Audumi Latgalē 20. gadsimtā
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| Format: | Buch |
| Sprache: | Russian Latvian English |
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[Riga]
Tautas Mākslas Centrs
2008
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| 500 | |a Zsfassung in engl. und russ. Sprache. - Engl. Zsfassung u.d.T: Textiles in Latgale in the 20th century | ||
| 648 | 4 | |a Geschichte 1900-2000 | |
| 648 | 7 | |a Geschichte 1900-2000 |2 gnd |9 rswk-swf | |
| 650 | 4 | |a Geschichte | |
| 650 | 4 | |a Textile fabrics |z Latvia |z Latgale |x History |y 20th century | |
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Datensatz im Suchindex
| _version_ | 1819678981385879552 |
|---|---|
| adam_text | Saturs
Ievads 7
Avoti 9
Lietiskie pieminekli 9
Rakstïtie
avoti 9
Folklora
13
Tautasdziesmas 13
Valodas liedbas 14
Dažädu materiálu
publikãcijas
15
1.
nodala
Audëji
un
vinu
darba
raksturs
20
Mäjamatnieces
20
Amatnieces
(-ki)
23
Mäjrupnieces
28
Tautas dailamata meistari
28
Arodapmâcïba
37
2.
nodala
Aužanas
darbarïki un panëmieni
51
Pavedienu
gatavošanas
rîki
51
Tisanas
rîki
51
Uzvilkšanas
rîki
54
Velku
spoles
54
Spolu
rãmji
55
Mešana uz
sienas
55
Velku
sakartoŠanas riki
56
Velku
koki
57
Velku
dalïtâjs
59
Aušanas
rîki un
iekärtas 60
Aužamie
stavi
62
Stativi
62
Škerši
66
Vekni
66
Škiets
67
Sistava
68
Nîtis
69
Paminas
71
Sviraš
72
Audu ieaušanas riki
75
Sêdeklis
ΊΊ
Palïgdarbarïki
ΊΊ
Riekums
ΊΊ
Skali
ΊΊ
Lumsti
78
Platumturis
78
Starpnieki
78
Izejmateriãlu sagãde
Ί9
Vilna
79
Lini
81
Kanepäji
81
Meldri, salmi,
luki
81
Lupatas
81
Balinäšana
82
Kräsošana
84
Gludinäšana
un
velšana
91
3.
nodaja
Audumi
un to
izmantošana
93
Audëju
darba
panëmieni
93
Apgërba
audumi
96
Šaurie
apgërba
audumi
99
Jostas
99
Pîtenes un
mežgites
100
Celaines
100
Aulejas jostas
100
Audenes
100
Platie
apgërba
audumi
102
Kreklaudekli
102
Bikšu audekli
102
Brunču audumi
103
Plecu
segas
104
Villaines 104
Sagšas
105
Snãtenes
107
Lielie
lákati
107
Skusti
113
Skaras
114
Lakatiní
116
Salles
116
Prieklauti
116
Virsdrëbju audumi
117
Kleitu
un
kostimu audumi
118
Gultas drëbju
audumi
119
Gultas
maisi
119
Palagi
120
Gultas
segas
122
Svïtrainas
segas
123
Rutainas
segas
126
Joslainãs segas
127
Triniti
austãs segas
127
Drelli
129
Segas ar cilpãm
138
Kilimi
142
Izšutäs
segas
145
Ielasïjumi
ar
skalu
palïdzïbu
145
Lupatu segas
148
Spilveni
149
Telpãs izvietojamie audumi
152
Dvieli
152
Piešuves
un
iešuves
158
Galdsegas
158
Grïdsegas
166
Sienas
segas
171
Aizkari
173
Saimniecibã lietojamie audumi
174
Audumu glabäšana
175
Tekstiliju vêdinãsana
177
Izstãdes
178
Tehniskie
zîmëjumi
187
Secinäjumi
193
Textiles
in Latgale in
the 20th century
195
Ткани Латгадии в
20
столетии
200
Pêtíjumã izmantotie avoti,
literatura un
saïsinajumi
206
Textiles
in Latgale
in the 20th century
The study «Textiles in Latgale in the
20th century» was commissioned by the
Latvian National Centre for Traditional
and Performing Arts and carried out with
the aim of researching factors both pro¬
moting and hindering the development
of traditional applied arts. The theme can
be considered as part of the general ques¬
tion of Latvian cultural history and is ad¬
dressed applying ethnological and cultural
history research methods. The theme is
restricted chronologically and in content,
according to the aims and practical limita¬
tions of the publication. Physical, written
and isographic sources have been used.
