Application of a Cross-Shore Profile Evolution Model to Barred Beaches
A cross-shore profile evolution model, Uniform Beach Sediment Transport-Time-Averaged Cross-Shore (UNIBEST-TC), is used in the present study. The model was developed at WL/Delft hydraulic laboratory in the Netherlands and comprises a conglomerate of submodels representing identified processes of cro...
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| Veröffentlicht in: | Journal of coastal research 2006-05, Vol.22 (3), p.645-663 |
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| description | A cross-shore profile evolution model, Uniform Beach Sediment Transport-Time-Averaged Cross-Shore (UNIBEST-TC), is used in the present study. The model was developed at WL/Delft hydraulic laboratory in the Netherlands and comprises a conglomerate of submodels representing identified processes of cross-shore sediment transport. Validation of UNIBEST-TC was carried out using the collected field data at the Egmond site in the Netherlands and at the Duck site in the US. The model is capable of predicting wave height and wave direction for both sites (Egmond site and Duck site). The prediction of long-shore current is reasonable for the Egmond site, but it is unsatisfactory for the Duck site. The difference between the measured and the predicted values for long-shore current and cross-shore current is partly due to the difference between the measured values, which are at a certain depth, and the predicted values that are depth-averaged velocity. Beside that, the turbulence in the breaker zone leads to errors in the measurements, which could be another factor. It is shown in the present study that on relative small scales, opposite morphological behavior is present. Therefore, morphodynamic profile modeling requires a representative characteristic bottom profile. To achieve a qualitative data for the calibration of the model, it is suggested that field measurements should include error ranges. Furthermore, the effect of small variations of the water depth on the processing of the signals should also be taken into account. |
| doi_str_mv | 10.2112/03-0096.1 |
| format | Article |
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K.</creator><creatorcontrib>Elsayed, Mohamed A. K.</creatorcontrib><description>A cross-shore profile evolution model, Uniform Beach Sediment Transport-Time-Averaged Cross-Shore (UNIBEST-TC), is used in the present study. The model was developed at WL/Delft hydraulic laboratory in the Netherlands and comprises a conglomerate of submodels representing identified processes of cross-shore sediment transport. Validation of UNIBEST-TC was carried out using the collected field data at the Egmond site in the Netherlands and at the Duck site in the US. The model is capable of predicting wave height and wave direction for both sites (Egmond site and Duck site). The prediction of long-shore current is reasonable for the Egmond site, but it is unsatisfactory for the Duck site. The difference between the measured and the predicted values for long-shore current and cross-shore current is partly due to the difference between the measured values, which are at a certain depth, and the predicted values that are depth-averaged velocity. Beside that, the turbulence in the breaker zone leads to errors in the measurements, which could be another factor. It is shown in the present study that on relative small scales, opposite morphological behavior is present. Therefore, morphodynamic profile modeling requires a representative characteristic bottom profile. To achieve a qualitative data for the calibration of the model, it is suggested that field measurements should include error ranges. Furthermore, the effect of small variations of the water depth on the processing of the signals should also be taken into account.</description><identifier>ISSN: 0749-0208</identifier><identifier>EISSN: 1551-5036</identifier><identifier>DOI: 10.2112/03-0096.1</identifier><identifier>CODEN: JCRSEK</identifier><language>eng</language><publisher>Lawrence, KS: Coastal Education and Research Foundation (CERF)</publisher><subject>Aquatic birds ; Beaches ; Coastal currents ; Coastal engineering ; cross-shore current ; Earth sciences ; Earth, ocean, space ; Exact sciences and technology ; Fluid dynamics ; Geomorphology, landform evolution ; Hydrodynamics ; long-shore current ; Marine ; Marine and continental quaternary ; Modeling ; morphology ; Ocean currents ; Orbital velocity ; Parametric models ; RESEARCH PAPERS ; Sediment transport ; Shear stress ; Shorelines ; Surface waves ; Surficial geology ; Water depth ; Wave direction ; Wave height ; Wave velocity ; Waves</subject><ispartof>Journal of coastal research, 2006-05, Vol.22 (3), p.645-663</ispartof><rights>Coastal Education and Research Foundation</rights><rights>Copyright 2006 The Coastal Education & Research Foundation [CERF]</rights><rights>2006 INIST-CNRS</rights><rights>Copyright Alliance Communications Group, A Division of Allen Press, Inc. 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K.