Medium timescale beach rotation; gale climate and offshore island influences
Beach profile surveys, gale climate and atmospheric variations were utilized to assess medium timescale morphological change at South Sands, Tenby, West Wales. Due to beach aspect in relation to offshore islands, gale wave height decreased as wave direction rotated eastwards (r = 0.83) and westwards...
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| Veröffentlicht in: | Geomorphology (Amsterdam, Netherlands) Netherlands), 2011-12, Vol.135 (1), p.97-107 |
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| creator | Thomas, T. Phillips, M.R. Williams, A.T. Jenkins, R.E. |
| description | Beach profile surveys, gale climate and atmospheric variations were utilized to assess medium timescale morphological change at South Sands, Tenby, West Wales. Due to beach aspect in relation to offshore islands, gale wave height decreased as wave direction rotated eastwards (r
=
0.83) and westwards (r
=
0.88). Similarly, wave heights were in attuned to variations in positive (r
=
0.68) and negative (r
=
−
0.72) NAO Index, showing a wave height reduction occurred during weakly negative/positive or transitory phases; morphological change was attuned to atmospheric variation at a 2-year timelag. Shelter from offshore islands is given to waves from the predominant southwesterly direction and was confirmed by negligible correlation with South Sands morphology. However, outside the shelter of these offshore islands, correlation was found between south-eastward rotating wave directions (135°–180°) and morphological change, which resulted in southern and central beach erosion and accretion to the north. With a southwesterly rotation (243°–256°) the opposite was true. Beach rotation expressed by volume change within the sub-aerial zone had a negative phased relationship between beach extremities (r
=
−
0.94) and a timelagged association within the intertidal zone (r
=
0.55). Analyses resulted in the development of two medium timescale rotation models based on incident wave direction and climatic variability. Results have global implications for headland bays in the lee of offshore islands, as well as macro-tidal beach areas; and consequently similar models could inform local, regional and national beach management strategies
► Using beach profiles and environmental forcing we assess beach rotation. ► We examine how beach morphology is influenced by offshore islands. ► NAO variations were established as a key driver for beach rotation. ► Gale wave approach modified by offshore islands also had influence. ► Knowledge enabled two conceptual models to be proposed. |
| doi_str_mv | 10.1016/j.geomorph.2011.08.002 |
| format | Article |
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=
0.83) and westwards (r
=
0.88). Similarly, wave heights were in attuned to variations in positive (r
=
0.68) and negative (r
=
−
0.72) NAO Index, showing a wave height reduction occurred during weakly negative/positive or transitory phases; morphological change was attuned to atmospheric variation at a 2-year timelag. Shelter from offshore islands is given to waves from the predominant southwesterly direction and was confirmed by negligible correlation with South Sands morphology. However, outside the shelter of these offshore islands, correlation was found between south-eastward rotating wave directions (135°–180°) and morphological change, which resulted in southern and central beach erosion and accretion to the north. With a southwesterly rotation (243°–256°) the opposite was true. Beach rotation expressed by volume change within the sub-aerial zone had a negative phased relationship between beach extremities (r
=
−
0.94) and a timelagged association within the intertidal zone (r
=
0.55). Analyses resulted in the development of two medium timescale rotation models based on incident wave direction and climatic variability. Results have global implications for headland bays in the lee of offshore islands, as well as macro-tidal beach areas; and consequently similar models could inform local, regional and national beach management strategies
