Fashion critical and primary sources
Gespeichert in:
| Format: | Buch |
|---|---|
| Sprache: | English |
| Veröffentlicht: |
Oxford [u.a.]
Berg
|
| Ausgabe: | 1. publ. |
| Schlagworte: | |
| Online-Zugang: | Inhaltsverzeichnis |
| Tags: |
Tag hinzufügen
Keine Tags, Fügen Sie den ersten Tag hinzu!
|
MARC
| LEADER | 00000nam a2200000 ca4500 | ||
|---|---|---|---|
| 001 | BV035341405 | ||
| 003 | DE-604 | ||
| 005 | 20150619 | ||
| 007 | t| | ||
| 008 | 090303nuuuuuuuuxx |||| 00||| eng d | ||
| 020 | |a 9781847882929 |c (hbk.) : £550.00 |9 978-1-84788-292-9 | ||
| 035 | |a (OCoLC)643675322 | ||
| 035 | |a (DE-599)GBV572460325 | ||
| 040 | |a DE-604 |b ger |e aacr | ||
| 041 | 0 | |a eng | |
| 084 | |a LC 12000 |0 (DE-625)90621:772 |2 rvk | ||
| 245 | 1 | 0 | |a Fashion |b critical and primary sources |c ed. by Peter McNeil |
| 250 | |a 1. publ. | ||
| 264 | 1 | |a Oxford [u.a.] |b Berg | |
| 336 | |b txt |2 rdacontent | ||
| 337 | |b n |2 rdamedia | ||
| 338 | |b nc |2 rdacarrier | ||
| 648 | 7 | |a Geschichte |2 gnd |9 rswk-swf | |
| 650 | 0 | 7 | |a Mode |0 (DE-588)4039792-0 |2 gnd |9 rswk-swf |
| 655 | 7 | |0 (DE-588)4002214-6 |a Anthologie |2 gnd-content | |
| 689 | 0 | 0 | |a Mode |0 (DE-588)4039792-0 |D s |
| 689 | 0 | 1 | |a Geschichte |A z |
| 689 | 0 | |5 DE-604 | |
| 700 | 1 | |a McNeil, Peter |d 1966- |e Sonstige |0 (DE-588)132470209 |4 oth | |
| 856 | 4 | 2 | |m Digitalisierung UB Augsburg - ADAM Catalogue Enrichment |q application/pdf |u http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=017145697&sequence=000002&line_number=0001&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA |3 Inhaltsverzeichnis |
| 943 | 1 | |a oai:aleph.bib-bvb.de:BVB01-017145697 | |
Datensatz im Suchindex
| DE-BY-UBM_katkey | 4065437 |
|---|---|
| _version_ | 1823054244213686272 |
| adam_text | CONTENTS
VOLUME 1
LATE MEDIEVAL
TO RENAISSANCE
Preface
xiii
Editor s Introduction
xix
Part i: Graceful or Magnificent: Fashion and Aesthetics
1.
Costume and Fashion
3
Fernand Braudel
2.
Fashion in French Crusade Literature: Desiring Infidel Textiles
19
Sarah-Grace Heller
3.
Art and Life
34
Johan
Huizinga
4.
The Medieval Aesthetic Sensibility
39
Umberto
Eco
5.
Society and Festivals
49
Jacob Burckbardt
6.
Order and Fashion in Clothes: The King, His Household, and the
City of London at the End of the Fifteenth Century
57
Anne F. Sutton
7.
Summer: The Last Century
83
Timothy Brook
vi
CONTENTS
Part
2:
Fashion, Appearance and Cultural Order
8.
Between Clothing and Nudity
95
Mario Perniola
9.
Women and Sumptuary Law
110
Catherine Kovesi
10.
The Upward Training of the Body from the Age of
Chivalry to Courtly Civility
130
Georges Vigarello
11.
The Renaissance Beard: Masculinity in Early Modern England
163
Will Fisher
12.
Appearances
190
Georges Vigarello
Part
3:
Fashion s Forms
-
Customs and Foreigners
13.
The Devil and His Striped Clothes: 13th-!6th Centuries
203
Michel
Pastoureau
14.
Venice and the Dress of Foreigners
222
Stella Mary Newton
15.
Costume and the Boundaries of Bodies
234
Bronwen Wilson
16.
Sewing Connections: Elizabeth Tudor, Mary Stuart, Elizabeth
Talbot,
and Seventeenth-Century Anonymous Needleworkers
263
Susan Fry
e
17.
Feathers and Flies: Aphra Behn and the Seventeenth-Century
Trade in Exotica
279
Margaret W. Ferguson
Part
4:
Trading in Looks
18.
