An Irregular Wave Propagation Model Application to an Open Coastal Area
In this paper the DREAMS_CR_S model for propagation and deformation of random waves (characterized by a directional spectrum) over regions of variable depth is described. It is based on the linear superposition of the wave fields obtained from a monochromatic wave model for several frequency–directi...
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| Veröffentlicht in: | Journal of coastal research 2007-03, Vol.23 (2), p.395-404 |
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| creator | Zózimo, A. C. Fortes, C. J. E. M. Neves, M. G. Ferreira, Óscar Fernandes, J. L. M. |
| description | In this paper the DREAMS_CR_S model for propagation and deformation of random waves (characterized by a directional spectrum) over regions of variable depth is described. It is based on the linear superposition of the wave fields obtained from a monochromatic wave model for several frequency–direction components in which the incident directional spectrum is discretized. The model predicts the effects of refraction, diffraction, shoaling, reflection, and wave breaking. The model was applied to a real case—the Ancão Inlet at Ria Formosa, in Algarve (Portugal). Incident wave model conditions were chosen from measurements by a directional buoy, deployed over the seabed at −25 m depth below chart datum. The results illustrate that the model without breaking is working well and can be applied to areas with complex bathymetry. When breaking is taken into account, the results are not very accurate. The wave-breaking iterative process and the estimation of the breaking point used in the model have to be improved. |
| doi_str_mv | 10.2112/04-0192.1 |
| format | Article |
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C. ; Fortes, C. J. E. M. ; Neves, M. G. ; Ferreira, Óscar ; Fernandes, J. L. M.</creator><creatorcontrib>Zózimo, A. C. ; Fortes, C. J. E. M. ; Neves, M. G. ; Ferreira, Óscar ; Fernandes, J. L. M.</creatorcontrib><description>In this paper the DREAMS_CR_S model for propagation and deformation of random waves (characterized by a directional spectrum) over regions of variable depth is described. It is based on the linear superposition of the wave fields obtained from a monochromatic wave model for several frequency–direction components in which the incident directional spectrum is discretized. The model predicts the effects of refraction, diffraction, shoaling, reflection, and wave breaking. The model was applied to a real case—the Ancão Inlet at Ria Formosa, in Algarve (Portugal). Incident wave model conditions were chosen from measurements by a directional buoy, deployed over the seabed at −25 m depth below chart datum. The results illustrate that the model without breaking is working well and can be applied to areas with complex bathymetry. When breaking is taken into account, the results are not very accurate. The wave-breaking iterative process and the estimation of the breaking point used in the model have to be improved.</description><identifier>ISSN: 0749-0208</identifier><identifier>EISSN: 1551-5036</identifier><identifier>DOI: 10.2112/04-0192.1</identifier><language>eng</language><publisher>Fort Lauderdale: Coastal Education and Research Foundation (CERF)</publisher><subject>Ancão Inlet ; Bathymetry ; Boundary conditions ; Buoys ; Coastal zone ; Energy dissipation ; finite element model ; Inlets ; linear superposition method ; mild-slope models ; Modeling ; Ocean floor ; Pressure sensors ; Random waves ; RESEARCH PAPERS ; Sensitivity analysis ; Simulations ; Spectroscopic analysis ; Studies ; wave breaking ; Wave propagation ; Waves</subject><ispartof>Journal of coastal research, 2007-03, Vol.23 (2), p.395-404</ispartof><rights>Coastal Education and Research Foundation</rights><rights>Copyright 2007 The Coastal Education and Research Foundation [CERF]</rights><rights>Copyright Alliance Communications Group, A Division of Allen Press, Inc. 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M.