► Using beach profiles and environmental forcing we assess beach rotation. ► We examine how beach morphology is influenced by offshore islands. ► NAO variations were established as a key driver for beach rotation. ► Gale wave approach modified by offshore islands also had influence. ► Knowledge enabled two conceptual models to be proposed.</description><identifier>ISSN: 0169-555X</identifier><identifier>EISSN: 1872-695X</identifier><identifier>DOI: 10.1016/j.geomorph.2011.08.002</identifier><language>eng</language><publisher>Amsterdam: Elsevier B.V</publisher><subject>Atmospherics ; beach erosion ; Beaches ; climate ; coastal zone management ; Conceptual models ; Correlation ; Earth sciences ; Earth, ocean, space ; Embayment ; Exact sciences and technology ; Geomorphology, landform evolution ; Islands ; littoral zone ; Marine and continental quaternary ; Morphological change ; Offshore ; Offshore engineering ; Offshore island ; Offshore structures ; Sands ; Sediment transport ; Surficial geology ; surveys</subject><ispartof>Geomorphology (Amsterdam, Netherlands), 2011-12, Vol.135 (1), p.97-107</ispartof><rights>2011 Elsevier B.V.</rights><rights>2015 INIST-CNRS</rights><lds50>peer_reviewed</lds50><woscitedreferencessubscribed>false</woscitedreferencessubscribed><citedby>FETCH-LOGICAL-c431t-42e505a8b1979b98559ca626379202819d59d2b71470281f3e9c177fb72ad99c3</citedby><cites>FETCH-LOGICAL-c431t-42e505a8b1979b98559ca626379202819d59d2b71470281f3e9c177fb72ad99c3</cites></display><links><openurl>$$Topenurl_article</openurl><openurlfulltext>$$Topenurlfull_article</openurlfulltext><thumbnail>$$Tsyndetics_thumb_exl</thumbnail><linktohtml>$$Uhttps://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.geomorph.2011.08.002$$EHTML$$P50$$Gelsevier$$H</linktohtml><link.rule.ids>315,781,785,3551,27929,27930,46000</link.rule.ids><backlink>$$Uhttp://pascal-francis.inist.fr/vibad/index.php?action=getRecordDetail&idt=24618786$$DView record in Pascal Francis$$Hfree_for_read</backlink></links><search><creatorcontrib>Thomas, T.</creatorcontrib><creatorcontrib>Phillips, M.R.</creatorcontrib><creatorcontrib>Williams, A.T.</creatorcontrib><creatorcontrib>Jenkins, R.E.</creatorcontrib><title>Medium timescale beach rotation; gale climate and offshore island influences</title><title>Geomorphology (Amsterdam, Netherlands)</title><description>Beach profile surveys, gale climate and atmospheric variations were utilized to assess medium timescale morphological change at South Sands, Tenby, West Wales. Due to beach aspect in relation to offshore islands, gale wave height decreased as wave direction rotated eastwards (r
=
0.83) and westwards (r
=
0.88). Similarly, wave heights were in attuned to variations in positive (r
=
0.68) and negative (r
=
−
0.72) NAO Index, showing a wave height reduction occurred during weakly negative/positive or transitory phases; morphological change was attuned to atmospheric variation at a 2-year timelag. Shelter from offshore islands is given to waves from the predominant southwesterly direction and was confirmed by negligible correlation with South Sands morphology. However, outside the shelter of these offshore islands, correlation was found between south-eastward rotating wave directions (135°–180°) and morphological change, which resulted in southern and central beach erosion and accretion to the north. With a southwesterly rotation (243°–256°) the opposite was true. Beach rotation expressed by volume change within the sub-aerial zone had a negative phased relationship between beach extremities (r
=
−
0.94) and a timelagged association within the intertidal zone (r
=
0.55). Analyses resulted in the development of two medium timescale rotation models based on incident wave direction and climatic variability. Results have global implications for headland bays in the lee of offshore islands, as well as macro-tidal beach areas; and consequently similar models could inform local, regional and national beach management strategies