Clothing Provision and the Great Wardrobe in the
Mid-Thirteenth Century
299
Kay Staniland
19.
The Currency of Clothing
315
Ann Rosalind Jones and Peter Stallybrass
20.
Gendered Space in Renaissance Florence: Theorizing Public and
Private in the Rag Trade
342
Carole Collier Frick
21.
The Economics of Clothing in the Late Seventeenth Century
357
N.B. Harte
CONTENTS
vii
22.
The Cost of Apparel in Seventeenth-Century England, and the
Accuracy of Gregory King
380
Margaret Spufford
Part
5:
Fashion and Reinforcement
23.
Looks and Appearance
411
Baldesar Castiglione
24.
Gesture, Ritual and Social Order in Sixteenth- to
Eighteenth-Century Poland
413
Maria Bogucka
25.
Prescribing Fashion: Dress, Politics and Gender in Sixteenth-Century
Italian Conduct Literature
427
Elizabeth Currie
26.
Masculine Apparel
444
Stephen
Orgel
27.
To Fashion a Self: Dressing in Seventeenth-Century England
452
Sue Vincent
28.
Twisted Poses: The Kabuku Aesthetic in Early
Edo
Genre Painting
470
John T. Carpenter
VOLUME
2
THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY
Preface
vii
Editor s Introduction
xiii
Part
1:
The Power of Dress
1.
The Cavaliers and the Parvenus as Imitators of the Court
3
Werner Sombart
2.
Lord Chesterfield s Letters to His Son
16
The Earl of Chesterfield
3.
Regrets on Parting with My Old Dressing Gown, or,
A Warning to Those Who Have More Taste than Money
22
Denis
Diderot
4.
Eros and Liberty at the English Masquerade,
1710-90 26
Terry Castle
viii CONTENTS
5.
Freedom of Dress in Revolutionary France
42
Lynn Hunt
Part
2:
Fashion
-
Art-Artifice
6.
The Purged Century
61
Piero Camporesi
7.
Popular Dress
68
Daniel Roche
8.
Image-Object-Space
98
Katie Scott
9.
The Artistic Expression of Iki
108
Kuki
Shûzô *
10.
Street Style: Dress in John Gay s Trivia
116
Aileen
Ribeiro
11.
Nature and Artifice
131
Georges Vigarello
12.
Fleshing Out the Revolution
140
Ewa
Laj
er-Bur
ch
arth
Part
3:
Fashion and the Appearance Industries
13.
Consumer Behaviour, Textiles and Dress in the
Late Seventeenth and Early Eighteenth Centuries
159
Lorna Weatherill
14.
European Consumption and Asian Production in the
Seventeenth and Eighteenth Centuries
176
JohnE. Wills, Jr
15.
Taxes upon Consumable Commodities
187
Adam Smith
16.
The Queen and Her Minister of Fashion : Gender,
Credit and Politics in Pre-Revolutionary France
192
Clare Haru Crowston
17.
The Production and Marketing of Populuxe Goods in
Eighteenth-Century Paris
216
Cissie Fairchilds
18.
Developing Consumerism and the Ready-made
Clothing Trade in Britain,
1750-1800 241
Beverly
Lentire
CONTENTS ix
19.
Involuntary Consumers? Servants and Their Clothes in
Eighteenth-Century England
266
John Styles
VOLUME
3
THE NINETEENTH CENTURY
Preface
ix
Editor s Introduction
xv
Part i: Fashion and Urban Life
1.
Adolf Loos and the English Dandy
3
Jules Lubbock
2.
The Treatises of Dandyism
19
Rhonda K. Garelick
3.
The Invisible Flaneur
56
Elizabeth Wilson
4.
The Actress: Covent Garden and the Strand
1880-1914 78
Christopher Breward
5.
The Suffrage Response
106
Joel H. Kaplan and Sheila Stowell
6. Tigersprung:
Fashioning History
132
Ulrich Lehmann
Part
2:
From the Love of Finery to Honest Cloth
7.
The Love of Finery: Fashion and the Fallen Woman in
Nineteenth-Century Social Discourse
155
Mariana
Valverde
8.
The Exquisite Slave: The Role of Clothes in the Making
of the Victorian Woman
175
Helene
E.
Roberts
9.
Dress Reform as Antifeminism: A Response to
Helene
E. Roberts s
The Exquisite Slave: The Role of Clothes in the Making of the
Victorian Woman
188
David Kunzle
CONTENTS
10.
Reply to David Kunzle s Dress Reform as Antifeminism:
A Response to
Helene E. Roberts s
The Exquisite Slave (vol.