Tne
study is based mainly on material acquired
on ethnographic expeditions, kept in the
ethnographic material depository of the
Latvian History Institute of the University
of Latvia and in Latvian museums.
The book is meant for a wide circle of
readers.
The culturally historic region of Lat¬
gale is the eastern part of both the current
Latvian state and the territory inhabited
by the ancient Baltic tribes the Latgallians.
This region is historically the most diverse
regarding inhabitants and at the same
time the most unfavourable as far as the
survival of the Latvian nation (ethnos) is
concerned.
Latvians call Latgale the land of blue
lakes because the landscape is the most
beautiful in Latvia and it is the part of
Latvia most abundant in lakes. Latgale is
also known as Mara
s
land because the
dominant religion here is Catholicism.
Historical sources also reveal the name of
Inflanty,
which was created in
1629
after
the Polish-Swedish war and when the east¬
ern part of Vidzeme (Livland) was kept
under Polish rule. This is when the divi¬
sion from other Latvian inhabited lands
began, which was manifested not only
from an administratively political point of
view but also economically and culturally.
The development of characteristics specific
to the region was strengthened especially
after the division of Poland in
1772,
when
Latgale was joined to Russia. Feudalism
was preserved here until
1861.
At the beginning of the 20th century
Latgale was inhabited by Latvians, Russians,
Byelorussians, Poles, Hebrews, Lithuanians,
Estonians and others.
60%
of inhabitants
in the countryside were Latvians but in the
towns,
1%.
Society was characterised by
the following ethnic and social dominants:
administrators were Russians, gentry and
intelligentsia Poles, trades people Hebrews
and peasants Latvians.
In
1918
the state of Latvia was found¬
ed, which tried to bring Latgale in line with
the rest of Latvia on an administrative and
economic level, because legislation and
the education system in the country were
unified. However, the difference in lan¬
guage (dialect specific to the Eastern part
of Latvia), level of literacy of people born
in the 19th century, ancient and differing
195
domestic
traditions
and the relatively
chequered ethnic composition, meant that
some unique characteristics were preserved
even until the end of the 20th century.
After the
2nd
World War the eth¬
nic composition of Latvia s inhabitants
changed radically. If in
1935
Latvians
made up
76, 99 %
of the total population
in
1993
this figure had reduced to
53, 55
%.
On the contrary, if in
1935
Russians
made up only
8, 83 %
of the population in
1993
this figure had risen to
33, 47 %.
Weaving in Latgale using hand tools
was mainly a female occupation that took
place on farmsteads and in small-town
apartments. The economic situation and
division of the workforce of society at the
beginning of the 20th century meant that
every woman of peasant stock- the moth¬
er of a family
-
had to be capable of weav¬
ing enough fabric for her family s require¬
ments. The historically established link
between household craft and traditional
applied art was preserved more intensely
and for a longer period in this region than
elsewhere in Latvia.
The analysis of woven items indicates
that in Latgale the group of weavers who be¬
came proficient in their trade whilst remain¬
ing within their peasant families existed for
a long time. They did not have workshops
and generally worked in their living quarters
and were not part of any craft organisation.