► Using beach profiles and environmental forcing we assess beach rotation. ► We examine how beach morphology is influenced by offshore islands. ► NAO variations were established as a key driver for beach rotation. ► Gale wave approach modified by offshore islands also had influence. ► Knowledge enabled two conceptual models to be proposed.</description><subject>Atmospherics</subject><subject>beach erosion</subject><subject>Beaches</subject><subject>climate</subject><subject>coastal zone management</subject><subject>Conceptual models</subject><subject>Correlation</subject><subject>Earth sciences</subject><subject>Earth, ocean, space</subject><subject>Embayment</subject><subject>Exact sciences and technology</subject><subject>Geomorphology, landform evolution</subject><subject>Islands</subject><subject>littoral zone</subject><subject>Marine and continental quaternary</subject><subject>Morphological change</subject><subject>Offshore</subject><subject>Offshore engineering</subject><subject>Offshore island</subject><subject>Offshore structures</subject><subject>Sands</subject><subject>Sediment transport</subject><subject>Surficial geology</subject><subject>surveys</subject><issn>0169-555X</issn><issn>1872-695X</issn><fulltext>true</fulltext><rsrctype>article</rsrctype><creationdate>2011</creationdate><recordtype>article</recordtype><recordid>eNqFkU1v3CAQhlHVStmm_QupL1FzsTNgA0a5NIr6EWmjHNJIuSGMh11WttmCN1L-fbE27bE9oUHPvMw8EHJGoaJAxeWu2mAYQ9xvKwaUVtBWAOwNWdFWslIo_vSWrDKoSs750wl5n9IOABqpYEXWd9j7w1jMfsRkzYBFh8ZuixhmM_swXRWb5dIOfjQzFmbqi-Bc2oaIhU_DUvvJDQecLKYP5J0zQ8KPr-cpefz29efNj3J9__325npd2qamc9kw5MBN21ElVadazpU1golaKgasparnqmedpI1cSlejslRK10lmeqVsfUo-H3P3Mfw6YJr16JPFIY-D4ZC0AlbnVkEzefFPkkrBKGM1hYyKI2pjSCmi0_uYl44vmoJeROud_iNaL6I1tDqLzo3nr2-YxaCLZrI-_e1mjcgf0YrMfTpyzgRtNjEzjw85iOcQUNA0mfhyJDDLe_YYdbJ-Mdv7iHbWffD_G-Y3LZ6fIw</recordid><startdate>20111201</startdate><enddate>20111201</enddate><creator>Thomas, T.</creator><creator>Phillips, M.R.</creator><creator>Williams, A.T.</creator><creator>Jenkins, R.E.</creator><general>Elsevier B.V</general><general>Elsevier</general><scope>FBQ</scope><scope>IQODW</scope><scope>AAYXX</scope><scope>CITATION</scope><scope>8FD</scope><scope>FR3</scope><scope>H8D</scope><scope>KR7</scope><scope>L7M</scope><scope>7QH</scope><scope>7TN</scope><scope>7UA</scope><scope>C1K</scope><scope>F1W</scope><scope>H96</scope><scope>L.G</scope></search><sort><creationdate>20111201</creationdate><title>Medium timescale beach rotation; gale climate and offshore island influences</title><author>Thomas, T. ; Phillips, M.R. ; Williams, A.T. ; Jenkins, R.E.</author></sort><facets><frbrtype>5</frbrtype><frbrgroupid>cdi_FETCH-LOGICAL-c431t-42e505a8b1979b98559ca626379202819d59d2b71470281f3e9c177fb72ad99c3</frbrgroupid><rsrctype>articles</rsrctype><prefilter>articles</prefilter><language>eng</language><creationdate>2011</creationdate><topic>Atmospherics</topic><topic>beach erosion</topic><topic>Beaches</topic><topic>climate</topic><topic>coastal zone management</topic><topic>Conceptual models</topic><topic>Correlation</topic><topic>Earth sciences</topic><topic>Earth, ocean, space</topic><topic>Embayment</topic><topic>Exact sciences and technology</topic><topic>Geomorphology, landform evolution</topic><topic>Islands</topic><topic>littoral zone</topic><topic>Marine and continental quaternary</topic><topic>Morphological change</topic><topic>Offshore</topic><topic>Offshore engineering</topic><topic>Offshore island</topic><topic>Offshore structures</topic><topic>Sands</topic><topic>Sediment transport</topic><topic>Surficial geology</topic><topic>surveys</topic><toplevel>peer_reviewed</toplevel><toplevel>online_resources</toplevel><creatorcontrib>Thomas, T.</creatorcontrib><creatorcontrib>Phillips, M.R.</creatorcontrib><creatorcontrib>Williams, A.T.</creatorcontrib><creatorcontrib>Jenkins, R.E.