</creatorcontrib><title>Application of a Cross-Shore Profile Evolution Model to Barred Beaches</title><title>Journal of coastal research</title><description>A cross-shore profile evolution model, Uniform Beach Sediment Transport-Time-Averaged Cross-Shore (UNIBEST-TC), is used in the present study. The model was developed at WL/Delft hydraulic laboratory in the Netherlands and comprises a conglomerate of submodels representing identified processes of cross-shore sediment transport. Validation of UNIBEST-TC was carried out using the collected field data at the Egmond site in the Netherlands and at the Duck site in the US. The model is capable of predicting wave height and wave direction for both sites (Egmond site and Duck site). The prediction of long-shore current is reasonable for the Egmond site, but it is unsatisfactory for the Duck site. The difference between the measured and the predicted values for long-shore current and cross-shore current is partly due to the difference between the measured values, which are at a certain depth, and the predicted values that are depth-averaged velocity. Beside that, the turbulence in the breaker zone leads to errors in the measurements, which could be another factor. It is shown in the present study that on relative small scales, opposite morphological behavior is present. Therefore, morphodynamic profile modeling requires a representative characteristic bottom profile. To achieve a qualitative data for the calibration of the model, it is suggested that field measurements should include error ranges. Furthermore, the effect of small variations of the water depth on the processing of the signals should also be taken into account.</description><subject>Aquatic birds</subject><subject>Beaches</subject><subject>Coastal currents</subject><subject>Coastal engineering</subject><subject>cross-shore current</subject><subject>Earth sciences</subject><subject>Earth, ocean, space</subject><subject>Exact sciences and technology</subject><subject>Fluid dynamics</subject><subject>Geomorphology, landform evolution</subject><subject>Hydrodynamics</subject><subject>long-shore current</subject><subject>Marine</subject><subject>Marine and continental quaternary</subject><subject>Modeling</subject><subject>morphology</subject><subject>Ocean currents</subject><subject>Orbital velocity</subject><subject>Parametric models</subject><subject>RESEARCH PAPERS</subject><subject>Sediment transport</subject><subject>Shear stress</subject><subject>Shorelines</subject><subject>Surface waves</subject><subject>Surficial geology</subject><subject>Water depth</subject><subject>Wave direction</subject><subject>Wave height</subject><subject>Wave velocity</subject><subject>Waves</subject><issn>0749-0208</issn><issn>1551-5036</issn><fulltext>true</fulltext><rsrctype>article</rsrctype><creationdate>2006</creationdate><recordtype>article</recordtype><sourceid>ABUWG</sourceid><sourceid>AFKRA</sourceid><sourceid>AZQEC</sourceid><sourceid>BENPR</sourceid><sourceid>CCPQU</sourceid><sourceid>DWQXO</sourceid><sourceid>GNUQQ</sourceid><recordid>eNqFkc1LxDAQxYMouH4cvHsogoqH6kyS5uO4Ln6BoqCey5hNsUtt1qQr-N_buqLgQU9zeL-8N_PC2A7CMUfkJyByAKuOcYWNsCgwL0CoVTYCLW0OHMw620hpBoDKSD1i5-P5vKkddXVos1BllE1iSCm_fw7RZ3cxVHXjs7O30Cw-kZsw9U3WheyUYvTT7NSTe_Zpi61V1CS__TU32eP52cPkMr--vbiajK9zkkXR5eiwskYoV5GaOlto0B4A-k0scaq0EsQtejk1EgSi8VxpEk6Q04Ib9SQ22cHSdx7D68Knrnypk_NNQ60Pi1QKhQVohH_BvizDJah_QdRcFVIO4N4vcBYWse2v7c3AWK7NEHu0hNzQYvRVOY_1C8X3EmHI5CWIcvigEnt2_8uQkqOmitS6Ov080NpaNLrndpfcLHUhfutSQN-R7eXDpfxUh9D6PwI_AD-PoUk</recordid><startdate>20060501</startdate><enddate>20060501</enddate><creator>Elsayed, Mohamed A. 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K.</au><format>journal</format><genre>article</genre><ristype>JOUR</ristype><atitle>Application of a Cross-Shore Profile Evolution Model to Barred Beaches</atitle><jtitle>Journal of coastal research</jtitle><date>2006-05-01</date><risdate>2006</risdate><volume>22</volume><issue>3</issue><spage>645</spage><epage>663</epage><pages>645-663</pages><issn>0749-0208</issn><eissn>1551-5036</eissn><coden>JCRSEK</coden><abstract>A cross-shore profile evolution model, Uniform Beach Sediment Transport-Time-Averaged Cross-Shore (UNIBEST-TC), is used in the present study. The model was developed at WL/Delft hydraulic laboratory in the Netherlands and comprises a conglomerate of submodels representing identified processes of cross-shore sediment transport. Validation of UNIBEST-TC was carried out using the collected field data at the Egmond site in the Netherlands and at the Duck site in the US. The model is capable of predicting wave height and wave direction for both sites (Egmond site and Duck site). The prediction of long-shore current is reasonable for the Egmond site, but it is unsatisfactory for the Duck site. The difference between the measured and the predicted values for long-shore current and cross-shore current is partly due to the difference between the measured values, which are at a certain depth, and the predicted values that are depth-averaged velocity. Beside that, the turbulence in the breaker zone leads to errors in the measurements, which could be another factor. It is shown in the present study that on relative small scales, opposite morphological behavior is present. Therefore, morphodynamic profile modeling requires a representative characteristic bottom profile. To achieve a qualitative data for the calibration of the model, it is suggested that field measurements should include error ranges. Furthermore, the effect of small variations of the water depth on the processing of the signals should also be taken into account.</abstract><cop>Lawrence, KS</cop><pub>Coastal Education and Research Foundation (CERF)</pub><doi>10.2112/03-0096.1</doi><tpages>19</tpages></addata></record> |
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| ispartof | Journal of coastal research, 2006-05, Vol.22 (3), p.645-663 |
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| source | BioOne Complete; JSTOR Archive Collection A-Z Listing |
| subjects | Aquatic birds Beaches Coastal currents Coastal engineering cross-shore current Earth sciences Earth, ocean, space Exact sciences and technology Fluid dynamics Geomorphology, landform evolution Hydrodynamics long-shore current Marine Marine and continental quaternary Modeling morphology Ocean currents Orbital velocity Parametric models RESEARCH PAPERS Sediment transport Shear stress Shorelines Surface waves Surficial geology Water depth Wave direction Wave height Wave velocity Waves |
| title | Application of a Cross-Shore Profile Evolution Model to Barred Beaches |
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