Field observation of morpho-dynamic processes during storms at a Pacific beach, Japan: Role of long-period waves in storm-induced berm erosion
Many ultrasonic wave gages were placed with a small spacing across the swash zone to monitor either sand level or water level. Continuous monitoring conducted for a few years enabled the collection of data on the change in wave properties as well as swash-zone profiles. Data sets including two cases...
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| Veröffentlicht in: | Proceedings of the Japan Academy Series B, 2015/02/10, Vol.91(2), pp.52-62 |
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| creator | MIZUGUCHI, Masaru SEKI, Katsumi |
| description | Many ultrasonic wave gages were placed with a small spacing across the swash zone to monitor either sand level or water level. Continuous monitoring conducted for a few years enabled the collection of data on the change in wave properties as well as swash-zone profiles. Data sets including two cases of large-scale berm erosion were analyzed. The results showed that 1) shoreline erosion started when high waves with significant power in long-period (1 to 2 min.) waves reached the top of a well-developed berm with the help of rising tide; 2) the beach in the swash zone was eroded with higher elevation being more depressed, while the bottom elevation just outside the swash zone remained almost unchanged; and 3) erosion stopped in a few hours after the berm was completely eroded or the swash-zone slope became uniformly mild. These findings strongly suggest that long waves play a dominant role in the swash-zone dynamics associated with these erosional events. |
| doi_str_mv | 10.2183/pjab.91.52 |
| format | Article |
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Continuous monitoring conducted for a few years enabled the collection of data on the change in wave properties as well as swash-zone profiles. Data sets including two cases of large-scale berm erosion were analyzed. The results showed that 1) shoreline erosion started when high waves with significant power in long-period (1 to 2 min.) waves reached the top of a well-developed berm with the help of rising tide; 2) the beach in the swash zone was eroded with higher elevation being more depressed, while the bottom elevation just outside the swash zone remained almost unchanged; and 3) erosion stopped in a few hours after the berm was completely eroded or the swash-zone slope became uniformly mild. These findings strongly suggest that long waves play a dominant role in the swash-zone dynamics associated with these erosional events.</description><identifier>ISSN: 0386-2208</identifier><identifier>ISSN: 0021-4280</identifier><identifier>EISSN: 1349-2896</identifier><identifier>DOI: 10.2183/pjab.91.52</identifier><identifier>PMID: 25748583</identifier><language>eng</language><publisher>Japan: The Japan Academy</publisher><subject>Analysis ; berm erosion ; Coastal erosion ; Environmental Monitoring - methods ; field observation ; Hasaki pier ; Hydrodynamics ; Japan ; long period waves ; Original ; Pacific Ocean ; Sediment transport ; swash process ; Time Factors ; Ultrasonic waves ; Ultrasonics ; Waves ; Weather</subject><ispartof>Proceedings of the Japan Academy, Series B, 2015/02/10, Vol.91(2), pp.52-62</ispartof><rights>2015 The Japan Academy</rights><rights>COPYRIGHT 2015 The Japan Academy</rights><rights>2015 The Japan Academy 