</creatorcontrib><collection>AGRIS</collection><collection>Pascal-Francis</collection><collection>CrossRef</collection><collection>Technology Research Database</collection><collection>Engineering Research Database</collection><collection>Aerospace Database</collection><collection>Civil Engineering Abstracts</collection><collection>Advanced Technologies Database with Aerospace</collection><collection>Aqualine</collection><collection>Oceanic Abstracts</collection><collection>Water Resources Abstracts</collection><collection>Environmental Sciences and Pollution Management</collection><collection>ASFA: Aquatic Sciences and Fisheries Abstracts</collection><collection>Aquatic Science & Fisheries Abstracts (ASFA) 2: Ocean Technology, Policy & Non-Living Resources</collection><collection>Aquatic Science & Fisheries Abstracts (ASFA) Professional</collection><jtitle>Geomorphology (Amsterdam, Netherlands)</jtitle></facets><delivery><delcategory>Remote Search Resource</delcategory><fulltext>fulltext</fulltext></delivery><addata><au>Thomas, T.</au><au>Phillips, M.R.</au><au>Williams, A.T.</au><au>Jenkins, R.E.</au><format>journal</format><genre>article</genre><ristype>JOUR</ristype><atitle>Medium timescale beach rotation; gale climate and offshore island influences</atitle><jtitle>Geomorphology (Amsterdam, Netherlands)</jtitle><date>2011-12-01</date><risdate>2011</risdate><volume>135</volume><issue>1</issue><spage>97</spage><epage>107</epage><pages>97-107</pages><issn>0169-555X</issn><eissn>1872-695X</eissn><abstract>Beach profile surveys, gale climate and atmospheric variations were utilized to assess medium timescale morphological change at South Sands, Tenby, West Wales. Due to beach aspect in relation to offshore islands, gale wave height decreased as wave direction rotated eastwards (r
=
0.83) and westwards (r
=
0.88). Similarly, wave heights were in attuned to variations in positive (r
=
0.68) and negative (r
=
−
0.72) NAO Index, showing a wave height reduction occurred during weakly negative/positive or transitory phases; morphological change was attuned to atmospheric variation at a 2-year timelag. Shelter from offshore islands is given to waves from the predominant southwesterly direction and was confirmed by negligible correlation with South Sands morphology. However, outside the shelter of these offshore islands, correlation was found between south-eastward rotating wave directions (135°–180°) and morphological change, which resulted in southern and central beach erosion and accretion to the north. With a southwesterly rotation (243°–256°) the opposite was true. Beach rotation expressed by volume change within the sub-aerial zone had a negative phased relationship between beach extremities (r
=
−
0.94) and a timelagged association within the intertidal zone (r
=
0.55). Analyses resulted in the development of two medium timescale rotation models based on incident wave direction and climatic variability. Results have global implications for headland bays in the lee of offshore islands, as well as macro-tidal beach areas; and consequently similar models could inform local, regional and national beach management strategies
► Using beach profiles and environmental forcing we assess beach rotation. ► We examine how beach morphology is influenced by offshore islands. ► NAO variations were established as a key driver for beach rotation. ► Gale wave approach modified by offshore islands also had influence. ► Knowledge enabled two conceptual models to be proposed.</abstract><cop>Amsterdam</cop><pub>Elsevier B.V</pub><doi>10.1016/j.geomorph.2011.08.002</doi><tpages>11</tpages></addata></record> |
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| ispartof | Geomorphology (Amsterdam, Netherlands), 2011-12, Vol.135 (1), p.97-107 |
| issn | 0169-555X 1872-695X |
| language | eng |
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| source | Access via ScienceDirect (Elsevier) |
| subjects | Atmospherics beach erosion Beaches climate coastal zone management Conceptual models Correlation Earth sciences Earth, ocean, space Embayment Exact sciences and technology Geomorphology, landform evolution Islands littoral zone Marine and continental quaternary Morphological change Offshore Offshore engineering Offshore island Offshore structures Sands Sediment transport Surficial geology surveys |
| title | Medium timescale beach rotation; gale climate and offshore island influences |
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