</creatorcontrib><title>An Irregular Wave Propagation Model Application to an Open Coastal Area</title><title>Journal of coastal research</title><description>In this paper the DREAMS_CR_S model for propagation and deformation of random waves (characterized by a directional spectrum) over regions of variable depth is described. It is based on the linear superposition of the wave fields obtained from a monochromatic wave model for several frequency–direction components in which the incident directional spectrum is discretized. The model predicts the effects of refraction, diffraction, shoaling, reflection, and wave breaking. The model was applied to a real case—the Ancão Inlet at Ria Formosa, in Algarve (Portugal). Incident wave model conditions were chosen from measurements by a directional buoy, deployed over the seabed at −25 m depth below chart datum. The results illustrate that the model without breaking is working well and can be applied to areas with complex bathymetry. When breaking is taken into account, the results are not very accurate. The wave-breaking iterative process and the estimation of the breaking point used in the model have to be improved.</description><subject>Ancão Inlet</subject><subject>Bathymetry</subject><subject>Boundary conditions</subject><subject>Buoys</subject><subject>Coastal zone</subject><subject>Energy dissipation</subject><subject>finite element model</subject><subject>Inlets</subject><subject>linear superposition method</subject><subject>mild-slope models</subject><subject>Modeling</subject><subject>Ocean floor</subject><subject>Pressure sensors</subject><subject>Random waves</subject><subject>RESEARCH PAPERS</subject><subject>Sensitivity analysis</subject><subject>Simulations</subject><subject>Spectroscopic analysis</subject><subject>Studies</subject><subject>wave breaking</subject><subject>Wave propagation</subject><subject>Waves</subject><issn>0749-0208</issn><issn>1551-5036</issn><fulltext>true</fulltext><rsrctype>article</rsrctype><creationdate>2007</creationdate><recordtype>article</recordtype><sourceid>ABUWG</sourceid><sourceid>AFKRA</sourceid><sourceid>AZQEC</sourceid><sourceid>BENPR</sourceid><sourceid>CCPQU</sourceid><sourceid>DWQXO</sourceid><sourceid>GNUQQ</sourceid><recordid>eNqF0c1LwzAYBvAgCs7pwbuH4kHx0Pm--Wp6HEPnYDIPiseSttno6JqatIL_vRkVDx7cJYE8P56QvIRcIkwoIr0HHgOmdIJHZIRCYCyAyWMygoSnMVBQp-TM-y0ASsWTEZlPm2jhnNn0tXbRu_400Yuzrd7orrJN9GxLU0fTtq2rYjjpbKSbaNWaJppZ7TsdYmf0OTlZ69qbi599TN4eH15nT_FyNV_Mpss4Z5J2sZK5Kngiw8IVR6oEK5WkxpSQYirztdaFBJ6wguZUI0PKBJYCJec6kRrYmNwMva2zH73xXbarfGHqWjfG9j5jUiAwSA_C8FupUIIfhsA4DTLA6z9wa3vXhNeGMlCJQqUCuhtQ4az3zqyz1lU77b4yhP2dNAOe7SeUYbBXg936zrpfyHnKw6BCfDvEeWVtY_4p-ga0TZRh</recordid><startdate>200703</startdate><enddate>200703</enddate><creator>Zózimo, A. 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C.</au><au>Fortes, C. J. E. M.</au><au>Neves, M. G.</au><au>Ferreira, Óscar</au><au>Fernandes, J. L. M.</au><format>journal</format><genre>article</genre><ristype>JOUR</ristype><atitle>An Irregular Wave Propagation Model Application to an Open Coastal Area</atitle><jtitle>Journal of coastal research</jtitle><date>2007-03</date><risdate>2007</risdate><volume>23</volume><issue>2</issue><spage>395</spage><epage>404</epage><pages>395-404</pages><issn>0749-0208</issn><eissn>1551-5036</eissn><abstract>In this paper the DREAMS_CR_S model for propagation and deformation of random waves (characterized by a directional spectrum) over regions of variable depth is described. It is based on the linear superposition of the wave fields obtained from a monochromatic wave model for several frequency–direction components in which the incident directional spectrum is discretized. The model predicts the effects of refraction, diffraction, shoaling, reflection, and wave breaking. 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| subjects | Ancão Inlet Bathymetry Boundary conditions Buoys Coastal zone Energy dissipation finite element model Inlets linear superposition method mild-slope models Modeling Ocean floor Pressure sensors Random waves RESEARCH PAPERS Sensitivity analysis Simulations Spectroscopic analysis Studies wave breaking Wave propagation Waves |
| title | An Irregular Wave Propagation Model Application to an Open Coastal Area |
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