They received and implemented orders from
local inhabitants on an irregular basis
-
in
particular these were items connected
with traditions. They also sold their prod¬
ucts in local markets and in case of neces¬
sity made supplementary income from odd
jobs. Amongst them were people who had
returned to their farmsteads having been
taught the craft of weaving in towns or on
manor estates
(Krãslava,
Rëzekne),
with the
aim of carrying out the requirements of the
landlords and clergymen. These weavers,
who were never completely separated from
their peasant backgrounds but achieved a
respectable level of skill, were the main pre¬
servers of traditions and developers of tradi¬
tional folk art.
In the 20th century professional
craftswomen
-
weavers
-
were considered
to be women who had completed crafts¬
manship courses with a master craftsper-
son or at a teaching establishment, and
lived off and paid taxes on income earned
from their craft. In Latgale there were very
few such people
-
in more densely popu¬
lated areas maybe one or two. Craftspeople
with no link with agriculture learnt their
craft according to teaching programmes
elaborated in Riga or Jelgava and, there¬
fore, fabric woven in the 1920 s and 1930 s
is similar to that made in the rest of Latvia.
Despite this, the uniqueness of weave from
Latgale was always present, reflected in a
refined understanding and use of natural
materials. In practice, weaving traditions
from previous generations were preserved
for longer than in the central parts of
Latvia.
The activities of these craftswomen
were determined by two factors:
1)
The number of orders they received
from inhabitants for whom it was more
convenient to produce or provide materials
and pay for the craftswomen s work than
to buy factory goods;
2)
The narrow field of specialisation
of the local textile industry. This is why
fabric, in particular decorative weave, that
could not be supplied by the factories or
196
did not comply with local demands, was language of craft and trade in Latgale was
made by craftswomen. generally Russian.
In the
1960s,
as protection against Some craftswomen had semi-me-
the economic political consequences of the chanical looms and others had looms with
Soviet regime, a traditional applied arts levers.
masters group was formed, organised by In Latgale flax farming was more
Latvian cultural establishments, who tried developed than the rest of Latvia, which
to find ways in which craftspeople could meant that flax filaments (linen) were used
legally produce and sell cottage industry most as the material for fabric. On the
items. This group included people with a other hand sheep farming was less devel-
specialised education in craft or applied oped and as a result proportionately less
arts, as well as uneducated but skilled woollen cloth was produced here than in
craftswomen. Some of them joined forces the other culturally historic regions. Cot-
in applied arts groups
-
hobby circles and ton and artificial staple filaments were also
studios, which were active in more densely used. Straw and bast were also used for
populated areas. The studios were larger floor coverings and runners,
in size and stronger as regards skills of the During the
1st
half of the 20th cen-
craft than the hobby circles. In Latgale
tury
natural, uncoloured materials were
there were only two studios
-
in
Lîvăni
still widely used and the colour schemes
and
Rëzekne.
Craftswomen belonging to of cloth compositions made up of natural
a group used specialist literature for refer- plant colours provided by the surround-
ence more than weavers working alone. ing nature. From the latter
1/3
of the 19th
Intensive experience exchange also took century chemical colours also began to be
place, particularly in the event of craft used by local craftswomen, stimulating a
exhibitions, which took place in Latgale, wider distribution of more contrasting col-
Riga and elsewhere. In general the mem- our combinations.
bers of these groups had less impact on the The skills of the weaving profession
local cultural life than applied arts masters were usually handed down in a home set-
groups in the rest of Latvia. ting from generation to generation, which
As far as technical development was meant that they remained unchanged for a
concerned weavers from Latgale used the long time. When comparing archaeologi-
same or similar tools to their counter-
cal
and ethnographic studies it turns out
parts in the rest of Latvia, for example that from the 13th-20th centuries, weav-
the horizontal loom with wooden hinges ing techniques for clothing textiles were
(trizuli) with which
70-90
cm wide cloth preserved that used
4
heddle layers. Tradi-
could be woven with
2-16
heddle layers. tionally the techniques involved for narrow
Similar tools were used in Lithuania,
Po-
weave
—
used for items such as bands, belts
land and elsewhere, but looms in Latgale and reins, are the ones to have remained
were smaller in size and maintained local unchanged the longest,
touches. Many Slavic nuances were used in Weaving courses organised in the 20th
the names of tools, probably because the century in craft teaching establishments
-
197
Saules
School
and Rëzekne
Art College
-
used but the colour scheme changed and
in particular the weaving programme
es-
the model used for the creation of differ-
tablished in the 1930 s, supplemented and
ent
items.
