development. In order to adapt to the needs of defence, from 1543 to 1563 under the supervision of Domenico dell Alilo, the reconstruction of the medieval feudal castrum into a Renaissance fort with bastions, surrounded with high earthen embankments and water ditches began578. Monumenta historica liberae ас regiae civitatis Varasdini, Libri II, 2, ρ 1. Monumenta historica liberae ас regiae civitatis Varasdini, Libri, 1, 151, ρ 184. Monumenta historica liberae ас regiae civitatis Varasdini, Libri II, 278, ρ 178. Monumenta historica liberae ac regiae civitatis Varasdini, Libri II, 266, ρ 169. Monumenta historica liberae ac regiae civitatis Varasdini, Libri II, 274, ρ 174. 7 Monumenta historica liberae ac regiae civitatis Varasdini, Libri I, 132, ρ 165. 78 Steiermarkisches Landesarchiv, Militaría collection, 1544 onwards. POVIJESNI ATLAS GRADOVA V. svezak - VARAŽDIN The oldest cartographic representations found to date of the town of Varaždin, created by Daniel Specklin in 1578, shows us the state of the fortress as it was in 1568, thus, after completing of main building works on the reconstruction of the feudal fort (see map on page 256). We can see that the fort was composed of three round (rondel) Renaissance towers which were connected with housing wings and created a long inner yard surrounded by galleries with columns and arches 79. The whole fortress was surrounded by high earth embankments with spacious bastions at its corners. The ramparts were from the out and inner sides surrounded by trenches filled with the water from the River Drava. Next to the south-eastern bastion on the edge of the fortress s property was a watch tower on the floor of which were quarters for the chief guard and from where spread a mobile bridge across the ditch connecting the feudal fort with the territory of the free royal town. In this way the fortress kept its appearance with the minimum of changes until the beginning of the 19th century when its partial deconstruction began. Specklin s map gives also an insight into the state of the town s ramparts which in the meantime also passed through significant changes. Namely, works on the town s ramparts built in the 151 century continued in 1516 and lasted until the second half of the 16 1 century180. The reinforcement of the ramparts with thick layers of earth was included in the reconstruction of the town s fortification and on the corners where previously were towers were built more spacious bastions were erected and the ditches around town s forts was deepened. In this way Varaždin received a double defensive system by the half of the 16th century - the town s fortifications which defended the free royal town of Varaždin and the feudal fort as the military centre of the Slavonian Military Border which was directly attached at the town s ramparts. Although Specklin s map does not present the streets inside the town s ramparts, from the minutes of the town s magistrate we can learn that during the 16th century all today s streets and squares within the town s ramparts were created (one exception is M. Stančiós Square which was created at the end of the 18tK century). In the meantime the function of the main square was taken by the quadrangular square in the centre of the fortified town, today s King Tomislav s Square which today also represents the central point of the town. Although during the second half of the 15th and first half of the 16th century, due to the constant threat of war the number of inhabitants and numbers of the houses in Varaždin dropped, the town also developed further outside of the ramparts 1. The suburbs created in the Middle Ages along the main approach roads were still inhabited. Thanks to its strong military and defensive functions, the town s trade functions were strengthened during the 16th century. Namely, the geopolitical situation, due to Ottoman government in Slavonia, meant all trade and transport lines were diverted towards the rest of Croatia and additionally served in the development of Varaždin. Therefore, until the end of the 15th century, here was one of the largest customs offices (60% of the trade between Italy and Hungary passed through Varaždin customs office!). The strengthening of the centrality of Varaždin in the 16th century was obvious through the strengthening of its administrative functions expressed in the increase in Varaždin County s territory. Therefore despite the war surroundings in which it developed, Varaždin again began a significant spatial and demographic growth in the second half of the 16th century. With the definitive halt of the Ottoman penetration and the stabilisation of the border which marked the beginning of the return of Croatian territory after the battle at Sisak in 1593, the conditions for the development of Varaždin became more favourable. Its position was now at a more secure distance from the Ottoman border and under the conditions of the stable, peaceful period this enabled the further prosperity of trade and crafts and the cultural and political life of the town in which the role of its military functions gradually but securely would be replaced with civil urban functions. Namely, Varaždin still kept the role as the centre of the Varaždin Generalate but its craft s and trade functions had already begun to take on the dominant role in the town s development. An insight into the appearance and structure of the town in the 17th century can be found in a veduta from Johannes Ledentu from 1639 (see veduta on page 257). Based on the mentioned veduta, we can see that during the 17th century the inner town did not pass through significant functional and or morphological changes. The town had developed a network of streets created during the 15th and 16th centuries and majority of the changes were related to the gradual disappearance of the modest wooden houses which were replaced with spaciously built houses of the rich tradesmen and craftsmen and by nobles palaces which also were present in the town. The state of the fortresses mostly overlapped the state which Specklin had noted back in 1578. We can clearly recognise the feudal fort plan with the north-west and south-west bastion at the front. In detail we can follow the town s ramparts on which western side were two smaller semi-towers and on the far south-western point was the towns bastion and town s gate with its quadrangular entrance tower which mainly correspond to later representations of the town. According 574 Specklin, for some unknown reason, neglected to represent the old quadrangle gothic tower built on the southern side of the fort which was clearly represented in the later maps. wo Monumenta historica liberae ас regiae civitatis Varasdini, Libri I. 215, ρ 288. 581 According to Budak (1994; 161) Varaždin at the end or the 15th century had about 2,500 inhabitants and in the middle of the 16th century during the years of the worst crises it had between 1,200 and 1,400 inhabitants. IX. Summary to Ledentu, the urban tissue inside the town s ramparts represented the high urbanised space where considerably spacious citizens and nobles palaces took dominate positions. A massive tower with a rare cap and lantern design undoubtedly marked the tower of the town s council in the main square. A second tower represented the Church of St. Nicolas and a spacious house with a line of roof windows in the middle of the picture represents the recently built Franciscan monastery (the old one was caught in a fire in 1582). The building next to the monastery most probably represents the heavily damaged Franciscan church which during the fire of 1582 lost its bell tower (the bell tower was rebuilt in 1641 and thus is not shown). For the first time in Ledentu s veduta we can also see parts of the town outside the town s ramparts. When at the beginning of the 17th century a better reconstruction of Varaždin s suburbs began, its development did not take place primarily under the influence of the transport function of the road on which they were developed. This development happened due to the gravitational influence of the town of Varaždin. This change was obvious in the lack of exclusively longitudinal development along these roads and at the start of the concentration of their development around the ditches which surrounded the