Numerical simulations of rip currents off arc-shaped coastlines

The rip currents induced by waves off arc-shaped coastlines are seriously harmful to humans, but understanding of their characteristics is lacking. In this study, the FUNWAVE model was used to calculate the wave-induced currents in the Haller experiment and the ideal arc-shaped coast similar to Sany...

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Veröffentlicht in:Acta oceanologica Sinica 2018-03, Vol.37 (3), p.21-30
Hauptverfasser: Wang, Hong, Zhu, Shouxian, Li, Xunqiang, Zhang, Wenjing, Nie, Yu
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container_issue 3
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container_title Acta oceanologica Sinica
container_volume 37
creator Wang, Hong
Zhu, Shouxian
Li, Xunqiang
Zhang, Wenjing
Nie, Yu
description The rip currents induced by waves off arc-shaped coastlines are seriously harmful to humans, but understanding of their characteristics is lacking. In this study, the FUNWAVE model was used to calculate the wave-induced currents in the Haller experiment and the ideal arc-shaped coast similar to Sanya Dadonghai, Hainan Province, China. The results showed that the FUNWAVE model has considerable ability to simulate the rip currents, and it was used to further simulate rip currents off arc-shaped coastlines to investigate their characteristics. The rip currents were found to be stronger as the curvature of arc-shaped coastline increased. Coastal beach slope exerts a significant influence on rip currents; in particular, an overly steep or overly mild slope is not conducive to creating rip currents. Furthermore, the rip currents were found to become weaker as the size of arc-shaped coast decreased. When the height and period of waves increase, the strength of rip currents also increases, and, in some cases, wave heights of 0.4 m may produce dangerous rip currents.
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Coastal beach slope exerts a significant influence on rip currents; in particular, an overly steep or overly mild slope is not conducive to creating rip currents. Furthermore, the rip currents were found to become weaker as the size of arc-shaped coast decreased. When the height and period of waves increase, the strength of rip currents also increases, and, in some cases, wave heights of 0.4 m may produce dangerous rip currents.</abstract><cop>Beijing</cop><pub>The Chinese Society of Oceanography</pub><doi>10.1007/s13131-018-1197-1</doi><tpages>10</tpages></addata></record>
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subjects Beach slope
Climatology
Coastal currents
Coasts
Computer simulation
Curvature
Drownings
Earth and Environmental Science
Earth Sciences
Ecology
Engineering Fluid Dynamics
Environmental Chemistry
Experiments
Marine & Freshwater Sciences
Mathematical models
Numerical simulations
Ocean currents
Oceanography
Remote sensing
Rip currents
Simulation
Topography
Wave height
title Numerical simulations of rip currents off arc-shaped coastlines
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