2015</rights><lds50>peer_reviewed</lds50><oa>free_for_read</oa><woscitedreferencessubscribed>false</woscitedreferencessubscribed><citedby>FETCH-LOGICAL-c730t-45368fc92e54e340394dfb2e8594d8d53fa028ad461bd5fddffa71e5e781aef03</citedby><cites>FETCH-LOGICAL-c730t-45368fc92e54e340394dfb2e8594d8d53fa028ad461bd5fddffa71e5e781aef03</cites></display><links><openurl>$$Topenurl_article</openurl><openurlfulltext>$$Topenurlfull_article</openurlfulltext><thumbnail>$$Tsyndetics_thumb_exl</thumbnail><linktopdf>$$Uhttps://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4406868/pdf/$$EPDF$$P50$$Gpubmedcentral$$Hfree_for_read</linktopdf><linktohtml>$$Uhttps://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4406868/$$EHTML$$P50$$Gpubmedcentral$$Hfree_for_read</linktohtml><link.rule.ids>230,314,723,776,780,881,1877,4010,27900,27901,27902,53766,53768</link.rule.ids><backlink>$$Uhttps://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/25748583$$D View this record in MEDLINE/PubMed$$Hfree_for_read</backlink></links><search><creatorcontrib>MIZUGUCHI, Masaru</creatorcontrib><creatorcontrib>SEKI, Katsumi</creatorcontrib><title>Field observation of morpho-dynamic processes during storms at a Pacific beach, Japan: Role of long-period waves in storm-induced berm erosion</title><title>Proceedings of the Japan Academy</title><addtitle>Proc. Jpn. Acad., Ser. B</addtitle><description>Many ultrasonic wave gages were placed with a small spacing across the swash zone to monitor either sand level or water level. Continuous monitoring conducted for a few years enabled the collection of data on the change in wave properties as well as swash-zone profiles. Data sets including two cases of large-scale berm erosion were analyzed. The results showed that 1) shoreline erosion started when high waves with significant power in long-period (1 to 2 min.) waves reached the top of a well-developed berm with the help of rising tide; 2) the beach in the swash zone was eroded with higher elevation being more depressed, while the bottom elevation just outside the swash zone remained almost unchanged; and 3) erosion stopped in a few hours after the berm was completely eroded or the swash-zone slope became uniformly mild. These findings strongly suggest that long waves play a dominant role in the swash-zone dynamics associated with these erosional events.</description><subject>Analysis</subject><subject>berm erosion</subject><subject>Coastal erosion</subject><subject>Environmental Monitoring - methods</subject><subject>field observation</subject><subject>Hasaki pier</subject><subject>Hydrodynamics</subject><subject>Japan</subject><subject>long period waves</subject><subject>Original</subject><subject>Pacific Ocean</subject><subject>Sediment transport</subject><subject>swash process</subject><subject>Time Factors</subject><subject>Ultrasonic waves</subject><subject>Ultrasonics</subject><subject>Waves</subject><subject>Weather</subject><issn>0386-2208</issn><issn>0021-4280</issn><issn>1349-2896</issn><fulltext>true</fulltext><rsrctype>article</rsrctype><creationdate>2015</creationdate><recordtype>article</recordtype><sourceid>EIF</sourceid><sourceid>8G5</sourceid><sourceid>BENPR</sourceid><sourceid>GUQSH</sourceid><sourceid>M2O</sourceid><recordid>eNptkt-K1DAUxoso7rp64wNIwBsRO-ZP06ZeCOPiqMuCi-h1SJOTmQxt0k3akX0Jn9kMszu6IoEkJL_v-zjJKYrnBC8oEeztuFXdoiULTh8Up4RVbUlFWz8sTjETdUkpFifFk5S2GDPKBXlcnFDeVIILdlr8WjnoDQpdgrhTkwseBYuGEMdNKM2NV4PTaIxBQ0qQkJmj82uUphCHhNSEFLpS2tkMdaD05g26UKPy79C30MPeqQ9-XY4QXTDop9plC-cP8tJ5M2swWRgHBDGkHP60eGRVn-DZ7XpW_Fh9_H7-ubz8-unL-fKy1A3DU1lxVgurWwq8AlZh1lbGdhQEzxthOLMKU6FMVZPOcGuMtaohwKERRIHF7Kx4f_Ad524Ao8FPUfVyjG5Q8UYG5eT9G-82ch12sqpwLWqRDV7dGsRwPUOa5OCShr5XHsKcJKlr0opWCJ7Rl_-g2zBHn8uTpKlplf04-UOtVQ_SeRtyrt6bymVFKpxjcZOpxX-oPAzkjwoerMvn9wSvDwKdHzhFsMcaCZb77pH77pEtkZxm-MXfr3JE79olA6sDsE2TWsMRUHFyOgffedH9dHWxbAmmHySmR0BvVJTg2W996NrB</recordid><startdate>2015</startdate><enddate>2015</enddate><creator>MIZUGUCHI, Masaru</creator><creator>SEKI, Katsumi</creator><general>The Japan Academy</general><scope>CGR</scope><scope>CUY</scope><scope>CVF</scope><scope>ECM</scope><scope>EIF</scope><scope>NPM</scope><scope>AAYXX</scope><scope>CITATION</scope><scope>3V.