town, creating a unique suburb ring around the town s ramparts. The most important changes in Varaždin s suburbs were confirmed on Martin Stier s maps in 1657, which alongside a proposal for the upgrading of Varaždin fortresses which were never realised, also contained the building of the network of streets outside the town s ramparts (see map on page 258). A ring road, a kind of Varaždin ring as well as a string of surrounding smaller streets which flowed into it, completely overlaps the contemporaneous structure of Varaždin streets. In this way, alongside today s Stanko Vraz, Vladimir Nazor, Petar Preradović and August Cesaree streets which surround the town s ramparts, we can, for the first time see diversions towards Varaždin suburbs which create the starting point of today s streets of: north Optujska Road (at the time Slopanec, extending to Novaki), Viktor Car Emin, Branko Vodnik, Faller and Fran Kurelac; east: Kukuljević (at the time Dravički konec) and King Krešimir (at the time Poklečane); south: Anina (at the time Cagrovec), Zagreb Road (at the time Dugi konec) and Toma Blažek (at the time Platea Sancti Viti) and west: Milković and Radić (at the time Milička), Graberje and Hallers Avenue. Although represented only with signs, this dense network of streets of the outer town explicitly indicates a strong urban process which under the influence of the strengthening in the central functions of Varaždin reached its suburbs in which already by the 17th century a large part of the street structure was created and is preserved today. At the same time Varaždin s fortress compared with its state in 1578 passed through only one change related to building °f a southern entrance tower to the feudal fortress. The reason of this should be looked for in the fact that despite the function of the seat of the Generalate, the military-strategic importance of Varaždin as a defence fortress did not weaken and the maintenance of the ramparts was now exclusively dependent on the investment of the town and the county. However, Varaždin still had a certain military importance which is confirmed in the map of the town from 1672 created by the Habsburg engineer P. C. Donato which contained a new proposal for upgrading Varaždin s fortifications (see map on page 260). Donato imagined Varaždin as octagonal fortress surrounded with a double system of ramparts and bastions with ditches. Donatos proposal was more radical than Stier s and in order to implement this unique defence system, Donato proposed the complete destruction of the feudal fort and its ramparts and the encompassing of this part of land to a common system of town defence. This ambitious proposal for building a Varaždin defence system was most probably stimulated by the preparations for the liberation of Slavonia from the Ottomans but its realisation was never seriously considered. Although this proposal for the reconstruction of Varaždin s fortifications was not realised, Donato s map is important because it represents the oldest map which gives a detailed insight into the inner structure of the town. The extent of Varaždin s modern street network is already completely formed. Due to intensive urbanisation and the simultaneous lack of space bordered by the ramparts, the building of rows of street is now more or less continued which created characteristic blocks of houses which are recognisable in today s urban structure of the historical nucleus of Varaždin. The greatest change happened to the block between Paulist Street (Pavlinska ulica) and Juraj Habdelić Street on the south and Ivan Gundulić Street on the west and August Senoa Street on the east. The changes in this block are the result of the Jesuit s arrival who built a complex of their buildings there. On the corner of Paulist Street in 1637 the Jesuits built a high school and next to the high school in 1642 they began to build their monumental early Baroque Church of Mary s Ascension and by the church a monastery was built in 1655. In this way the Jesuit s complex took over the whole southern part of Paulist Street. The Jesuits influenced the transformation of the block bordering Juraj Habdelić Street on the north and south and Ivan Gundulić Street on the west where in 1668 they began to build seminary. In this way this block took on the shape it has today. In the inner part of the town Donato especially marked some other public buildings - the town s council with the central main square, the Parish Church of St. Nicolas next to the town s southern gates (today s Liberty Square/Trg slobode), the headquarters of the military government on the southern part of today s Franciscan Square and the complex of the Franciscan Church of St. John and the monastery in northern part of the square. Outside of the ramparts, in the suburbs were, for the first time, marked two churches - the Church of St. Florian (built in 1669) in the northern suburb (today s Vladimir Nazor Street) and the Chapel of St. Trinity at the beginning of today s Radić POVIJESNI ATLAS GRADOVA V. svezak - VARAŽDIN Brothers Street (in this place the Capuchin Friars built their monastery and the Church of St. Trinity in 1700) which additionally confirms the intensity in the development of Varazdin s suburbs which became an important part of the town. After the liberation of Slavonia and suppression of the border with Ottoman Empire on the River Sava (1699), Varaždin almost completely, rapidly lost its military importance. The last time Varaždin had the role as the centre of the Slavonian Military Border during the Ottoman-Habsburg War of 1716-1718. In this period the town took the role of a background military centre where large numbers of soldiers were settled and from where they were sent to the front on the River Sava. In the light of the preparation for the settlement of troops and weapon s and food supplies, on the eve of the mentioned Habsburg-Ottoman War, in 1715 a detailed map of the Varaždin feudal fortress was created with a detailed presentation of ground plan of the fortress as well as its functional organisation (see map on page 261). The castle can be observed with its characteristic ground plan with eastern extension which does not exist today. An arsenal was on the southern part (marked C) and food storage (so-called Provianthaus, marked B on the map). Between the castle and the earthen embankments we can see an inner ditch (on the map marked K ). The ramparts around the castle mainly kept their recognisable outlines. The only change we can see on the eastern edge, where the backfilling of a part of the ditch which from the outside surrounded the earthen embankments of the feudal fortress, a small rectangular mound arose where the prison is now (marked E ). Along the eastern ramparts the watch tower is marked where the quarters of the chief guard s quarters were, is represented with a large portal and drawbridge. On the rest of the bastions of the earthen fort were so-called batteries where the military crew stayed and if under the need to increase the numbers of troops on the western ramparts the possibility of building another military building was considered (marked I ). The connection of the feudal ramparts and town s wall had special markings (marked in red and the letter n ). This map contains the first mention of another monastery in Varaždin - the Sisterhood of Ursulines who in 1712 began to build their convent next to the feudal fortress in todays Ursuline Street (Uršulinská ulica). The convent is seen in a construction phase on this map. After the end of the 1716-1718 war Varaždin totally lost its military importance and in 1731 the centre of the Generalate also formally moved to Koprivnica. After this Varaždin developed exclusively as a strong trade and crafts centre which due to the large participation of the noble classes of the inhabitants as well as influential rich tradesmen who had great political powers. This was first of all reflected in the faster spatial growth of outer town while the changes in the inner town were seen through changes in the architectural styles of housing as well as in the reconstruction of most of the churches and monasteries. Under the impression of special visual identity of the town of Varaždin at the beginning of the 18th century several paintings were created (Weiss, 1729; Kopp, 1732), which document specific views of Varaždin characterised by lines of towers and bell towers which rise above the town (see paintings on pages 262,263). Joining them are the towers of town s gates, the feudal fortress and the town s council together creating quite an impressive picture of an almost festive atmosphere at the same time skilfully emphasising its political and cultural influence as well as the material status of its citizens. The strong development of trade and crafts functions during the 17th and at the beginning of the 18th centuries resulted with changes in the social structure of the town which became one of the most important seats of Croatian nobility. The political and economic rise of the town also strongly stimulated the urban-architectural changeover of Varaždin which accepted new, Baroque views announcing the golden age of Varaždin history. The middle of the 18th century signed the peak of the golden age in Varazdin s history. In 1756 the town became the centre of the Croatian Ban and in 1767 the centre of the Croatian Royal Council and in this way Varaždin took the function of the main town away from Zagreb. Numerous representatives of state administration, noblemen and church dignities then moved to Varaždin and the previously developed trade functions received additional importance. The number of Varazdin s inhabitants at the beginning of the 1770 s reached around 5,900 (Gabričević, 2002; 229). According to its new administrational functions and the great influence of the nobility, the physiognomic changeover of the town into a luxurious Baroque centre of Croatian nobility began its full momentum. Thanks to these development conditions, at the middle of the 18th century, Varaždin entered in one of the most intensive periods in its urban development. At this period several detailed maps of Varaždin were created by the surveyor Andreas Leopold Kneidinger who showed different aspects of town s development during the most glorious period of its history. Kneidinger s map from 1765 represents the borders of the territory of the free royal town of Varaždin as well as the land property of the feudal fortress known as the Varaždin manor (this estate is marked lighter on the map), detailing about very complex juridical-economic relationship in which inhabitants of Varaždin and its surroundings lived and worked (see maps on pages 264, 265). Inhabitants of the free royal town of Varaždin were free citizens, but the town also had spacious estates in the town s surrounding as can be seen on the map. These estates were inhabited by town s serfs subjects of the feudal masters. The inhabitants of Varaždin manor were serfs and in this way subjected to the feudal master of Varazdin s fortress. Citizens, noblemen, priesthoods, serfs and freemen, they all together lived in the town and its surroundings closely intertwining and contributing to the town s development. A detailed IX. Summary presentation of ownership relationships in a narrow part of the town can be seen on Kneidinger s map from 1776 (land in ownership of the free royal town was marked in red and the land belonging to the feudal fortress were marked yellow) (see map on page 266). Changes in the conditions of the town s development which in Varaždin started with taking over the function of capital city brought the inner town mainly architectural changes while the urban structure of the inner town during the 18th century remained mostly unchanged. This can be observed on Kneidinger s detailed map of the town s nucleus from 1766 where we can learn that the structure of the streets remained unchanged (see map on page 267). The greater impact of the nobility, clerks and strong tradesmen and craftsmen strata in the town, influenced the increasing numbers of luxurious Baroque palaces which were built in the places of old modest buildings in the inner town. The historical nucleus of the town was completely surrounded with moats which completely lost their defence functions. The town s ramparts were also completely preserved although for long period in a very bad state. Communications between the outer and inner towns were conducted especially through the southern and northern town s gate and in the middle of the 18th century eastern and western town s gates were created. The great spatial development of the town which happened during the 18th century was mostly reflected in the widening of its suburbs which already by the middle of the 18th century had multiple outgrew the town s nucleus. In this way in 1775 there were 614 houses in Varaždin of which 13 were noted in the inner town and 501 houses were in the outer town i.e. Varaždin s suburbs. The map of Philip von Storck from 1767 provides even more detailed insight into the structure of the inner town at the peak of its power (see map on page 268). This map was created for the needs of resolving the conflicts between the town s and the Military Border s governments which after moving from the centre of the Generalate had some properties in the town and this map contains the representation of all the houses of the inner town as well as a list of many of their owners. Based on an insight to the mentioned map, it can be observed that all the buildings with central functions with an exception of some churches and chapels were still placed in the historical nucleus. There lived the majority of the nobility, rich tradesmen, craftsmen and clerks, whilst in the outer town was the space for poorer layers of Varaždin inhabitants. In accordance with this social topography of the town, the inner part of the town was characterised with a high valuable urban and architectural environment marked with the strong influence of Baroque and Rococo styles while Varaždin suburbs with an exception of some luxurious palaces along the moats, were still very distinctly sub-urban spaces, which functionally created a unit with the town s nucleus, but in physiognomic sense are still in considerably contrast to the high-urbanised space separated by the town s ramparts. The rich and luxurious life of Varaždin suddenly came to an end in 1776. Namely, on 25th of April 1776 Varaždin was caught in a catastrophic fire which quickly spread throughout the town. Of all the 614 houses in Varaždin before the fire, only 287 houses survived of which 32 were in the inner town and 255 in the outer part. Due to the catastrophic consequences of the fire by 1st of July 1776 the centre of the Royal Council was moved from Varaždin to Zagreb582. Varaždin lost its function of capital city which before was an important boost to its urban development. With the lost of the state administrative functions, the town was abandoned by the Ban, numerous gentry, royal councillors and other state clerks and rich Varaždin craftsmen and tradesmen took over dominant political-administrative and economic roles in the town. The representation of Varaždin on the Josephinian topographic map from 1784 confirmed that the town was very soon rebuilt after the fire despite the loss of the town s main function (see map on page 270). The spatial spread of the town did not shrink after the fire. Varaždin s inhabitants, except for government and state administrators who moved to Zagreb, remained in the unfortunate town and they put all their efforts in to renewing the town. In doing so, in 1780 there were in the town 592 houses, only 22 less than on the eve of the fire583. A quick renovation was conducted inside the historical nucleus because in 1780 there was 109 houses, so only 4 less than before the fire. Nevertheless, despite the fast physical renovation of the town, the social topography especially of the inner town was changed forever. While at the time before the fire in the historical nucleus large numbers of noble families houses were listed, at the end of the 18th century here were only around 15 of them (Lentie- Kugli, 1776; 61). The map from 1784 shows Varaždin with a recognisable structure of the streets inherited from previous times. All the streets of the inner and outer towns which had existed before the fire, held their orientation through the renovation of the town. Building foundations i.e. houses were changed. The first phase of renovation which lasted during the 1770s and 1780 s was marked with the building of new houses on the basis of the old or the renewal of less damaged buildings while more luxurious palaces began to be built again at the end of the century. The town s sacral and monastery buildings were renewed. In this sense the largest reconstruction was carried out on Jesuits complex in Paulist Street which was taken over by Pauline Order in 1776 (in 1773 the Jesuit Order 582 Croatian State Archive, Croatian Royal Council, 1776, Június, No. 20. 