Experimental study of the transformation of bound long waves over a mild slope with ambient currents

The effect of currents on the variation of cross-shore bound long waves forced by bichromatic waves over a plane slope was investigated in the laboratory. In still water the growth rate of the shoaling bound long waves over the slope is proportional to h – 5/2 ( h is still-water depth). It was found...

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Veröffentlicht in:Coastal engineering (Amsterdam) 2009-10, Vol.56 (10), p.1035-1042
Hauptverfasser: Dong, Guohai, Ma, Xiaozhou, Xu, Jianwu, Ma, Yuxiang, Wang, Gang
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container_issue 10
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container_title Coastal engineering (Amsterdam)
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creator Dong, Guohai
Ma, Xiaozhou
Xu, Jianwu
Ma, Yuxiang
Wang, Gang
description The effect of currents on the variation of cross-shore bound long waves forced by bichromatic waves over a plane slope was investigated in the laboratory. In still water the growth rate of the shoaling bound long waves over the slope is proportional to h – 5/2 ( h is still-water depth). It was found that the opposing current makes the amplitudes of the bound long waves greater than those of still water for all cases. However, the amplitudes of bound long waves in a following current are reduced in the weakly modulated cases but are enhanced in the fully modulated case.
doi_str_mv 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2009.06.010
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subjects Bound long waves
Earth sciences
Earth, ocean, space
Engineering and environment geology. Geothermics
Engineering geology
Exact sciences and technology
Geomorphology, landform evolution
Marine
Marine and continental quaternary
Nonlinear interaction
Surficial geology
Wave shoaling
Wave–current interaction
title Experimental study of the transformation of bound long waves over a mild slope with ambient currents
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