</scope><scope>7QP</scope><scope>7QR</scope><scope>7TK</scope><scope>7X7</scope><scope>7XB</scope><scope>88E</scope><scope>8FD</scope><scope>8FE</scope><scope>8FG</scope><scope>8FH</scope><scope>8FI</scope><scope>8FJ</scope><scope>8FK</scope><scope>8G5</scope><scope>ABJCF</scope><scope>ABUWG</scope><scope>AFKRA</scope><scope>AZQEC</scope><scope>BBNVY</scope><scope>BENPR</scope><scope>BGLVJ</scope><scope>BHPHI</scope><scope>BVBZV</scope><scope>CCPQU</scope><scope>DWQXO</scope><scope>FR3</scope><scope>FYUFA</scope><scope>GHDGH</scope><scope>GNUQQ</scope><scope>GUQSH</scope><scope>HCIFZ</scope><scope>K9.</scope><scope>L6V</scope><scope>LK8</scope><scope>M0S</scope><scope>M1P</scope><scope>M2O</scope><scope>M7P</scope><scope>M7S</scope><scope>MBDVC</scope><scope>P64</scope><scope>PQEST</scope><scope>PQQKQ</scope><scope>PQUKI</scope><scope>PRINS</scope><scope>PTHSS</scope><scope>Q9U</scope><scope>7X8</scope><scope>5PM</scope></search><sort><creationdate>2015</creationdate><title>Field observation of morpho-dynamic processes during storms at a Pacific beach, Japan: Role of long-period waves in storm-induced berm erosion</title><author>MIZUGUCHI, Masaru ; SEKI, Katsumi</author></sort><facets><frbrtype>5</frbrtype><frbrgroupid>cdi_FETCH-LOGICAL-c730t-45368fc92e54e340394dfb2e8594d8d53fa028ad461bd5fddffa71e5e781aef03</frbrgroupid><rsrctype>articles</rsrctype><prefilter>articles</prefilter><language>eng</language><creationdate>2015</creationdate><topic>Analysis</topic><topic>berm erosion</topic><topic>Coastal erosion</topic><topic>Environmental Monitoring - methods</topic><topic>field observation</topic><topic>Hasaki pier</topic><topic>Hydrodynamics</topic><topic>Japan</topic><topic>long period waves</topic><topic>Original</topic><topic>Pacific Ocean</topic><topic>Sediment transport</topic><topic>swash process</topic><topic>Time Factors</topic><topic>Ultrasonic waves</topic><topic>Ultrasonics</topic><topic>Waves</topic><topic>Weather</topic><toplevel>peer_reviewed</toplevel><toplevel>online_resources</toplevel><creatorcontrib>MIZUGUCHI, Masaru</creatorcontrib><creatorcontrib>SEKI, Katsumi</creatorcontrib><collection>Medline</collection><collection>MEDLINE</collection><collection>MEDLINE (Ovid)</collection><collection>MEDLINE</collection><collection>MEDLINE</collection><collection>PubMed</collection><collection>CrossRef</collection><collection>ProQuest Central (Corporate)</collection><collection>Calcium & Calcified Tissue Abstracts</collection><collection>Chemoreception Abstracts</collection><collection>Neurosciences Abstracts</collection><collection>Health & Medical Collection</collection><collection>ProQuest Central (purchase pre-March 2016)</collection><collection>Medical Database (Alumni Edition)</collection><collection>Technology Research Database</collection><collection>ProQuest SciTech Collection</collection><collection>ProQuest Technology Collection</collection><collection>ProQuest Natural Science Collection</collection><collection>Hospital Premium Collection</collection><collection>Hospital Premium Collection (Alumni Edition)</collection><collection>ProQuest Central (Alumni) (purchase pre-March 2016)</collection><collection>Research Library (Alumni Edition)</collection><collection>Materials Science & Engineering Collection</collection><collection>ProQuest Central (Alumni Edition)</collection><collection>ProQuest Central UK/Ireland</collection><collection>ProQuest Central Essentials</collection><collection>Biological Science Collection</collection><collection>ProQuest Central</collection><collection>Technology Collection</collection><collection>Natural Science Collection</collection><collection>East & South Asia Database</collection><collection>ProQuest One