A new statistical model of wave heights based on the concept of wave breaking critical zone

When waves propagate from deep water to shallow water, wave heights and steepness increase and then waves roll back and break. This phenomenon is called surf. Currently, the present statistical calculation model of surf was derived mainly from the wave energy conservation equation and the linear wav...

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Veröffentlicht in:	Acta oceanologica Sinica 2015-05, Vol.34 (5), p.81-85
Hauptverfasser:	Yang, Jiaxuan, Li, Xunqiang, Zhu, Shouxian, Zhang, Wenjing, Wang, Lei
Format:	Artikel
Sprache:	eng
Schlagworte:	Climatology Conservation equations Deep water Earth and Environmental Science Earth Sciences Ecology Energy conservation Engineering Fluid Dynamics Environmental Chemistry Flumes Linear waves Marine & Freshwater Sciences Mathematical models Oceanography Shallow water Slopes Statistical models Surf Wave breaking Wave dispersion Wave energy Wave height Wave power 临界区域基础断裂区波浪高度波高统计模型能量守恒方程计算模型
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