583 Croatian State Archive, Government of the free royal town of Varaždin (1209-1830), list of the houses for the mentioned years. POVIJESNI ATLAS GRADOVA V. svezak - VARAŽDIN was abolished). Besides the nucleus which was completely renewed, Varaždin s suburbs began to spread north and south as well as towards the northwest and west. These changes in building in the outer parts of the town were conditioned by two breaking events which largely changed the conditions of Varaždin s development. The first of them came with the building of the first bridge across the River Drava near Varaždin which was finished in 1786 and became the key for development of the post transport between Zagreb and Budapest. According to this, the north¬ western part of the town along the mentioned post road (todays Ivan Kukuljević Street and Međimurska Road) became the space of the most dynamic building in the town. At the same time, due to the building of the bridge in 1784 complex works began on the regulation of the River Drava which due to its frequent flooding and its numerous tributaries impeded the spatial spread of the town northwards. On a map from 1784 the plan of intersecting the meander and filling in the old tributaries was marked with the aim to protect the bridge as well as the town itself which due to the river s irregular riverbed was very often flooded. The map of the town made by Ignatz Beyschlag in 1807 confirmed that the physical consequences of the catastrophic fire during second half of the 18 century were on the whole surpassed (see maps on pages 272, 273). Not only were all the houses renewed but a certain number of new ones were built, but during the mentioned period there occurred a significant spatial expansion of the town which first of all was visible through the expansion of Varaždin s suburbs. In 1807 Varaždin had 777 houses which meant that the town at the beginning of the 19th century had 163 houses more than at the peak of its development on the eve of the fire in 1776. Thanks to successful renovation, the town had about 7,700 inhabitants at the beginning of the 19th century. Furthermore, the fact that in the town at the end of the 18th and beginning of the 19th centuries monumental palaces began to be built again with the harmony and quality that could be compared with the best achievements of Baroque period Varaždin before the fire proves an extraordinary vitality of the town and its unbreakable economic power. The highest leap in development was achieved in the northern and north-western parts of the suburbs which in the previous period noted an outstanding dynamic growth. In this sense Slopanec (today s Optujska Road) and Ugarska (Hungarian) Road (todays Baron Trenk Street) and Ledine (today s Ante Starčević Street extending to Široke Ledine) were especially outstanding in their building and they developed thanks to the important transport function which they had in connecting the town with neighbouring Styria and Hungary. After the building of the bridge across the Drava and building of the eastern town s gate an intensive construction began in the western suburb particularly along the extension of Ivan Kukuljević Street and today s Ognjen Priča and Fran Kurelec Streets whose development was additionally stimulated by the placement of the fair around today s Zavrtnica where a spacious trading area was created. Beside in suburbs, great urbanisation was also carried out around the outer edge of the moats, where after the fire the luxurious houses of rich inhabitants replaced the older modest buildings. The significant spatial development of Varaždin within the context of its renovation after the great fire had already at the beginning of the 19th century highlighted the problem of a good connection between the inner and outer towns. The outer town whose volume had long since outgrown the inner town, was divided from the town s centre by the town s ramparts and ditches. Due to these conditions the building of the outer town was carried out first of all under the influence of the transport functions of some of the town s roads which resulted in the marked radial spread of its urban tissue along the main roads while the space between them remained unused. In order to prevent these non-economic tendencies of the further spread of the outer town solely along its approach roads it was necessary to connect the inner town with the outer. The town s thick ramparts and even wider moats which surrounded them lost their military importance during the 18th century. Thus at the beginning of the 19th century the idea of dismantling of them was reached and the valorisation of this valuable space as an area for new building of the town began. In 1802 Ignatz Beyschlag created the project for the deconstruction of the ramparts and backfilling of the moats which then started after 1807 (see map on page 271). With the deconstruction of the ramparts, the inner town whose houses, in line with the situation of the time they were built, faced inwards now backed onto the outer town where gardens and stalls were. This disharmony of inner and outer towns created after the destruction demanded a prompt re-organisation of the newly created suburbs. In fact the levelling of the former moats around the historical nucleus of the town created some extremely valuable spacious land, which gave the possibility for qualitative building which would then valorise this spacious area as the connection between the old and new parts of the town overflowing into one of the architectonically and environmentally most important parts of Varaždin. The planned parcel division and change in use of the land of the former moat already began in 1812 according to the plan created by the towns surveyor Josephus Erdélyi (see map on page 275). At the time that this proposal was created, the town s wall was almost completely ruined (its odd remains are marked with black lines) but the former houses and town s gate were still visible in place. Although a large part of the work was already carried out - the earthen embankments were knocked into the moat and levelled with the surrounding earth and in the centre of the former moat a canal for water drainage was built (marked in red). In accordance with this, special organisation of the new terrain started. According to Erdélyi s plan, the south-western and north-eastern corners of the moat (marked in brown) were dedicated to the creation of IX. Summary new town squares (the future Kapuchin and Ban Jelačić squares). With this plan the creation of some new streets was established. In this way the building of the new street in the south-eastern part of the former moat erezted todays Alojzije Stepinac Street which was a continuation of the earlier created Anina Street. Apart from Alojzije Stepinac Street, a basis for another street was created which on its western edge of todays promenade came out at August Cesaree Street and today is preserved only as a narrow footpath between the promenade and the theatre building. With the backfilling of the northern moat, August Šenoa Street gained an exit onto today s Vladimir Nazor Street which significantly facilitated the busy transport entrance into the town from the north. Edges of the moat were used for the extension of streets especially those which created the ring around the former inner town. Todays August Cesaree, Petar Preradović, Vladimir Nazor and Stanko Vraz streets were now wide with emphasised urban characteristics (marked in yellow). The revalorisation of the moat also encompassed a proposal for the deconstruction of the town s northern and southern gates i.e. the extension of the streets which from the north and south led towards the historical nucleus (sometime after 1830 the southern gate was knocked down and around 1840 so was the northern)584. As the