diversified the composition of craft skills. As a result of the above-mentioned
In general it has to be acknowledged that circumstances the most popular type of
the quality of textiles in Latgale was to a warp-weft weave for all groups of weavers
large extent determined by the historic
cul-
that worked with hand tools was vari-
tural heritage. However, in the 20th
cen- ous
types of ticking. Plain weave and its
tury
the choice of weaving techniques and derivations dominated in textiles used for
ornamentation presented much greater po- women s and children s clothing, as well as
tential for weavers than before. in part as basic fabric for blankets. Satin
In the preservation of weaving
tra-
weave was rarely found. Peasant women
dirions,
choice of models or patterns and worked with
4
heddle layers, some also
gaining of information, four levels of in- with
4-8
layers; craftswomen worked with
tensity are observed:
1).
The model is
ob- 4-16
and some even used up to
32
heddle
tained directly from the item,
2).
The mod- layers.
el is obtained just from seeing the item
3).
Weaving and ornamentation tech-
The model is gained from an item learnt
niques
that were implemented by hand
at school or from courses
4).
The model is were widely used in Latgale, such as pat-
obtained from a publication.
temed
weave across the entire width or just
1)
The first version was the most com- in the patterned parts and patterned open-
mon. Items were used that had been inher- work in loop form. For extra divisions
ited or borrowed from neighbours, in par- dowels, wire or cord were used.
ticular tablecloths, shawls and blankets. Weavers used experience obtained
The composition was often re-produced from making traditional costumes in cre-
with no changes.
ating
textiles for domestic use. Ornamen-
2)
The second version includes items tation was considered of primary impor-
seen in churches, at special occasions and
tance,
with colour being secondary.
in the market. The fettered and unfettered tapes-
3)
The third version can be consid- try weave is preserved in blanket weave
-
ered
as the most significant. Weaving multi-coloured
Kilim
rugs, which are
and ornamentation techniques learnt considered to be an echo from 18th
-
smoothed away the specific character- 20th century workshops organised by lo-
istics of Latgallian weave and made it
cal
landlords, during which weavers were
more similar to weaving and lifestyle taught by Polish, German and Prussian
procedures common in all Latvian
cul-
master craftspeople. The decorative aspects
turally historic regions. preserved the eight point stars and plant
4)
The fourth version is connected to ornament elements that were popular dur-
the purchase of literature or possibility of ing the Renaissance times. In bi-coloured
copying drawings of models. Usually the blankets, made by working with dowels,
pattern and, partially, composition were we see the influence of or similarity to
Polish and Latvian textile artists and Mid¬
dle European factory textile products in
the intricate compositions.
In the 20th century the most popu¬
lar warp-weft fabric used for domestic
items was the twill derivative. There was a
pronounced use of twill and in rare cases
satin weave, which was used for creating
towels, tablecloths and blankets. Patterns
published in 18th century linen weaver
master craft albums were used, as well
as simplifications of the said patterns by
weavers and their own creations.
The study shows that weaving tech¬
niques, ornamentation and composition
reflect the cultural trends that affected in¬
habitants of Latgale. It demonstrates that
the relatively modest economic situation of
the local people meant that they did not
have the possibility to create items that had
little practical use and therefore practical
and aesthetic characteristics were gener¬
ally united in traditional textiles. The spe¬
cific features characteristic of locally made
items are best demonstrated in the choice
of materials and compositions.
Textiles collected and analysed dur¬
ing the study allow us to judge the history
of their purveyance. It has been established
that the creation of textiles was hindered
by several factors. The most significant is
the lack of interest on the part of inhabit¬
ants and cultural politics regarding items
of local origin. The economic situation of
weavers restricted the supply of materials,
possibility of learning the craft and pur¬
chase of literature linked to it.