2,
no.
3) 198
Helene
E.
Roberts
11.
Fashion
-
Jewellery
200
Marguerite
de Ponty
(Stéphane Mallarmé)
12.
Fashion
204
Marguerite de
Ponty
(Stéphane Mallarmé)
13.
Consuming Kashmir: Shawls and Empires,
1500-2000 207
Michelle Maskiell
14.
The Management of Colour: The Kashmir Shawl in a
Nineteenth-Century Debate
241
David Brett
«
15.
Sartorial Ideologies: From Homespun to Ready-Made
252
Michael Zakim
16.
Cheap Mass-Produced Men s Clothing in the Nineteenth and
Early Twentieth Centuries
288
Sarah Levitt
Part
3:
Nineteenth-Century Fashion as Female Culture
17.
Invisible Clothing
305
Philippe Perrot
18.
Wool Cloth and Gender: The Use of Woollen Cloth in
Women s Dress in Britain, 1S65-85
331
Lou Taylor
19.
Materializing Mourning: Hair, Jewellery and the Body
345
Marcia Pointon
20.
Femininity and Consumption: The Problem of the
Late Nineteenth-Century Fashion Journal
359
Christopher Breward
21.
A Dream of Fair Women : Revival Dress and the Formation of
Late Victorian Images of Femininity
377
Margaret Maynard
22.
Femme Fatale:
Fashion and Visual Culture in
Fin-de-siècle
Paris
394
Valerie Steele
23.
Sex and the City: Metropolitan Modernities in English History
406
Margot
Finn
I
CONTENTS xi
VOLUME 4
THE TWENTIETH
CENTURY
TO
TODAY
Preface
ix
Editor s Introduction
xv
Part
і:
Fashion s Structures
1.
Dress as an Expression of the Pecuniary Culture
3
Thorstein
Veblen
2.
The Philosophy of Fashion
14
Georg Simmel
3.
The Economic and Social
Rôle
of Fashion
38
Pierre Clerget
4.
The Cerementing of the Gentleman
48
Gerald Heard
5.
The Predominance of Male Homosociality
52
J.C.
Flügel
6.
Epilogue on Trousers
55
Eric Gill
7.
The Functions of Folk Costume in Moravian Slovakia: Introduction
60
Petr
Bogaty
rěv
8.
An Economic Interpretation of Women s Fashions
62
Paul M. Gregory
Part
2:
Fashion and Fantasy
9.
Themes in Cosmetics and Grooming
79
Murray Wax
10.
The Economics of Fashion Demand
87
Dwight E. Robinson
11.
From
Gemstones
to Jewellery
107
Roland Barthes
Part
3:
Fashion and Identity
12.
Fashion: From Class Differentiation to Collective Selection
115
Herbert Blunter
xii CONTENTS
13.
Why the Midi Failed
131
Fred
D. Reynolds and
William
R.
Darden
14.
The Production of Belief: Contribution to an Economy of
Symbolic Goods
140
Pierre Bourdieu
15.
Fashion Shapes: Film, the Fashion Industry, and the Image of Women
149
Maureen
Turim
16.
Other People s Clothes? The International Second-Hand
Clothing Trade and Dress Practices in Zambia
163
Karen
Tranberg Hansen
Part
4:
Fashion and Aesthetics
17.
To Cut is to Think
187
Germano
Celant
18.
Illuminations
-
Warhol in the
1
950s
193
Richard Martin
19.
The Golden Dustman: A Critical Evaluation of the Work of
Martin Margiela and a Review of Martin Margiela Exhibition
(9/4/1615) 201
Caroline Evans
20.
Art, Fashion and Music in the Culture Society
211
Angela McRobbie
21.
Vionnet
&:
Classicism
228
Rebecca Arnold
22.
Paul Poiret s Minaret Style: Originality, Reproduction,
and Art in Fashion
243
Nancy
J
.
Troy
23.
Hollywood Glamour and Mass Consumption in
Postwar Italy
261
Stephen Gundle
24.