works progressed, Erdély created a new supplemental plan for the parcel division of the moat in 1818 (see map on page 276). On this plan the Kapuchin Square (Kapucínski trg) was marked for the first time and it was planned on the south-western corner of the moat as well as a new spacious square in the north-eastern corner of the moat (today s Ban Jelačić Square). It is interesting that todays Ban Jelačić Square marked on the map as a future promenade gained the functions of the fair whilst in the south-eastern part of the former moat where a promenade was created in 1828, only the creation of a small square was planned. Whilst the northern and southern areas of the moat were mainly reserved for public purposes, the eastern and western parts were planned for house building. The division into parcels although to some extent regular, allowed scarce building with numerous gardens and kitchen gardens which turned the edges of the nucleus into a rural ambience. Although the initial building was quite slow (damp from the backfilled moats was still a sizeable problem) over the following decades the area of the moat s parcels would become highly urbanised. In this way the urban picture of the town was changed, which after more than 3 centuries has grown into a unique unit. Cartographic sources, which allow the documentation of further changes in former moat area after its division into parcels, were produced in 1823 by Joseph Podhradczky (see maps on pages 277, 278). In the meantime the walls and remains of the town s towers (a part of the wall is visible only in the south-eastern corner of the inner town) were completely erased from the town s topography. Urbanisation of the area of the former moat was not so fast. The speed of construction was affected by the significant moisture of newly organised building area. Terrain was still slightly sunken after the levelling and the canal dedicated to drain the water from this area still can be seen along the whole length of the former moat. This is the reason that urbanisation developed along the edges of the moat which slowly rose from the rest of the terrain. Thanks to the best drainage as well as its position along the road towards the very busy Drava bridge the fastest urbanisation took place near former east moat. A map of the town created by Franjo Karba around 1840 represents the continuation of the slow but sustained process in the urbanisation of the former moat (see map on page 279). In 1832, after the creation of today s Kapuchin Square on the south-western edge of the moat and to the north-west the Ban Jelačić Square (both of which had fair functions), the organisation of the first public promenade began in the area of the former moat which gave it a new, pronounced urban dimension. Plochels map of Varaždin from 1851 shows the town at the time when the abolition of feudalism occurred (1848) and the territory of free royal town and territory of feudal jurisdiction merged under the government of the town s magistrate (see map on page 280). Upon this occasion the town received a new unifying house numbering system for the first time and this was presented on Plochel s map in 1851 (before this the houses under the feudal jurisdiction had separate numbering!). From Plochel s map we learn that Varaždin had 1,918 houses in 1851 and also that the town was building further although quite slowly and mainly along existing streets on the edges of the town (the largest number of new houses were being built in the streets on the north-eastern and eastern edges of the town which were developing under the influence of the transport function of the roads which led towards the bridge on the Drava). Plochel s detailed map from 1857 shows the situation around the former feudal fortress documenting important changes in the area around today s M. Stančić Square and Ursuline Street. Namely, on this 584 Tbe realisation of the backfilling of the moat was scaled down by the Habsburg-French war which started in 1805. When the French, in 1809, took over the area around the Sava, Varaždin became Ле main traffic route between Zagreb and Vienna with its traffic position on the Drava. According to Varaždins new geostrategic role, the Austrians created an expansive project for the fortification of the area around Varaždins bridge across the Drava in 1813 (compare the map from 1813). As the Austrians had already successfully forced out the French from the whole of Croatia in 1813, the pro- posai for reinforcing Varaždins bridge was not carried out. POVIJESNI ATLAS GRADOVA V. svezak - VARAŽDIN map we can, for the first time, see that there are no more south-eastern fortress bastions which had remained alongside the guard tower at the entrance of the former feudal property. Thus Ursuline Street for the first time was extended towards the north leading right to the yard of the fortress and todays M. Stančić Square was now opened towards the west. In this way after many centuries, in juridical as well as in physical senses, the former territory of the feudal fortress and the land of the free royal town of Varaždin were joined. This change stimulated the discussion about the possibility of dismantling the remainder of the earthen embankments which still surrounded Varaždin s fortress. For this purpose Plochel, in 1857, created a project for the dismantling the remaining embankments around the fortress and the division of this area into parcels for the purposes of building housing which is represented on his map but this idea was never realised (see map on page 281). Thanks to the abandonment of this proposed operation, the town of Varaždin today has the best preserved Renaissance fortress in Croatia surrounded by its original earthen embankments. The cadastral map of Varaždin from 1860 indicates the trends in the final splicing of the inner and outer towns (see maps on pages 282, 283). The moats were already very urbanised and with the organisation of town s promenade on their southern edge (today Vatroslav Jagićs Promenade) the area of the former moat became one of the most representative parts of residential building in the middle of the 19th century as well as the place of representative public institutions. So, in today s August Cesaree Street a synagogue was built in 1861, the monumental building of the town s theatre in 1873 and the post building in 1900. In the area of former northern moat in today s Vladimir Nazor Street there was the customs office, several inns and guest houses and on Ban Jelačić s Square a market was opened. Along the former western moat (Vraz Street) there was the hospital from 1866 and the Erdödy Palace on Kapuchin Square became an army barracks. Varaždin s former suburbs now were physically connected to the towns centre although they were still contrasted by their physiognomy. The houses there were still significantly smaller, sometimes wooden and almost all of them had backyards and commercial buildings after which were gardens, fruit gardens and even farmland. This was a residential and production zone for Varaždin s inhabitants who in the middle of the 19th century along with some urban activities still held onto agricultural production. In the suburbs the first of Varaždin s manufacturing workshops appeared at the beginning of the 19th century. At the same time, the further development and building of the central part of the town was carried out through the usage of the side streets i.e. the insertion of new buildings into the already existing street structure meaning some significant changes were not visible. Generally the spatial development of the town during the 19th century was very slow. The absence of an adequate railway which Zagreb had already received in 1862 stunted the further spatial growth of the town until the beginning of the 20th century. That is to say, despite its exceptional transport position, Varaždin was amongst the last of Croatian central towns to receive a railway connection. Varaždin and Zagreb were connected by a local railway in 1886 and was connected with neighbouring Koprivnica much later in 1937 when Varaždin joined the main railway. This fact significantly weakened Varaždin s developmental possibilities, though stronger industrialisation began in the period between the two world wars. Under these