Lactobionic acid in a natural alkylpolyglucoside-based vehicle: assessing safety and efficacy aspects in comparison to glycolic acid

Summary Background/aims Lactobionic acid (LA) is a newer cosmeceutical active belonging to the class of alpha‐hydroxyacids (AHAs), showing advantages over them. The aim of part I of this study was to compare efficacy and irritation potential of LA vs. glycolic acid (GA) from two types of vehicles – gel and emulsion. In part II, effects of LA‐containing emulsions based on a new, natural emulsifier of alkylpolyglucoside (APG) type were evaluated. Methods Skin bioengineering was used on 77 healthy volunteers to assess: color as erythema and melanin (MI) index, transepidermal water loss, electrical capacitance and pH of the skin. In part I of the study, the parameters were measured after occlusion and periodically during 2 weeks of test samples application; in part II parameters were measured periodically during 4 weeks. Results/conclusion LA‐containing samples has produced better skin performance when compared with corresponding GA‐containing ones, particularly the lack of both skin irritation and skin barrier impairment. When used in vehicles based on a new APG‐emulsifier, LA and GA have shown better efficacy, emphasizing the importance of vehicle on the effects of topical actives. LA (6%) in the emulsion based on APGs could be proposed as an alternative to low‐molecular AHAs in cosmeceuticals.