Magic Fashion
283
Elizabeth Wilson
Appendix of Sources
293
|
| any_adam_object | 1 |
| author_GND | (DE-588)132470209 |
| building | Verbundindex |
| bvnumber | BV035341405 |
| classification_rvk | LC 12000 |
| ctrlnum | (OCoLC)643675322 (DE-599)GBV572460325 |
| discipline | Sozial-/Kulturanthropologie / Empirische Kulturwissenschaft |
| edition | 1. publ. |
| era | Geschichte gnd |
| era_facet | Geschichte |
| format | Book |
| fullrecord | <?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?><collection xmlns="http://www.loc.gov/MARC21/slim"><record><leader>01292nam a2200337 ca4500</leader><controlfield tag="001">BV035341405</controlfield><controlfield tag="003">DE-604</controlfield><controlfield tag="005">20150619 </controlfield><controlfield tag="007">t|</controlfield><controlfield tag="008">090303nuuuuuuuuxx |||| 00||| eng d</controlfield><datafield tag="020" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="a">9781847882929</subfield><subfield code="c">(hbk.) : £550.00</subfield><subfield code="9">978-1-84788-292-9</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="035" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="a">(OCoLC)643675322</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="035" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="a">(DE-599)GBV572460325</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="040" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="a">DE-604</subfield><subfield code="b">ger</subfield><subfield code="e">aacr</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="041" ind1="0" ind2=" "><subfield code="a">eng</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="084" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="a">LC 12000</subfield><subfield code="0">(DE-625)90621:772</subfield><subfield code="2">rvk</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="245" ind1="1" ind2="0"><subfield code="a">Fashion</subfield><subfield code="b">critical and primary sources</subfield><subfield code="c">ed. by Peter McNeil</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="250" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="a">1. publ.</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="264" ind1=" " ind2="1"><subfield code="a">Oxford [u.a.]</subfield><subfield code="b">Berg</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="336" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="b">txt</subfield><subfield code="2">rdacontent</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="337" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="b">n</subfield><subfield code="2">rdamedia</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="338" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="b">nc</subfield><subfield code="2">rdacarrier</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="648" ind1=" " ind2="7"><subfield code="a">Geschichte</subfield><subfield code="2">gnd</subfield><subfield code="9">rswk-swf</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="650" ind1="0" ind2="7"><subfield code="a">Mode</subfield><subfield code="0">(DE-588)4039792-0</subfield><subfield code="2">gnd</subfield><subfield code="9">rswk-swf</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="655" ind1=" " ind2="7"><subfield code="0">(DE-588)4002214-6</subfield><subfield code="a">Anthologie</subfield><subfield code="2">gnd-content</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="689" ind1="0" ind2="0"><subfield code="a">Mode</subfield><subfield code="0">(DE-588)4039792-0</subfield><subfield code="D">s</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="689" ind1="0" ind2="1"><subfield code="a">Geschichte</subfield><subfield code="A">z</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="689" ind1="0" ind2=" "><subfield code="5">DE-604</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="700" ind1="1" ind2=" "><subfield code="a">McNeil, Peter</subfield><subfield code="d">1966-</subfield><subfield code="e">Sonstige</subfield><subfield code="0">(DE-588)132470209</subfield><subfield code="4">oth</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="856" ind1="4" ind2="2"><subfield code="m">Digitalisierung UB Augsburg - ADAM Catalogue Enrichment</subfield><subfield code="q">application/pdf</subfield><subfield code="u">http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=017145697&sequence=000002&line_number=0001&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA</subfield><subfield code="3">Inhaltsverzeichnis</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="943" ind1="1" ind2=" "><subfield code="a">oai:aleph.bib-bvb.de:BVB01-017145697</subfield></datafield></record></collection> |
| genre | (DE-588)4002214-6 Anthologie gnd-content |
| genre_facet | Anthologie |
| id | DE-604.BV035341405 |
| illustrated | Not Illustrated |
| indexdate | 2025-02-03T17:14:18Z |
| institution | BVB |
| isbn | 9781847882929 |
| language | English |
| oai_aleph_id | oai:aleph.bib-bvb.de:BVB01-017145697 |
| oclc_num | 643675322 |
| open_access_boolean | |
| publishDateSort | 0000 |
| publisher | Berg |
| record_format | marc |
| spellingShingle | Fashion critical and primary sources Mode (DE-588)4039792-0 gnd |
| subject_GND | (DE-588)4039792-0 (DE-588)4002214-6 |
| title | Fashion critical and primary sources |
| title_auth | Fashion critical and primary sources |
| title_exact_search | Fashion critical and primary sources |
| title_full | Fashion critical and primary sources ed. by Peter McNeil |
| title_fullStr | Fashion critical and primary sources ed. by Peter McNeil |
| title_full_unstemmed | Fashion critical and primary sources ed. by Peter McNeil |
| title_short | Fashion |
| title_sort | fashion critical and primary sources |
| title_sub | critical and primary sources |
| topic | Mode (DE-588)4039792-0 gnd |
| topic_facet | Mode Anthologie |
| url | http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=017145697&sequence=000002&line_number=0001&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA |
| work_keys_str_mv | AT mcneilpeter fashioncriticalandprimarysources |