kinds of conditions the spatial growth of Varaždin was also notably slowed down until the between war period. After Croatia entered the Austro-Hungarian Monarchy (1868) and with the arrival of the railway (1886), Varaždin once again took on a very strong military function. At the end of the 19th century numerous military barracks were built in Varaždin which can be observed on the map of the town from 1894 (see map on page 284). There were eight military barracks - on Kapuchin Square (marked with the number VII), in Stanko Vraz Street 27 (marked IV) in the building of former silk factory in the southern suburb (number IX), in Davorin Trstenjak Street (II), in Baron Trenk Street (V) and two military barracks in Optujska Road (I and III) along which a large military hospital was built in 1895. Another military barracks was built in 1896 in todays Juraj Križanić Street so Varaždin became one of the strongest military centres in Croatia. This map for the first time shows Varaždin after the arrival of the railway which undoubtedly had a crucial importance in the town s further development but its economic influence was limited due to fact that the railway was only local. The position of the railway along the southern and eastern edges of the town i.e. the railway station in today s Kolodvorska Street (Railwaystation Street), significantly influenced the direction of the further construction of the town as well as its further functional organisation. The position of the railway represented a barrier in the development of residential quarters. At the same time the railway stimulated the location of industrial buildings right along the southern and eastern edges of the town at the beginning of the 20th century and the railway marked the border between residential and industrial areas of Varaždin till the present day. In this way in 1902 the first functional zoning of the town was carried out according to which the space south and east from the railway was dedicated exclusively to industrial development directing the further spatial spreading of the residential functions only to the north and west of the railway (see map on page 285). These orders resulted in the construction of the first industrial buildings solely along the railway at the beginning of the 20th century. The railway had a stronger influence on the development of the town only after 1937, when Varaždin, upon the completion of the railway Varaždin-Koprivnica gained a connection to the main rail link to Budapest (see maps on pages 287, 288). With the building of the new railway, the town finally IX. Summary received adequate development stimulation after which Varaždin began its economic, demographic and spatial growth. After 1945 mainly with the strong development of textile, wood and metal industries and in recent times with the food industry, Varaždin became one of the most important industrial centres of Croatia. The after war period was marked with intensive planned social housing construction which in contrast with other Croatian towns was not characterised with exclusively multi-storey buildings (see map on page 289). Only a smaller number of residential dwellings were massive multi¬ storey buildings (represented especially in the south-western and western parts of the town) while the majority of the dwellings were comprised of family houses in accordance with the urban heritage of the town of Varaždin. New trends in the development of the town are less marked with further spatial spread of the town (mainly limited to the northern part of the town) and more suburbanisation of Varaždin s surrounding settlements which have become a main part of the Varaždin urban body. In this sense the building of the motorway Zagreb-Varaždin had an especially important role as a part of the motorway towards Budapest which stimulated the development of many economic zones in the vicinity of the town (see maps on pages 297, 298). The town of Varaždin is a modern agglomeration in over whose area around 50,000 inhabitants live. Its economic potentials are important starting points of growth for the whole of north-western Croatia and its rich historical heritage is an important part of the cultural heritage of Republic of Croatia. TOPOGRAPHIC CHRONOLOGY LEGAL STATE OF THE TOWN 1181 - Varaždin royal castrum was mentioned and it had the function as the centre of Varaždin County. Until 1848 the fortress (castrum) with its property, in the area of today s town had it own individual jurisdiction. Alongside the castrum as a suburb the settlement - the future free royal town of Varaždin, developed. - 1209 - by the deed of donation of King Andrew II, the settlement of Varaždin created alongside the castrum received the status of a free royal town with its own territory. From that date it was a separate jurisdiction from the castrum which remained governed by the county s mayor. - from 1435 despite the charter from 1209, by royal deed of donation the town came under the government of the feudal owner of the castrum - 1464 - the town coat of arms which used since ancient times was mentioned From around 1578 until 1731 - Varaždin is the centre of the Slavonian (Varaždin) Military Border (from the 17th century known as the Varaždin Generalate) 1756-1776 - Varaždin is the seat of the Croatian Ban 1767-1776 - seat of the Croatian Royal Council 1848 - the abolishment of feudalism, abolishment of feudal property ownership of the fortress which was joined to the territory of free royal town of Varaždin from 1992 - seat of Varaždin County from 1997 - seat of Varaždin Bishopric OWNERS OF THE CASTRUM (FORTRESS) from 1181 until 1397 the castrum was royal property governed by county mayor 1397-1456 - by deed of donation of King Sigismund the castrum became hereditary feudal property of the Counts of Celje from 1435 free royal town of Varaždin was mentioned as the property of the Counts of Celje 1458-1488 - town and castrum became the property of Vitovac 1489-1504 - King Matthias Corvinus gave the castrum to his son Janos 1504 - the town and castrum inherited by Corvinus s widow Beatrice 1509-1524 - the town and castrum governed by George of Brandenburg 1526-1534 - the town and castrum governed by the Báthory family 1534-1538 - the town and castrum governed by Ludovic Pekry 1543-1586 - the town and castrum governed by Ungnad family 1588-1925 - the fortress was owned by the Erdödy family from 1925 - the fortress belongs to the town NUMBER OF INHABITANTS AND HOUSES the mid 14th century about 1,600 inhabitants the mid 15th century about 2,500 inhabitants 1520 - between 1,500 and 1,800 inhabitants, 310 houses of which 107 were in the inner town - 1543 -1,200-1,400 inhabitants, 250 houses 1600 - about 2,200 inhabitants the mid 17th century - about 3,500 inhabitants the end of the 17th century - about 4,000 inhabitants - 1770 - about 5,900 inhabitants 1776 - about 6,200 inhabitants; 614 houses of which 113 were in POVIJESNI ATLAS GRADOVA V. svezak - VARAŽDIN the inner town, 245 in southern suburb and 256 in the northern suburb 1780 - about 6,500 inhabitants, 592 houses - 1807 - about 8,000 inhabitants, 737 houses - 1827 - 826 houses - 1851 -1,018 houses - 1860 - 9,500 inhabitants, 1,029 houses - 1874 -1,054 houses - 1890 - 9,994 inhabitants - 1900 - 11,700 inhabitants - 1910 - 13,398 inhabitants - 1921 -13,647 inhabitants - 1931 -12,853 inhabitants - 1948 -16,679 inhabitants - 1953 -19,341 inhabitants - 1961 - 26,460 inhabitants - 1971 - 34,312 inhabitants - 1981 - 39,316 inhabitants - 1991 - 41,846 inhabitants - 2001 - 41,434 inhabitants GREAT FIRES 27th May 1582 - the major part of the inner town and northern suburb burnt in fire 20th May 1587 - 23 houses burnt in fire in southern suburb 26th December 1587 - eastern suburb burnt 11th April 1592 - the major part of the inner town, western and southern η suburb burnt in fire 1st May 1648 - almost half of the town burnt in fire 27th March 1665 - northern and southern suburbs as well as a part of the inner town burnt in fire 7th April 1748 - 119 houses burnt in southern suburb 25th April 1776 - catastrophic fire, 327 of total 614 houses burnt in fire BUILDING OF FORTIFICATIONS (FEUDAL FORTRESS AND TOWN S RAMPARTS) 1181 - Varaždin s castrum was mentioned for the first time and it is possible that it was placed over a quadrilateral tower whose remains were encompassed in the quadrangular Gothic tower of today s fortress. In the time of the Counts of Celje (1397-1456) the existing castrum was upgraded with another three towers connected with ramparts. The fortress was surrounded by palisades and a ditch. 