pH-induced alterations in stratum corneum properties

Synopsis Skin‐cleansing compositions based on alkyl carboxylates (soaps) have a higher irritation potential than those based on syndet surfactants such as alkyl isethionates or alkyl ether sulphates. Contributing factors include inherent differences in the irritation potential of soaps and syndet surfactants, pH‐induced changes in surfactant solution chemistry, and the direct effects of pH on the physical properties of the stratum corneum (SC). Past work has not directly addressed the effect of solution pH on the SC itself and its potential role in cleanser‐induced skin irritation. In the current work, alterations to SC properties induced by buffered pH solutions and two strongly ionizable surfactants, sodium dodecyl sulphate and sodium lauryl ether sulphate, at different pH values are measured. By utilizing optical coherence tomography (OCT) and infrared (IR) spectroscopy we have directly measured physical changes in SC proteins and lipids. Our results indicate that SC swelling, which reflects alterations to SC structural proteins, is increased significantly at pH 10, compared to pH 4 and 6.5. The transition temperature (Tm) of SC lipids is found to increase at pH 10, compared to pH 4 and 6.5, suggesting a more rigid SC lipid matrix. Surfactants cause a further increase in swelling and lipid rigidity. Some aspects of what these results mean for SC physical properties as well as their implications to potential mechanisms of surfactant‐induced skin irritation are discussed. Résumé Les compositions nettoyantes pour la peau à base d'alkyl carboxylates (savons) ont un potentiel irritant supérieur à celles à base de syndet tensioactifs tels que les alkyl isothionates ou les alkyl ether sulfates. Les facteurs en cause comprennent les différences de potentiel irritant inhérentes aux savons et aux syndet tensioactifs, les modifications de la chimie de la solution de tensioactif dues aux pH, et les effets directs du pH sur les propriétés physiques de la couche cornée (CC). Les travaux antérieurs n'ont pas traité directement l'effet du pH de la solution sur la couche cornée elle‐même et son rôle potentiel dans l'irritation de la peau due à la solution nettoyante. Dans la présente étude on a mesuré les altérations des propriétés de la CC causées par des solutions à pH tamponné et deux tensioactifs fortement ionisables, le dodecyl sulfate de sodium et le lauryl ether sulfate de sodium, à différentes valeurs de pH. En utilisant la tomographie optique (OCT) et la spectr