Community College</collection><collection>ProQuest Central Korea</collection><collection>Engineering Research Database</collection><collection>Health Research Premium Collection</collection><collection>Health Research Premium Collection (Alumni)</collection><collection>ProQuest Central Student</collection><collection>Research Library Prep</collection><collection>SciTech Premium Collection</collection><collection>ProQuest Health & Medical Complete (Alumni)</collection><collection>ProQuest Engineering Collection</collection><collection>ProQuest Biological Science Collection</collection><collection>Health & Medical Collection (Alumni Edition)</collection><collection>Medical Database</collection><collection>Research Library</collection><collection>Biological Science Database</collection><collection>Engineering Database</collection><collection>Research Library (Corporate)</collection><collection>Biotechnology and BioEngineering Abstracts</collection><collection>ProQuest One Academic Eastern Edition (DO NOT USE)</collection><collection>ProQuest One Academic</collection><collection>ProQuest One Academic UKI Edition</collection><collection>ProQuest Central China</collection><collection>Engineering Collection</collection><collection>ProQuest Central Basic</collection><collection>MEDLINE - Academic</collection><collection>PubMed Central (Full Participant titles)</collection><jtitle>Proceedings of the Japan Academy</jtitle></facets><delivery><delcategory>Remote Search Resource</delcategory><fulltext>fulltext</fulltext></delivery><addata><au>MIZUGUCHI, Masaru</au><au>SEKI, Katsumi</au><format>journal</format><genre>article</genre><ristype>JOUR</ristype><atitle>Field observation of morpho-dynamic processes during storms at a Pacific beach, Japan: Role of long-period waves in storm-induced berm erosion</atitle><jtitle>Proceedings of the Japan Academy</jtitle><addtitle>Proc. Jpn. Acad., Ser. B</addtitle><date>2015</date><risdate>2015</risdate><volume>91</volume><issue>2</issue><spage>52</spage><epage>62</epage><pages>52-62</pages><issn>0386-2208</issn><issn>0021-4280</issn><eissn>1349-2896</eissn><abstract>Many ultrasonic wave gages were placed with a small spacing across the swash zone to monitor either sand level or water level. Continuous monitoring conducted for a few years enabled the collection of data on the change in wave properties as well as swash-zone profiles. Data sets including two cases of large-scale berm erosion were analyzed. The results showed that 1) shoreline erosion started when high waves with significant power in long-period (1 to 2 min.) waves reached the top of a well-developed berm with the help of rising tide; 2) the beach in the swash zone was eroded with higher elevation being more depressed, while the bottom elevation just outside the swash zone remained almost unchanged; and 3) erosion stopped in a few hours after the berm was completely eroded or the swash-zone slope became uniformly mild. These findings strongly suggest that long waves play a dominant role in the swash-zone dynamics associated with these erosional events.</abstract><cop>Japan</cop><pub>The Japan Academy</pub><pmid>25748583</pmid><doi>10.2183/pjab.91.52</doi><tpages>11</tpages><oa>free_for_read</oa></addata></record> |
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| subjects | Analysis berm erosion Coastal erosion Environmental Monitoring - methods field observation Hasaki pier Hydrodynamics Japan long period waves Original Pacific Ocean Sediment transport swash process Time Factors Ultrasonic waves Ultrasonics Waves Weather |
| title | Field observation of morpho-dynamic processes during storms at a Pacific beach, Japan: Role of long-period waves in storm-induced berm erosion |
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