1458 - a granary on the south side of the castrum was erected (in the mid 16th century it was converted into an arsenal for the Varaždin Military Border) Between 1446 and 1454 palisades were built around the free royal town 1462 - the ramparts around the town as well as northern (on today Ban Jelačić Square) and southern town s gates (on today Trg slobode) appeared in documents 1543 - under the supervision of Domenico dell Alilo the upgrading of the castrum began and it was turned into a Renaissance fortress wasserburg. The main works were finished by 1563. Within the works around the fortress earth embankments with bastions were built and the whole complex was surrounded with moats. During the first half of the 16th century town s ramparts were upgraded - the town s stone walls were covered with layers of earth and bastions were built at the corners. 1592 - after a fire the feudal fortress and ramparts were renewed, the Chapel of St. Lawrence was built within the fortress. This appearance of the fortress with some a few changes is preserved to this day. About 1766 the east and west town s gates were built in the town s ramparts 1807 - the dismantling of the town s ramparts and backfilling of the moats around the town began After 1830 - the town s southern gate were knocked down About 1840 - one of the towers of the town s northern gate was dismantled (another still exists on location at Jelačić Square 2) About 1925 - the eastern wing of the old town was deconstructed 1925 - 1938 - complex renovation of the whole fortress 1983 - 1989 - complex restoration-conservation works on the fortress were carried out TRANSPORT AND COMMUNAL INFRASTRUCTURE no later than the 12th century the town developed in a triangle bordered by three important roads: to the north by the Styria- Slavonia road, to the west the road towards Zagreb and to the south the Hrvatsko Zagorje-Podravina road in the town s immediate surroundings by 1209 two important river crossings of the Drava were mentioned - near Svibovac and near the village of Ivank (next to todays village Žabnik) - from the Middle Ages to the mid-lS^ century in the town there existed two town s cemeteries - one alongside the Franciscan Church of St. John and another next to the Church of St. Nicolas IX. Summary in the mid-16th century there 19 postmen in the town - the oldest known postal building was at 3 Janko Draskovic (the 16th-19th centuries) 1773 - a communal town s graveyard was located west of the town (at todays location) 1786 - the first wooden bridge across Drava near Varaždin was built 1838 - the first public light (oil) and from 1866 run on petroleum 1886 - the railway Varaždin- Zagreb (local) and Varaždin- Cakovec was opened 1886 - the first railway bridge across the Drava was built 1895 - electric light was introduced 1899 - the town received the first telephone line 1901 - new postal building (9 Trg Slobode) 1898 - instead of wood, a new iron bridge for vehicles and pedestrians was built 1937 — Varaždin-Koprivnica railway line was opened 1945 - new vehicle bridge across the Drava was built 1953 - new railway bridge across Drava was built 1989 - building of the eastern bypass as a extension of the future Zagreb -Varaždin motorway 2003 - Zagreb -Varaždin motorway was opened CRAFT, TRADE, MANUFACTURE in the Middle Ages a centre of local trade and crafts 1406 - received the rights for staging an annual fair on St. Jacobs Day From 1498, seat of the central customs office - In the mid-15th century, 164 craftsmen in 35 businesses were in the centre of the town 1520 - 77 craftsmen in the town in 25 businesses - In the mid-16th century the butcher s guild was established (guild s minutes have been preserved since 1589) 1561 - the rules of weavers guild 1569 - the tailor s guild was mentioned 1577 - confirmed the guilds of surgeons, barbers, bathhouse owners and furriers 1589 - potters guild was mentioned - At the end of the 16th century 330 craftsmen in 41 businesses were in the town - From the 17th century the town had a towns brickyard and brewery - At the beginning of the 17th century in the town were guilds of goldsmiths, bakers, blacksmiths, wheelwrights and hatters 1775 - in the town were 264 craftsmen and 28 tradesmen with assistants About 1766-1850 - in the town was a silk spinning mill (Tin Ujević Street) 1784 - in the town were 273 craftsmen who employed 290 journeymen and 103 apprentices - 1774-1850 - tobacco factory 1827 - in the town were 353 craftsmen INDUSTRY (A SELECTION) 1893 - the Mundus folding furniture factory (27 Zagrebačka Road), from 1954 works in Pavlek Miškina Street 1895 - Town s power station (76 Zagrebačka Road) - 1902 - Textile Factory Ltd. (78 Zagrebačka Road), from 1948 known as Varteks, working today 1922-1946 - Vjekoslav Halužan leather factory (Poklečane) 1929 - Varaždin Silk Factory Ltd. (2 Svilarska Street), working today 1937 - Varaždin weaving cones factory (22 Ivan Kukuljević Street) working today in Pavlek Miškina Street 1937 - Martinušič leather factory (Pavlek Miškina Street), after 1946 Varaždin leather industry, working today 1947 - Varaždin shoes industry (31 Međimurska Road), working today 1939 - First Varaždin foundry from 1946. Foundry and factory of armature, today works as Metal industry of Varaždin (33 Fabijanska Street) 1959 - Food factory Vindija, working today (6 Međimurska Street) 1961 - Koka poultry food factory, today a part of Vindija SACRAL BUILDINGS Church of St. Nicolas (Trg slobode/Liberty Square) the oldest remains of the church originated from the 12th century 1334 the oldest written note of the parish church (mentioned under the title of St. Wenceslaus) About 1454 - in the place of the old Parish Church of St. Wenceslaus the new parish church was built under the title of St. Nicolas, on the northern side of the church from 1773 was the town s cemetery with the Chapel of St. Michael 1582 - Church of St. Nicolas was heavily damaged in the fire 1592 - the church was damaged again in the fire and reconstructed after that POVIJESNI ATLAS GRADOVA V. svezak - VARAŽDIN 1751-1760 in the place of the old town a new Church of St. Nicolas was built and it still stands today 1761 - new parish house was build (at the place of the old one) next to the church and it still stands today The Church of St, John the Baptist with Franciscan monastery (Franjevački trg/ Franciscan Square) 1238 the Church of St. John was first mentioned (established by the Order of St. John or Franciscan Friars), at today s location, with a cemetery on the western side of the church Between 1238 and 1281 - the Franciscans came to the town and they built their monastery north of the Church of St. John 1582 - the buildings of the monastery and the church were burnt in a catastrophic fire, the Franciscans continued ceremonies in the parish church 1626-1630 - in the place of the old a new Franciscan monastery was built 1641 - new tower along the Church of St. John was built 1650-1655 - building of the new Franciscan church on the place of the old one 1665-1678 - renovation of the Franciscan monastery (the floor was improved) Jesuit/Pauline Church of Mary s Ascension with the monastery (Pavlinska ulica/ Paulist Street) 1628 -Jesuits arrived in Varaždin At the location of today s monastery after the arrival, later in 1655 the Jesuits built a residence which in 1678 was risen to the status of college 1642-1646 - the Jesuits Church of Mary s Ascension was built at today s location 1674-1676 - the tower was built next to the church 1679-1691 - west of the church Jesuits built a new monastery which still stands today 1668-1672 -Jesuits built the seminary (4 Juraj Habdelić Street), still stands today 1676 -Jesuits church tower renewed 1773 -Jesuits order was abolished 1776 - church and monastery burnt in fire and then rebuilt 1776-1786 - the church and monastery were taken over by a Pauline Order 1788-1797 - church was used as imperial granary for the army 1797 - the church was again used as a church 1809 - the monastery was used