One of the main factors contributing
towards the development of the weaving
craft is the need for people to ensure a sup¬
ply of necessary textiles and at the same
time satisfy their aesthetic needs. Secondly,
weaving requires the availability of quite a
lot of spare time, availability and choice of
necessary materials, ability to weave and
create item compositions.
In order to carry out the above-men¬
tioned activities a well considered learning
of the craft is necessary, learning from a
master craftsperson, at courses and from
weaving technique books and other litera¬
ture connected with textile art.
Another factor promoting the develop¬
ment of this craft is the desire of weavers to
express their adherence to a specific part of
society, a way of life, traditions, culture. To
satisfy a feeling of belonging to one s family,
ancestors, country and fatherland.
Translated by Zinta Uskale
199
|
| any_adam_object | 1 |
| author | Alsupe, Aina |
| author_facet | Alsupe, Aina |
| author_role | aut |
| author_sort | Alsupe, Aina |
| author_variant | a a aa |
| building | Verbundindex |
| bvnumber | BV035023487 |
| callnumber-first | N - Fine Arts |
| callnumber-label | NK8971 |
| callnumber-raw | NK8971.L38 |
| callnumber-search | NK8971.L38 |
| callnumber-sort | NK 48971 L38 |
| callnumber-subject | NK - Decorative Arts |
| ctrlnum | (OCoLC)271117372 (DE-599)BVBBV035023487 |
| era | Geschichte 1900-2000 Geschichte 1900-2000 gnd |
| era_facet | Geschichte 1900-2000 |
| format | Book |
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| geographic | Lettgallen (DE-588)4223781-6 gnd |
| geographic_facet | Lettgallen |
| id | DE-604.BV035023487 |
| illustrated | Illustrated |
| indexdate | 2024-12-23T21:11:01Z |
| institution | BVB |
| isbn | 9789984989396 |
| language | Russian Latvian English |
| oai_aleph_id | oai:aleph.bib-bvb.de:BVB01-016692574 |
| oclc_num | 271117372 |
| open_access_boolean | |
| owner | DE-12 |
| owner_facet | DE-12 |
| physical | 276 S. zahlr. Ill. |
| publishDate | 2008 |
| publishDateSearch | 2008 |
| publishDateSort | 2008 |
| publisher | Tautas Mākslas Centrs |
| record_format | marc |
| spellingShingle | Alsupe, Aina Audumi Latgalē 20. gadsimtā Geschichte Textile fabrics Latvia Latgale History 20th century Volkskunst (DE-588)4063851-0 gnd Textilkunst (DE-588)4059624-2 gnd Tracht (DE-588)4060554-1 gnd |
| subject_GND | (DE-588)4063851-0 (DE-588)4059624-2 (DE-588)4060554-1 (DE-588)4223781-6 |
| title | Audumi Latgalē 20. gadsimtā |
| title_auth | Audumi Latgalē 20. gadsimtā |
| title_exact_search | Audumi Latgalē 20. gadsimtā |
| title_full | Audumi Latgalē 20. gadsimtā Aina Alsupe |
| title_fullStr | Audumi Latgalē 20. gadsimtā Aina Alsupe |
| title_full_unstemmed | Audumi Latgalē 20. gadsimtā Aina Alsupe |
| title_short | Audumi Latgalē 20. gadsimtā |
| title_sort | audumi latgale 20 gadsimta |
| topic | Geschichte Textile fabrics Latvia Latgale History 20th century Volkskunst (DE-588)4063851-0 gnd Textilkunst (DE-588)4059624-2 gnd Tracht (DE-588)4060554-1 gnd |
| topic_facet | Geschichte Textile fabrics Latvia Latgale History 20th century Volkskunst Textilkunst Tracht Lettgallen |
| url | http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=016692574&sequence=000003&line_number=0001&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=016692574&sequence=000004&line_number=0002&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA |
| work_keys_str_mv | AT alsupeaina audumilatgale20gadsimta |