as a hospital 1860 - the church was renewed 1985-1989 - restoration-conservation works on the church 1976 - the building of the monastery was adapted for the purposes of the Faculty which works today 1997 - the church became the cathedral of the Varaždin Bishopric Chapel of St. Mary s Congregation (Pavlinska ulica/ Paulist Street) built in 1731 as the chapel for the German minority 1776 - collapsed in fire 1825 -joined to the high school building Chapel of Our Lady of Loreto (Pavlinska ulica/ Paulist Street) built in 1685 alongside the high school building 1776 - burnt in fire 1825 -joined to the high school building Ursuline Church of Jesus Birth with the monastery (Uršulinská ulica/ Ursuline Street) 1703 - Ursuline Order came to Varaždin 1712-1746 - monastery was built at today s location 1722-1729 - monastery church was built at today s location 1772 - south wing of the monastery was built 1894 - improvement of the eastern façade 1989 - the monastery and church were renovated, still existing today Church of St. Florian (Vladimir Nazor Street) 1669-1672 it was built as a wooden votive church against fire 1733 - the wooden church was destroyed 1738-1752 - at the place of the old church a new church was built 1776 - the church was damaged in a fire 1777 - the renovation of the façade and building of the new tower renewed in 1870 still exists and restoration and renovation are still on going Church of St. Trinity with Capuchin monastery (Kapucínski trg/ Kapuchin Square) 1593 - it was mentioned as a wooden chapel in the suburb of IX. Summary Milička 1701Ί702 - Capuchins built the monastery (from 1697 till that time they had lived in a private house) 1701-1705 - along the monastery Capuchins built a new Church of the Holy Trinity at the place of the Chapel of the Holy Trinity, the church and monastery still exist Orthodox Church of St. George (Banjelačić Square) 1884 - built still stands today Church of St. Vitus ( Vidovski trg/ St Vitus Square) 1454 - the first note of the wooden Church of St. Vitus in the southern suburb of Varaždin at todays location, alongside the church was a cemetery 1582 - ruined in a fire and later renovated as a wooden church 1748 - damaged in a fire 1751 - the new brick church built at the place of the old one 1776 - ruined in a fire 1778 -1782 - renovated, new tower built 1965 - renewed (still exists today) Chapel of St. Fabian and Sebastian (Optujska Road) 1681 - built as a wooden votive chapel against the plague at today s location 1776 - burnt in fire 1777 - a brick chapel was built at the same place - 1796,1806 - upgraded 1984-1985 - restoration and conservation works conducted Cemetery Chapel of St. Michael 1588 - the oldest note of the church s existence in the cemetery along the Church of St. Nicolas 1773 - destroyed when the cemetery was moved Chapel of St. Lawrence in the fortress (Šetalište J.J. Strosmayera/ J. J. Strosmayer Promenade) - 1592 - the Count of Erdödy built the Chapel of St. Lawrence which still exists today Chapel of St. Rocco (Zagrebačka Road) 1666 - mentioned in the suburb of Dugi Konec 1715 - at the place of the old a new votive chapel against the plague was built and still exists today Synagogue (August Cesaree Street) 1812 - the first synagogue was built at the address 26 Ivan Kukuljević Street 1861 - the building of the new synagogue in August Cesaree Street was completed (devastated in 1941) recently renewed and turned into an art gallery EDUCATION AND CULTURE Elementary education school within the parish house existed probably from the end of the 14th century, it is presumed that it was in the area of today s Školska ulica (School Street) 1520 - the first town s teacher is mentioned The 17th-18th centuries - school worked in a building at 12 Trg Slobode 1826-1875 -Jewish school (in 1875 it was joined to the General Public School) 1843 - a floor built on the existing school building at 12 Trg Slobode 1875 - school (General Public Boy s School) moved to the building of the former high school in Paulist Street 1886-1947 - apprentice s school ran 1933 - elementary school was built in King Krešimir Street ( Varaždin s I. elementary school today) 1933-1963 - for the needs of the northern part of the town an elementary school was built in Davorin Trstenjak Street (Varaždin s IV elementary school today) 1953 - for the needs of the north-western part of the town an elementary school in Haller s Avenue was built (former Mineworker s School) 1958 - elementary school moved from the old high school building in Paulist Street in 10 August Cesaree Street (Varaždin s II elementary school today) 1967 - for the needs of the southern part of the town an elementary school in Dimitrije Demeter Street was built (Varaždin s VI elementary school today) 1963 - for the needs of the V elementary school of Varaždin a new school building was built in Fran Kurelac Street POVIJESNI ATLAS GRADOVA V. svezak - VARAŽDIN 1982 - a new building for the IV elementary school of Varaždin was built in A. M. Reljković Street Girls school at the beginning of the 18th century the Ursuline Order within the monastery in Ursulin Street started the Girls School and in 1775 they built a new building as a convent 1874 - Girls High School was established which from 1875 moved to the building of the former boys school (12 Trg Slobode) 1901 - Girls School moved to the adapted building of the old high school in Paulist Street High school 1636 - the Jesuits High School was established in a wooden building at 4 Paulist Street 1648 - the wooden high school building was burnt 1651 - at the place of the old one a new brick one storey building was built (today the Bishop s Office) 1825 - upgrading of the building and annexation with the former Chapel of Mary s Congregation 1867-1870 - a new building of the high school was built on the corner of Paulist and Petar Preradović Streets (still existing today) 1925-1945 - Franciscan Classic s High School with public rights (10 August Cesaree Street) 1940-1945 - Ursuline girl s high school (within the Ursuline Convent) Higher education Political- cameral studies (3 Strossmayer 1769-1776 Promenade) from 1976 - Faculty of Organisation and Informatics (Paulist Street), still exists today Theatre and library the first theatre performances were staged in the high school from 1636 1768-1770 - Count Patacie bought land at todays 2 Miljenko Stančić Square with the intention of building the first public theatre but he gave up in 1770 At the beginning of the 19th century (before 1827) a theatre was open at 4 Silvije Strahmir Kranjčević Street 1838. - first reading room was opened (Franciscan Square 6) 1873 - a new theatre was built, today the building of the National Theatre (1 August Cesaree Street) From 1945 the library and reading room were in the theatre building (8 Trg Slobode) MEDICAL SERVICE from the 14th century till 1776 - alongside the Church of St. John was xenodochium 1454 - in the town there were 5 bathhouses from 1462 physicians were mentioned in the town from the mid-16th century military surgeons and healers were in the town 1603 - the first pharmacy was opened in the town 1677 - within the Franciscan monastery the first public pharmacy was opened and worked until 1772 1776 - the hospice (xenodochium) moved from Franciscan Square to 26 Vladimir Nazor Street in the first half of the 19th century the first public baths were opened (Petar Preradović Street) 1839-1895 - the military hospital worked at 10 France Prešern Street 1830-1866 - the first private hospital at 48 Baron Trenk Street 1895 - the new Military Hospital was built in Optujska Road 1898 - the first Public Town Hospital 57 Radić Brothers Street was built and upgraded and still exists today - About 1950 - the Town s Polyclinic at 20 Kolodvorska Street, works today as the Home of Health for Varaždin County
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title_full	Povijesni atlas gradova 5 Varaždin Mirela Slukan Altić
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title_full_unstemmed	Povijesni atlas gradova 5 Varaždin Mirela Slukan Altić
title_short	Povijesni atlas gradova
title_sort	povijesni atlas gradova varazdin
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Povijesni atlas gradova 5 Varaždin

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